The Cinque Terre: Five Jewels Along the Coast

I have always heard great things about this location and now more and more people seem to know about it, but that doesn’t mean that it is a tourist trap. The Cinque Terre are five isolated villages along the Italian Liguria between Genoa and Pisa, each one as unique as the next but sharing in craggy seclusion in the Mediterranean sun. During the peak vacation months the small towns swell to bursting and the beaches and restaurants are full. However I discovered on a European adventure with my wife that a visit during the early fall is very rewarding, especially if you live in a colder climate. September and October are plenty hot and sunny for the beach and more importantly the villages are left to the villagers.

As soon as stepping off the Genoa train into Monterosso al Mare we were greeted with a “Ciao” by a young man offering a variety of apartments for rent and very affordable. Over the next few days we became members of the community, buying our food at a small stand and cooking with home pressed olive oil that was defies description. In fact it was easy to pack on the pounds trying all the specialties that were put before us day an night. Fortunately for our waistlines the Cinque Terre are linked together by a dramatic cliffside trail that was once the only way to reach these villages. So after a small Italian breakfast of cappuccino we prepared to venture south toward the next village, Vernazza.

For those who are not looking for a strenuous hiking route, it is recommended that you follow the trail from the most southerly town Riomaggorie. But we were ready for an uphill battle in the sun to shed off some pounds – or at least justify the constant eating. Part of the trail is a vertical stair through family vine terraces that make use of every available piece of soil in this craggy landscape. The path eventually starts to slope down toward Vernazza and it’s sparkling harbor. Vernazza is a great spot for dinner when not hiking or just to visit once the sun goes down but make sure you visit the town before you move on – the narrow alleyways are fun to explore. Beyond Vernazza the path winds upwards toward the landlocked village of Corniglia.

Corniglia sits on a promontory that juts away from the olive groves and out into the ocean but has no sea access. Instead its cliffs and porches give a spectacular view of the other villages and the Italian coast. There is a small square that is quiet and cool to rest in as well as an excellent gelato stand close-by. Once again make sure you explore each nook and cranny before venturing on towards Manarola.

This village is located by the sea but its harbor is small and rocky. This is the perfect place to stop for a drink and perhaps a snack, as there are a few small cafes on the main avenue. From here the pathway toward the final town is easier and paved. It is call the Via dell amore and is definitely romantic when the sun is close to setting. The path takes about thirty minutes and arrives in charming Riomagiore, the final village. Venturing in this village is easy as it is more laid out like a town with a broad avenue and footpaths that follow the natural hillside. It is a very popular place to find accommodations and nearly all of the buildings have rooms to rent.
If you are staying in one of the other villages it is very easy to get back by using the train as it visits all five. After visiting the entire area, you will have probably already made up your mind about where to eat for dinner and definitely worked up an appetite. Remember the vineyards and olive groves along the path as you sample the local wines and their world famous pesto. As you dine you just may be able to see the anchovy fishermen hauling their nets after dark.