The Bells of Lubeck, Germany
Lubeck is an ancient city in the north, once known as the Queen of the Hanseatic League. I had a vague recollection about it from my freshman level European history class. In a nutshell, the league was a group of cities who joined together to protect transport routes. The idea proved highly successful and Lubeck prospered.
Clinging firmly to her earlier grandeur, Lubeck is now an UNESCO World Heritage site – no small accomplishment. Hundreds of historic structures figured into the decision to bestow the rare UNESCO distinction. Dates from the 14th and 15th century are bandied about often when one visits LubeckâÂ?¦just my kind of place!
The Old Town is compact, completely ringed by water and easy to visit on foot. The symbol of the City, the Medieval Holsentor or city gate is impressive, even if slightly off-kilter. Swampy soil beneath is to blame and a battle hard to fight.
In 1863, officials nearly voted to demolish the gate. I’d like to say a heartfelt thanks to those far-sighted individuals who opposed such drastic action. Go inside to learn about the city’s illustrious past.
Lubeck has another claim to fame everyone can appreciate history-lovers or not, a sugary treat called marzipan. Johann Niederegger established his candy company in 1806 and it flourishes still. I was told visitors from other parts of Europe wouldn’t dream of leaving Lubeck without shopping at Niederegger.
A concoction of almonds and sugar, blended then roasted marzipan is like playdoh you eat. For me, some varieties are too sweet, but this recipe was just right. Marzipan can be hand-shaped or molded into any form you can imagine. The objects can be colored to make them more life-like. I saw marzipan cell phones, realistic red apples, miniature sports cars, dogs and many more.
The ground floor of Niederegger houses their busy retail shop, while the upper floors contain a salon and cafe. The salon features an exhibit about the company. By far the most striking object in the display has to be the twelve life-size figurines made of candy! Johann Niederegger, sporting a classic top hat and a rather serious expression has an honored place in the center. Considering his success in business, he should be smiling and holding a wad of cash.
From that first rainy Sunday of my arrival, I was very taken with St. Mary’s Church. In fact I went back for a second, more thorough look. Construction began in 1250 and was finished by 1350. When you visit, don’t miss the fallen bells.
According to my guide, the British bombed Lubeck in March of 1942, in retaliation for the bombing of Coventry, England. The bells in the south tower were one casualty. They came crashing down, in what must have been a tremendous noise.
The bells lie exactly where they landed on that night, in a poignant broken heap. The extreme weight left the pieces partially embedded in the stone floor. Meant as a memorial, the silent bells got me all teary-eyed and choked up, exactly as intended. You can’t ask for a better tribute than that.
I spent one day following the “Nobel” trail in Lubeck. Buddenbrook House highlights the life and works of Thomas Mann and his creative, if somewhat troubled family. Named for one of his most popular books, the splendid house in Lubeck was once the home of Mann’s grandparents. Next came The Gunter Grass House which showcases the artist and writer Gunter Grass. Both men won the Nobel Prize for Literature.
Unique to Lubeck is the Puppet Museum, featuring hundreds of puppets from one man’s private collection.
On display are puppets from Bali, China, Africa, and England, among others. Since one of my best friends is a puppet lover, I had to spend an hour gazing upon these creations. Most could be called antiques, with scuffed little shoes and faded clothing. Clearly, they had lived long productive lives on the stage. I found their well worn look quite endearing. Better a used puppet, than a pristine, unloved one!
Several times I stopped to wonder how many people had laughed at the antics of a 100-year old clown marionette or at a wickedly grinning red devil. Some childhood activities go out of style, but puppets are timeless.
Thinking about a visit to Lubeck? Offering a convenient location and top-notch service, I’d suggest the Movenpick hotel near the famous Hostentor.
