Banff Springs Hotel
Originally known as Siding 29, Banff was renamed in 1885 by Lord Mount Stephen because it reminded him of his homeland, Banffshire, Scotland. The Canadian Pacific Railway completed the original Banff Springs Hotel in 1888. The wooden hotel cost $250,000 and had 250 beds. It was the largest hotel in world.
The wooden hotel was destroyed by fire in 1928. The rebuilt, imposing stone and brick hotel has 829 unique rooms (no one design is repeated more than 3 times) with a dominating view of the town and valley below. The hotel is filled with gems. Doors still have message clips on them, although phones are now used. There are fossils in the limestone staircases. The huge bronze doors leading into the Alhambra dining room cost $36,000 when they were installed in the 1930s. A recent appraisal valued them at $1.3 million. Also in the 1930s, craftsmen were sent to England to take precise measurements of original antiques so that they could return and duplicate these antiques for all the furniture you now see in the hotel.
The hotel is popular with individuals, tour groups, and conferences. About 30 percent of its 300,000 annual guests are Japanese. Almost half of the rooms have twin beds to accommodate conference guests. Of course, Queen Elizabeth II did not stay in a twin during her 1959 visit. She stayed in the Vice Regal Wing. You too can stay here although you might find it a bit cozy and the view not up to a monarch’s standard. You might prefer, as did Prince Phillip in 1986, to stay in the Presidential Suite which has 8 bedrooms, a library, a grand piano, pool, and Jacuzzi. Most of the other rooms vary between $200 and $500 depending on the time of year.
“The Springs” (as the hotel is called by locals and repeat clients) has been the spot in Banff for the rich and powerful. Edward VII, who owned a ranch in Alberta, frequently stayed at the hotel for long periods. In 1939, King George the VI and Queen Elizabeth had the entire hotel to themselves-and their entourage.
Marilyn Monroe broke her leg while filming The River of No Return with Robert Mitchum. Lucky bellboys got to push her around in a wheelchair after the accident on the Bow River. The hotel has welcomed Mickey Rooney, Cole Porter, Ginger Rodgers, Henry Fonda, Helen Keller, Lee Marvin, Arnold Swarzenegger, Brook Shields-well you get the idea. Everyone has stayed here. Benny Goodman wanted to stay at the hotel but needed a place to land his plane. The hotel had a landing strip cleared and thus was born the present Banff airport. And you thought today’s rock stars had outrageous demands.
A Maharaja arrived one summer in the company of several women. He demanded two double beds be lashed together. The staff wondered with amusement at the necessity of this until they learned the bed was for the sole use of the Maharaja. The women were sleeping on the floor.
The hotel has put in a sushi bar and a 24-hour espresso/sandwich shop. The sushi bar is no doubt in response to the large volume of Japanese who stay at The Banff Springs Hotel. The coffee shop has a spectacular view of the valley but it is a bit noisy and crowded and not conducive to serene contemplation. Of course, the huge hotel has plenty of quiet spots with wondrous views. It even has a library stocked with some first editions.
My favorite thing about The Banff Springs Hotel is that the 35 shops stay open till about 11 p.m. With all the outdoor activity and attractions during the day, the hotel has found the guests appreciate this consideration. The many bars, including a wine bar, are cozy and nicely designed. Interestingly, an odd quirk of provincial law requires you to be a guest at the hotel to get a drink at the bar on Sunday. Since the bars in town are closed on Sundays, be forewarned.
The Banff Springs Hotel is equipped as one might expect any 5-star resort. It has large indoor and outdoor pools, a Jacuzzi, sauna, tanning beds, five all-weather tennis courts, a championship golf course, nightclub, and more. It has immediate access to summer and winter sports including the ski resorts from the 1988 Olympics. Best of all, it is in the middle of the fantastic beauty of the Canadian Rockies.
I must warn you that Banff has an intoxicating effect. You will want to stay-forever. I did. The serenity, the beauty, the friendly people take hold of you. There are still plenty of activities with the various tourist amenities. But it is not Disneyland. I discussed these feelings with a guide at the Whyte Museum, the home of a local artist. She said, “People come here and fall in love with the peace and with the clarity. The world fades. The desire for money and possessions disappears. Life is enjoyed here.”
I walked out of the museum with a sixties flower-child glow. I almost threw away my American Express Gold Card. Then I saw a brightly-colored brochure. I shook the glaze from my eyes and focused on the words-West Edmonton Mall. It seems this one mall has over 800 shops, 100 restaurants, 20 movie theaters, 13 nightclubs, eight banks, 17,000 employees, an indoor beach, and more submarines than the Canadian Navy. Can you say, “Charge it,”? I thought you could.
