How to Install Chain Link Fencing
Start the project by measuring the length and width of the space to be fenced. This number will give you the amount of fencing supplies that you need to purchase. A good way to be sure to buy the proper amount is to draw the space on paper. Try to get close to a scale drawing. For a smaller yard, let about a quarter of an inch represent one foot of length. If the yard is large, you may need to back up to an eighth or a tenth of an inch per foot.
Once you have the drawing, you can begin to work on where to set the posts and any gates that you want to install. Every place that the fence will have a corner, you will need to have a corner post. These posts are larger in diameter than the line posts and often are slightly heavier construction. You will also need a corner post on either side of any gate that you install. If the fence will abut your house or a building, you will need a corner post to be set against the wall of the building to use as a fence terminus.
Along the straight runs of fence between the corner posts, you will need to sketch in the positions of the line posts. A good rule of thumb is to put a line post about every eight feet. However, to keep from having short runs from the last line post to a corner post, you may need to adjust this distance a little. You can set the line posts at any distance between about 7 feet and 9 feet apart. Since the top rails are 10 feet long, these distances will still let you assemble the fence without a problem. So, try to space them somewhat evenly along each side.
You can actually use the yard itself as your model, but I prefer a sketch. Once the sketch is completed, count the line and corner posts and record the number of each that you will need. Each post will need the appropriate type of cap. Corner posts will have caps with one and two openings for the top rails to be inserted. If the it is used on a corner, you will need the two openings. If it is a terminus at a gate or building, get the one opening type of cap. Line posts all use the same type of cap that allows the top rail to pass through the cap along is route.
At each corner and terminus, you will need a stretching bar. This is a flat piece of metal about �¾ of an inch wide and 3 or 4 feet long. You anchor it to the end of the fence fabric to give you something to pull against to put tension on the fence to make it nice and tight. For corners, you will need two bars. End or terminus posts will need one bar.
Doing one side at a time, divide the length by 10 feet or the length of the top rails that you intend to purchase if that length is different. Round the number up and that is the number of rail sections that you will need to purchase for that side. For example, if the side is 45 feet. You will get 4.5 when you divide. So, buy 5 rail segments. You may get an opportunity to cheat and use both ends of a cut rail, but do not plan on it. If you have extra at the end of the project, you can return them. When you have done this for each side, add up the total number of rails needed.
Each post will require about 4 or 5 ties to hold the fence in place. These usually come in packaged in bundles. Do the math to determine how many you will need and buy enough bundles to exceed that number. You may want to buy wire to stretch along the fence about 2 or 3 inches from the ground. This will help keep dogs and small children from escaping by pushing under the fence. This wire comes in rolls. It is optional whether you use it or not. If you choose to install it, buy about 10 or 15 feet more than you expect to need to give you enough for tying off the ends as you stretch the fence.
The fence fabric comes in rolls that may be 50 feet up to 200 feet or so in length. Try to buy as close to the right amount to go around your yard as possible. You can weave this fence together when rolls have to be joined. You can remove a wire to allow the fence to be made to any shorter length. These are both easy operations. If you are worried about how to do this, the best answer is to have the people at the store give you a quick lesson. It will only require about 5 minutes if they know what they are doing.
At some point, you will need to decide on what height that you want you new fence to be. Chain link fabric comes in heights from 3 feet up to about 8 or 10 feet. This will be important to know when you buy both the fencing and the posts. You need longer posts for taller fencing. For really short fencing, you will either have to bury more of the post in the ground or cut it off a little. While you are buying up your supplies, do not forget to get your gates. There are several varieties available. Look them over and buy what you want and need.
You will need to buy enough concrete mix with gravel in it to have about one bag for every four posts. If you choose not to set the line posts in concrete, do not make this mistake on the corners and ends. You need the concrete to give your posts the support to handle the pressure of the fence pulling against it. Also, it is a good idea to pick up a ball of twine to stretch along the fence pathway to use as a guide to keep your posts in line while you are installing them.
If you do not have any scrap wood or stakes, you may want to buy something to use for that purpose, too. You need one for each corner. While you are spending money, buy a can of marker paint to use for marking the positions of your posts. This will help avoid mistakes when you are digging or drilling post holes.
At last, you are ready to call those friends to the fence installation party and begin the actual process. Hopefully, you have already checked with any owners of adjoining property to make sure that you agree on the precise property boundaries. Some people are not very understanding if you begin to fence off part of their land.
Once you have this boundary clearly defined, drive a stake into the ground at each corner. Tap a nail or put a screw in the top of each stake. Leave them protruding about one inch above the top of the stake to attach a string. These stakes need to be set in a way that will allow you to stretch your string along the outside edge of the fence. Stretch the string from stake to stake until the entire yard is enclosed within the string barrier.
Using a measuring tape, work your way along the string marking each post position beginning at the corner or end until each side has all post positions clearly marked. Leave the string in place if possible as you dig the post holes. If you have a large number of posts because your yard is very large, you may want to consider either renting a gas powered auger or finding someone who has a tractor with a drill attachment. Either of these will save you hours on a large project.
Your post holes should be about 30 inches or so deep. Try not to go less than 24 inches. Once all of the holes are ready, begin to set the posts in place. You can drop all of them into the holes. You can mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow, tub, or on a piece of plywood. Use a level to get your posts nice and upright. I prefer to put a little dirt in the bottom of the hole to hold the post in place. About six inches will do it usually.
Carefully shovel the concrete into the hole. I like to fill the hole up to the top. Some people prefer to leave it down about 3 or 4 inches and cover it with dirt. It is your call. Just make sure that post is straight up and down everyway that you look at it before you move to the next post. Also, the post should gently touch the string. They should also be the same height about the surface of the ground. The posts tops will follow the terrain.
You can cover the concrete immediately if you plan to cover it. It will still harden just fine. Repeat this process until every hole is filled. You may need to get extra concrete if your holes have a large diameter. When all of the posts are set, you are done for this day. The concrete needs to harden at least overnight. Longer is better.
After allowing enough time for the concrete to harden around the posts, it is time to stretch the fence. Remove the string and pull up the stakes. Put the caps on the posts and begin at one corner or end and thread the top rail from end to end until you have reached the next corner post. Cut the final piece to the right length and insert into the final cap. Repeat this process until all of the rail is installed. Stretch the bottom wire from corner to corner. When it is all in place, wire it to the line posts with the tie wires.
Get a roll of the fence fabric. Lace a stretching bar into the fabric of the fence and wire it to your first end or corner post. It does not matter where you begin. Each side will be its own project. Do not install the gates until after the fence is in place.
Carefully unroll the fence along the outside of the posts until you reach the next corner or end. Lap the fence around the post. Put another stretch bar into the fence a few inches from the post. Do whatever you can to stretch the fence tight. If you can get a truck bumper close enough, use it to pull on the fence. A pulley system is another option if you have something to anchor onto. You may just have to pull it the best you can. When it is as tight as you want it, wire it in place before releasing the tension. Remove the wire just beyond the stretching bar to leave just the right amount of fabric in place.
You will need to repeat this process for each side of the yard until all of the chain link is in place. When all of the fabric is in place, attach it to the line posts, top rails, and bottom wire with ties. Be generous in this so that fence is as secure as possible. The bottom of the fence should be touching the ground but not bending against it. Some people prefer to trench a little to bury the bottom of the fence, but this really is not necessary.
When all of the fence is in place, follow the directions for installing the gates. You should get directions with the packet of hardware that comes with the gate. This will include the clamps to attach the gate to the corner or end post. It will also have a latch that is attached to the gate so that it can be kept shut. When the gates are installed, make sure to appropriately thank your help for their work. Get out the grill and cook up some hamburgers or steaks and celebrate your good job.
