A Guide to Movie Poster Collecting
Movie poster collecting is part of a larger hobby of movie paper collecting, which is basically any paper (or paper-like) material produced by studios to promote a movie in a theater. Posters are only part of the many collecting options. To really get into the hobby, one must learn the common terms and abbreviations used.
A “one sheet” poster (abbreviation: OS) is the general term for the posters you see hanging outside of theaters today. They generally measure 27″ X 40″ and are usually printed on a thick paper stock. Beginning in the late eighties to early nineties, many posters had the artwork printed in reverse on the back, known as “double-sided” (DS) posters. This is done for posters that hang in lighted poster frames, so when the light shines through, the double image makes the poster appear more vivid. Most posters shipped to theaters today come rolled in a tube. Up until the mid-1980s, studios often sent posters folded to theaters. This is why you see most older posters have “fold lines” as this was usually the only way they were available. In a few rare instances, older posters can be found rolled, but it is very uncommon.
“Lobby card” (LC) sets are smaller posters, usually 11″ X 14″ that are printed on heavy card stock. They usually came in sets of eight and consisted of a title card, usually the poster artwork and credits, and seven scene cards, featuring stills from the film. Lobby cards were issued by studios until about the late 1980s. They are rarely made today, and then usually for foreign theaters. Lobby cards are sometimes more affordable options for collectors who cannot afford the more expensive “one sheets” of older, classic films.
A “window card” (WC) is also a smaller version of a poster, about 22″ X 14″ and also on heavy card stock. They are called “window cards” because they were meant to be hung in the window of the box office, and have a blank area that was often used by the theater to write in times and dates. Ideally, you want to buy a window card with the “write in” area intact (even if it was written on), as they were often cut off by early collectors. “Jumbo” version of window cards, measuring 22″ X 28″ were made but are rare. Like lobby cards, window cards are no longer produced.
A “half-sheet” (HS) poster, often measures 22″ X 28″ or about half the size of a one-sheet. Since most theaters of the 1900s were one or two screens, display space was at a minimum, so lobby card, half-sheets, and window cards helped save that space. As these were mostly used pre-1980s, half-sheets were almost always folded.
Inserts (INS) were again smaller posters that usually measured 36″ X 14″ and folded. Collecting inserts, half-sheets, and window cards is so appealing because they often have different, and sometimes better, artwork than their one-sheet counterparts.
Prior to the 1980s, studios often created large poster displays made up of three, six or even twenty four (billboard size) one sheets. The posters had to be pieced together to display the full image. Hence, these displays are called 3-sheets, 6-sheets, and 24-sheets, and are very rare, 24-sheets in particular, since they hung outdoors on billboards. However, they occasionally do pop up, often because they were stored away and never used. Today, we usually refer to these large displays as banners, and are often made out of vinyl or a similar sturdy material. Poster collecting can become an expensive hobby, so collectors often limit themselves to collecting certain movie genres or certain sizes or particular eras.
When you are ready to start collecting posters, there are several places to find them. There are a number of movie memorabilia dealers around the country that sell older and newer posters. You could go straight to the source and get posters directly from the theater, if you find someone there willing to give them to you. Often, movie studios overprint their movie posters and give away the extras to promote the movie at collectibles shows and conventions or at large public events. Sometimes, studios sell them online with other movie merchandise. Auction sites like ebay and Yahoo are a great source, but you must be wary of condition and authenticity (for expensive posters) so buy from someone you trust.
Condition of a poster is very important to collectors. Older posters are always going to have some wear or yellowing of white paper stock, but you also want to be wary of tears, wrinkles, pinholes, or anything else that may affect the value. Fold lines in older posters usually do not affect value, as they are expected, but be aware of folds that may have separated the poster over time. Modern posters are often shipped rolled and mint to theaters, so you should have a much easier time finding newer posters in mint condition. Many collectors and dealers use the terms mint, near mint, excellent, good, fair, and so on to describe condition, but there is no standard as to what constitutes a poster in “excellent” condition. A 1956 “Forbidden Planet” poster that may have faded over time and have some edge wear may be “excellent” to one person, but may only rate “very good” to another. Rather than going by a general term like “excellent condition,” investigate a poster (if you can see it in person) or ask for a detailed description of condition if you are buying online or through the mail.
The value of a movie poster can be very subjective, and can be affected by a number of factors. Condition, age, rarity, and the artwork all make a difference. For example, a 1950’s poster of a sci-fi hit like “War of the Worlds” or “Godzilla” in excellent condition could go for thousands of dollars, but a mediocre western with no stars from the same year and same condition could go for $50. In those cases, artwork takes precedence over condition and rarity. Posters, or any movie paper for that matter, for films like “King Kong,” “Frankenstein,” “Star Wars” or even “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” command huge prices because of the appeal of those films. However, for modern movie posters, studios tend to over-produce posters specifically for collectors, and unlike the past, where posters hung for weeks and were either thrown away or sent back to the studio, a lot of modern posters do eventually make it into the hands of collectors. That means there will always be a supply for the demand. Posters for the original “Star Wars” command hundreds, sometimes thousands of dollars, but posters for the new “Star Wars” prequels, which were readily available for purchase direct from LucasFilm’s Fan Club, can be found for fairly reasonable prices. Jon Warren, who publishes a movie poster price guide, also has a website, www.icollectmovieposters.com, with a free price guide. It can make collecting much easier by giving yuo an idea of the true value of a poster, so you do not overpay.
Often, the designs on posters for movies changed. Especially today, you will see multiple posters for a single film, each designed to appeal to a certain niche. Posters released before a movie opens are often called “advances” (ADV). Once a movie is released, designs are usually labled as “Style A” or “Version A” for the first poster, “Style B” or “Version B” for the second, and so on. Prior to home video, when films were re-released to theaters every couple of years, the posters to those re-releases are usually designated with an “R” (for re-release) followed by the year, or “R1975” for example. This is to ensure a poster printed for a 1960’s re-release of “The Wizard of Oz” was not mistaken for an original 1930s poster, which is worth considerably more.
Collectors must also be wary of reprints. Some reprints are authorized copies of old posters and will often have a copyright from the company printing it. If you find a poster from an old movie that looks brand new, chances are you have a reprint. Many reprints of current movie posters are sold in retail stores. These are not official movie posters, and often measure 24″ X 36.” Many novice collectors mistake these “commercial reprints” for the real thing, but as long as you know that current movie posters measure 27″ X 40,” you won’t be misguided. One good way to identify older movie posters as authentic is to look at the bottom for a printer’s mark or NSS number. NSS stands for National Screen Service, who produced and distributed posters until the early 1980s. On each poster bottom edge, NSS would assign a number to each poster, which followed the year. Finding this number stamped at the bottom of a poster is one way to help authenticate the poster.
If you decide to make a major poster purchase, and are unsure if it is authentic, be sure you have return options or consult a reputable poster dealer who may be able to give you insight on your purchase. Visiting these dealers can also be an educational experience. You can learn a lot about posters by looking at other posters of the era.
Once you have purchased a poster, now you have to hang it. A major mistake young collectors make is to hang a poster to a wall with thumb tacks or sticky tack. This causes damage to the poster and could affect the future value. Some craft and hobby stores sell frames large enough for one sheets, but some professional framers can supply frames with UV glass (that prevents ultraviolet rays from damaging the poster) and acid-free backing (devoid of chemicals that could cause yellowing and brittle paper). These frames can be more expensive but can protect a valuable poster. Collectors can also purchase clear plastic sleeves to store posters in until you are ready to hang them. Posters can be stored flat in a box or rolled in a tube to prevent damage and keep out dust and sunlight.
There are many more aspects to the movie poster collecting hobby not covered here. There are a number of books and websites committed to the latest news and trends. There are also magazines and mailing lists that you can subscribe to that have the latest news.
In all, the most important aspect of collecting is to not buy in hopes of future riches, but to collect posters from films you like, or feature artwork you find amazing. A great poster can give your home, office, or home theater just the right atmosphere and mood.
