A Short Walk Through Trier on the Mosel – Germany
Locals joke about it. They say: “Trier is Germany’s largest village”. Everybody knows everybody. Daily life goes smooth in the city where the largest assortment of early Roman edifices outer Rome can be seen. Well, yes! Trier is more than a town. Some have called it “the Heart of Europe” and maybe for a good reason. For the traveler this is a trip back in history in (!) the very heart of Mosel wine county.
Although a town with a very rich past, Trier is far from being “old-fashioned” when it comes to its inhabitants. This can be seen in the lively nightlife and the way these people party in the streets, especially in the summertime when the Altstadtfest (held at the beginning of July) attracts to the Mosel not only the locals, but also public from the surrounding villages and Luxembourg with lots of live concerts, traditional food, wine and beer. Another important outdoors event takes place from the last week of November till shortly before Christmas: the Weinachtmarkt is a delightful opportunity to spend time in the center of the city, close to the Cathedral. The open market is full of life. Little wood houses ornamented with Christmas lights tempt the shoppers with season sweets, bratwurst, gluhwein (boiled wine with sugar, cinnamon and other spices) and gifts such as Christmas candles, silver jewelry, toys and ceramics.
Trier is definitely a city one has to visit by foot. A walk from side to side the old town is a trip back in time: one can almost feel the glory of its past, one can almost taste it. And speaking about taste, right in the middle of the old town, you may feast as in the Roman epoch. The restaurant “Zum Domstein” is not only offering Roman meals on its menu but it is also running in a Roman Palatine which belonged to the Imperator Constantine. It has a pleasant courtyard on the backside that opens to the Cathedral and a lovely terrace in front.
In the vicinity of the restaurant, on the Jacobstrasse, if you are in the mood of something else than Bitburger or Karlsberg type of beer, the Irish Pub may possibly tempt you with Guinness and Kilkenny. The place is always crowded and frequented by American soldiers, as one of the biggest US Air Force bases in Europe is situated not far from Trier. And if you’d like to have a taste of genuine party-life in Trier, the Viehmarktplatz is the right point to stop at. Its bars have nice terraces opened in the summer, and each has a different specific. Their names are suggestive: CafÃ?© Greco (also known as “at Steve’s” – the name of the Greek owner), Barrocco (a nice bar where Fridays the Salsa program attracts many foreigners living in the town), Inflagranty and not farâÂ?¦ Forum – the most popular club in Trier.
Oh yes, we all like to party, but a town like Trier ought to have a special attention, due to its real values. UNESCO declared the Roman Monuments, Cathedral of St Peter and the Church of Our Lady in 1986 part of the world heritage.
Porta Nigra, the biggest existing Roman portal north of the Alps, is the symbol of the metropolis since the second century – precisely 180 AD when the Romans built it to keep the Celts out of the city. This unique edifice was build without mortar: iron clamps and the weight of the sandstone blocks still keep the assembly in place. Its colossal proportions made it a striking representation of Rome’s strength and supremacy. Notable is that, due to the Greek monk Simeon who came to Treves in 1028, the Black Gate was converted into a church. Nowadays the Porta Nigra is just an historic monument and, for rather a low price, you can enter and go up to the top for a staggering view of the city.
From the exterior Der Trierer Dom gives the impression of being more a fortress than a church. The nowdays construction still encloses a well preserved part of the ancient Roman building dating from 326-380. Its ancient stonework, combined with layers of bricks is still visible in the Cathedral’s north and south walls. The cathedral was built in Romanesque style but afterward baroque and gothic architectural elements were added and together they furnish the construction with an enduring harmony. In the interior baroque ornaments intertwine with Gothic catacombs and arcades. The tympanum representing Christ between the Virgin and Saint Peter is probably one of the most beautiful of its kind. The Cathedral is separated from the Church of Our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche) by a narrow passageway. This community church built between 1235-1260 is one of the first examples of Gothic architecture in Germany and it’s unique among other German churches. These are two astonishing monuments to visit free of charge, one near the other. What can be better?
Maybe the Aula Palatina? The Basilica and the Roman Palace are linked and form an architectural unit called Aula Palatina. The edifice, dating from Constantine the Great’s period (310) stands in the middle of a plateau, which in former times stretched from the St. Peter’s Cathedral and Church of Our Lady to the Imperial Thermae. The Thermae (baths) were between the largest in the entire Roman Empire. Their design is characterized by size and balance. The hot-water baths (Caldarium), a passage containing a huge pool on the east wall of the rectangular construction, and two other pools are the best-preserved part of the Thermae.
There are many other attractions worth the trip to Trier, and among them the Karl Marx House in Br�¼ckenstrasse, used at present as a museum and research center. It has been recently renovated and re-opened to the public on the 9th of June this year, with a new presentation of the life of the founder of the scientific socialism and his worldwide effect on history. The museum offers from now on an audio guide in four languages: German, English, French and Chinese.
There is never enough to tell about Trier and its beauty. One must discover this town alone. I lived more than two years in a German village – Morbach – 45 km away, and I was deeply disappointed. Trier came as a salvation since it had eased my thirst for culture. The city is reach in art and tradition and it’s worth more than a one-day visit. Besides, people are friendly, many speak English and moreoverâÂ?¦ Trier is only thirty minutes away from France or Belgium, and LuxemburgâÂ?¦ is at the entrance.
