A Tour of Little Odessa: The Russian Culture of Brighton Beach

We’ve seen the movies. We’ve heard the rumors. Some of us have even tried the food. The Russian community in New York, centered around Brighton Beach Avenue and stretching from Coney Island to the farthest reaches of Queens, is less and less of a mystery.

But few people outside the Russian community know of the vibrant theater and music culture that thrives in and around Little Odessa. Russia is steeped in ageless performance traditions: the famous Method, used by Pacino, DeNiro and countless other serious actors, originated with Stanislavsky in Moscow; the Russian ballet has lead the way for centuries; and Russian music has given the world such great composers as Prokofiev.

Though far from Russia, New York offers a great sampling of Russia’s rich culture and often plays host to Russia’s own great actors and musicians. Here are a few places where you can find inspiring performances and learn about Russian culture.

Abraham Lincoln High School
2700 Ocean Parkway
Brooklyn, NY 11235
(718) 372-5474

It might seem strange that a list of Russian culture hubs starts with a high school. But this is no mistake: the Abraham Lincoln High School, located at the end of Ocean Parkway (sometimes lovingly referred to as Russian Parkway), has hosted some of the best rock, pop and classical musicians from Russia.

The high school auditorium looks unassuming enough, but as the lights go down, the place is transformed into a fierce rock stage. The acoustics are better than those of some famous Manhattan venues, and the relaxed school atmosphere often makes for easy, fun energy. Russia’s best rock bands love to play here: it’s somehow fitting that the people who used to play in Russia’s schools to avoid persecution for “perverting the Communist ideals of music” now play in an American school because it’s plain fun.

Millennium Theater
1029 Brighton Beach Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11235
(718) 615-1500

Millennium is to Russian theater what the Lincoln High School is to Russian rock. This large space with fine acoustics hosts some of the most celebrated troupes of Moscow and Leningrad, including Russia’s brightest film and theater stars; offers performances by Russian comedians, many of whom are worshipped in Russia for their bravery and willingness to say things ordinary people dare not say in a totalitarian culture; and serves up every kind of music, from Russia’s answer to Britney Spears to Russia’s version of Nine Inch Nails.

The theater is located, inexplicably, above a rowdy Russian restaurant, but the beat that sometimes seeps through the floor and the inebriated patrons hanging out downstairs only add to the authentic feel of the place.

St. Petersburg Bookstore
230 Brighton Beach Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11235
(718) 891-6778

Manhattan has Virgin Megastore and Tower Records; Little Odessa has the St. Petersburg Bookstore. Sprawling and filled from floor to ceiling with the best of Russian music, movies and books, the St. Petersburg Bookstore offers a very cheap connection to the culture of the home country. You can find a great rock CD for as cheap as $3 here; a screen classic on DVD for $8; a beautifully printed hardcover book for $10 – but don’t expect subtitles!

Store clerks are very knowledgeable and seem to actually enjoy their work. Tell them what kind of music you’re into, and they’ll help you pick out CDs that you are sure to love, even if you don’t understand a word.

Odessa Restaurant
1113 Brighton Beach Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11235
(718) 332-3223

What is a restaurant doing on the list of cultural hot spots? Well, culture is a relative term that encompasses many different things: concertos and hits, Shakespeare and Spielberg, War and Peace and People MagazineâÂ?¦ Odessa, one of the Russian’s community’s most beloved restaurants, represents the latter part of culture.

During the day, Odessa is a restaurant like any other. But as the sun sets, it turns into a steamy, loud, sexy nightclub where you can gorge yourself on rich Russian food while watching scantily clad dancers gyrating not five feet from your plate to the catchy beats of Russian and European disco.

The New Year, Russia’s biggest holiday (Christmas has never quite caught on), is a particularly busy time of year at Odessa Restaurant. The New Year show can rival anything you’ll see on tv – but make sure you get your $200 tickets months in advance!

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