Banff – Moderate Happy Trails
The Canadian National Parks started because of a love of money, not wilderness. In 1883, the young country of Canada was building a long and expensive railway from the Atlantic to the Pacific. In the Rockies, three railroad workers took a prospecting break and stumbled across a basin of hot sulfur water, a cave enclosing a spring, and a green pool of warm water. The financial possibilities were quickly apparent-not only to the three workers but to many others who quickly filed claims on the land.
The government bureaucrats deferred to the politicians and railway moguls. The government decided to pay off the three men who found the hot springs and take over and develop the spot as a tourist resort. The railway could make money by bringing tourists to the Rocky Mountains. It turned out to be a good deal for all, especially current tourists. It also marked the beginning of Canadian national parks. It was the beginning of Banff.
One of the best ways to enjoy Banff National Park is on foot. The adventure can be anything from a leisurely stroll around town to a 3-hour hike to a teahouse to an overnight trek into the backcountry. I prefer the moderate half-day sojourns into the wilderness. That way I can enjoy both the beauty of the Rockies and the fine food and company in the excellent restaurants in Banff.
With more than 1300 kilometers of trails in the park, the hardest task could be choosing a trail to follow. Trails tin the valley floors are often free of snow from April to November, making Banff’s hiking season a long one. My favorite hike is the first one I ever went on in this park, the trail to Lake Agnes and the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouses above Lake Louise.
The teahouse at Agnes Lake is reached by a 3.6 km hike starting from the boathouse next to the famously photographed Lake Louise. The Lake Agnes Teahouse was originally established at the turn of the century. The lake itself is named after Lady Agnes Macdonald, the wife of Sir John A. Macdonald-first Prime Minister of Canada. Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway, the teahouse gave guests at its Chateau Lake Louise the chance to stretch their legs and to see the sights for which the area had become famous.
On my first time hiking to the teahouses, I met an elderly couple making their way across the rock fields below the glacier. As I caught my breath and struggled to maintain a precarious balance, she told me it was the 39 straight year they had climbed to the glacier above Lake Louise. The first time was on their honeymoon. Ah.
The full day 5.5 km trek to the Plain of Six glaciers Teahouse takes you past the west end of Lake Louise up toward Mt. Victoria. Half a dozen glaciers are visible from the teahouse. The original two-story, stone and timber building constructed in 1926 still stands. The upper balcony is an ideal place to relax and soak up the surroundings. At both teahouses, you are in the zone of the alpine larch. Although this species is coniferous, the trees lose all their needles after turning golden in autumn. Mountain goats are often visible from the upper teahouse.
A favorite little hike of mine is the 2.7 km trail up Johnson Canyon. The canyon is an excellent example of the erosive power of water. Initiated only 10,000 years ago, after the retreat of the glaciers from the Bow Valley, Johnson Creek has managed to chip and dissolve the bedrock to create an impressive chasm. It is filled with waterfalls, rapids and glistening rock walls. Parks Canada has constructed a unique suspended catwalk which allows hikers to explore the canyon from directly above the roaring waters below. Johnson Canyon is located on the Bow Valley Parkway, 25 km west of Banff.
If any scene can challenge the beauty of Lake Louise, it is Moraine Lake in the Valley of the Ten Peaks. A 14 km trail leads from Lake Louise to Moraine. The climb is steep at times but the fierce beauty of the mountains is certainly worth a little sweat. But if you’re too busy to make this hike, you can always look at the back of a Canadian twenty dollar bill. Moraine Lake is featured there.
Sunshine Meadows on Sulfur Mountain above the town of Banff offers an extensive Alpine meadow over 300 species of flowers and 20 km of nature trails. An eight minute gondola ride takes you to the 18,500 foot summit. A restaurant can get you started with a hearty breakfast and a great 350 degree view of the park before you start exploring. Be warned that the temperature difference between the town and the peak can be extreme.
There are many other reasonable and enjoyable short hikes in Banff national Park. Parks Canada can provide information and put you in touch with the many guide services if you desire more strenuous wilderness trekking. Permits for hiking in the park are free but necessary for overnight hikes. The Parks Canada offers a backcountry hut system.
