Bargaining in Egypt: Fun and Profit
The price is never what is marked or originally offered. It is what is finally agreed on after thirty minutes of friendly but often spirited negotiation. The shopkeeper always asks more than he expects to get. Traditionally, the customer should start the counter offer at fifty percent of the asking price. However, impatient visitors to Cairo have spoiled the market. In high-density tourist areas, such as the Pyramids, you should begin very low-maybe only a tenth of the asking price. It depends on the amount.
A good way to begin your buying experience is not to buy at all. Just browse and bargain a little to get the feel of the market. Compare prices. Usually similar items are grouped in shops in the same area and comparison shipping is easy. Don’t get hurt or feel silly when the store operator laughs at your first counter offer or cries about food for his family. It’s the game. Have fun with it. He is. He expects you to bargain. He wants you to bargain.
I bargained for some turquoise in Aswan with a merchant who told me I was his first customer of the day. He was bored and glad for the company. We laughed, joked, had tea, shook hands on the deal. And when you shake, the deal is sealed. Price and conditions do not change. Bargaining is over. Terms are set. You can be sure his word will be kept.
The price I paid for the jewelry was low but I probably could have gotten it cheaper. The merchant could have probably gotten more from someone just off the Nile cruiser with more money than time and not the temperament for this type of shopping. But we both got a fair price. The free-market economy at its basics.
A friend spotted a nice sculpture in lapis in an upscale Aswan shop in a four-star hotel. She negotiated the price from $1100 to $800 but the shopkeeper would go no lower. Back at our hotel later, I asked how high she wanted to go. She said, $500. So, we went to a merchant in the hotel and explained what she wanted and told this local we would give him $500 for the item. It didn’t matter to us how much he paid. An hour later, we met him in the hotel bar. The middleman’s skill and inside knowledge was valuable for us, for him, and for the original merchant who wouldn’t have had a sale without it.
As a practical tip, learn a few Arabic phrases such as how much, too expensive, maybe, yes, no, and basic numbers. This isn’t necessary. The merchant will understand English and a few other languages. However, he’ll enjoy your attempts at using Arabic (so uncommon for an American or European to try) and you’ll both have more fun. And isn’t that the point of travel, anyway.
Some things to remember when bargaining in the shops of Egypt are to compare prices. If there is something you know you’d be interested in before going, check it out at home. I wanted a brass coffee grinder. I found one in a local Seattle shop for $66. I bought one just like it in the alleys of Aswan for $5. Shopping in Egypt requires a bit of theatrics. Play the role of a buyer. You play your part and the shopkeeper plays his. Smile and show a sense of humor and never insult the shopkeeper, even in jest. I once called a crafts seller in Aswan a “thief” in arabic. I meant it as a bargaining tactic. I was lucky to escape the shop alive. Take your time. If you are in a hurry, you’ll probably pay more. Make the merchant invest time with you. He won’t want to lose a sale. If you think he’s at his bottom price, see if there’s something else in the shop you might want and try to get him to throw it in.
The Aswan market (souq) is one of the most colorful and interesting in Egypt. Take your time to wander through it. I particularly like the spice market. Stall after stall of brightly colored spices pull you in like a kid in a candy store. And if you want to avoid the heat of the sun, the market is open late in Aswan. The Egyptians like to avoid the heat, too.
Besides spices, you’ll find interesting produce in Aswan, silver, scarves, bags, perfume and perfume bottles. The scent of the tea leaves that you can purchase by the bag full is amazing. Papyrus making is a well known Egyptian craft and probably a must buy when you are there. It is interesting and informative to watch a demonstration of paper making in Aswan before wandering out to find you piece with a colorfully hand-painted ancient scene. There are many cheap imitations made with banana leaves. Be careful and ask when you watch the demonstration how to tell the difference since the banana leaves will rot shortly after getting it home.
Some things to do when in Aswan when not shopping include checking out a couple of islands in the Nile. Elephantine Island is the largest of the Aswan aea islands, and is one of the most ancient sites in Egypt. It is at the site of the first Cataract of the NIle, the natural boundary between Egypt and Nubia. Because of this, the island has had a settlement and fort for much of its history. On this island is the famous Nilometer which is one of three that measured the water level of the Nile as late as the 19th Century.
Another island near Aswan that’s worth a visit is Kitchner’s Island. It is a botanical garden filled with exotic plants and trees imported from all over the world. It is located on the other side of Elphantine Island from Aswan. The island was given to Lord Kitchner for his campaigns in the Sudan, and he created the garden. The Egyptian government operates the site.
Of course, no visit to Aswan would be complete without a tour of the Aswan High Dam. An old dam was built between 1898 and 1902. As Egypt’s population grew, a larger dam was needed to cultivate new land and increase supplies of electricity. Work on the Aswan HIgh Dam began with Russian help in the 1960’s. It was completed in 1971. While it has had an effect on humidity and decreasing the natural fertilization of yearly flooding, it does save Egypt from the effects of droughts. Life is a trade-off.
