Basic Tools for Making Wire Jewelry
Have you ever thought of creating your own jewelry designs? Wire offers a versatile and approachable material for making many different styles of jewelry. Whether you choose to work with precious metals like silver and gold, or inexpensive colored wire, there are a few basic tools you’ll need to get started.
Wire Cutters: The first step in most wire-working techniques is to cut a length of wire. The type of wire cutters you’ll want for most jewelry wire are sometimes called side cutters or flush cutters, and they’re smaller and more delicate than the heavy-duty cutters sold in hardware stores. Consider investing in double flush cutters, which are crafted so as to leave a clean (or flush) cut on both sides of the cut. If you plan to work with steel wire, or thicker gauges of wire, you’ll also need one of the heavy-duty varieties to avoid dulling your finer cutters!
Pliers: Several types of pliers are used to make wire jewelry, and like the cutters they are generally smaller and more delicate than most pliers sold in hardware stores. Round-nose pliers, in which both jaws are round, are used for shaping loops in the wire. Chain-nose pliers, in which the insides of the jaws are flat while the outsides are rounded, are used to grip the wire tightly. Flat-nose pliers, in which both jaws are narrow and flat, are used for bending, flattening, and holding wire in place. Chain-nose and flat-nose pliers can also be used in pairs to work with jumprings while making chainmail jewelry or linking elements together. For all types of pliers, you’ll want to make sure the insides of the jaws are flat rather than ridged to avoid putting unwanted marks on the wire.
Beyond making sure you’re choosing the right type of pliers for the work you want to do, you’ll also want to make sure they are comfortable to hold. Padded handles often add comfort when using the pliers for long periods of time, and many styles of pliers are made with springs to aid in their operation. (Some people, however, prefer the added control they have with pliers without spring-loaded handles.) Make sure your pliers fit comfortably in your hand.
Files: Used for smoothing down the rough edges of wire after it is cut, files come in many shapes and sizes. You can buy a set of fine metal files in a variety of shapes from a jewelry supply store. You may also consider purchasing a cup burr, which allows you to insert one end of the wire into a shallow cup that is rough inside. Rotating the handle causes the entire cut end to be smoothed. Be sure to file all of your wire ends so anyone wearing your jewelry doesn’t get scratched by it!
Jigs and Mandrels: Wire-shaping tools come in many varieties. One of the most versatile tools is a jig, which at its most basic is a flat surface with holes in which pegs can be inserted. Wire is then bent around the pegs, allowing identical components to be made with ease. Jigs can be handmade by drilling holes in a block of wood, or for a permanent pattern, simply hammering nails into wood and cutting off the nailheads. They can also be purchased in metal or clear acrylic. One advantage of the clear acrylic jigs is that they allow visibility of a pattern placed underneath the jig to aid in the placement of pegs.
Mandrels are used both for shaping and for sizing rings and bracelets. Ring mandrels come in smooth and stepped varieties, and usually have ring size markings inscribed right on them. The stepped mandrels allow for easier creation of thicker ring designs. Bracelet mandrels can also be smooth or stepped, and are usually offered in round or oval cross-section. Necklace mandrels are also available, and allow for the smooth shaping of thicker wire into an elegant neck ring. While you may find mandrels offered in wood or plastic, metal mandrels are much more sturdy and allow for shaping the wire with light taps from a mallet.
There are many other specialized tools for creating beautiful jewelry designs in wire, but these should be enough to get you started. Happy creating!
