Beaufort: A Hidden Treasure of the North Carolina Crystal Coast

Spending your vacations on a sea shore can be one of the most gratifying experiences. The smell and the sound of the ocean, hungry seagulls swiping down to the water, morning departures of the fishing boats, lazy afternoons on a boardwalkâÂ?¦ With only four days to spare, we chose Beaufort – a small seaside town in North Carolina. With so many opportunities on the East Coast it was not one of those “spur of the moment” decisions. My son spent a few days here during a previous summer, and was enchanted by the place.

Whether you enjoy the quietness and seclusion of small beaches, or prefer the lively atmosphere of a small port, Beaufort has something for everyone. Beaufort is located 150 miles southeast of Raleigh, North Carolina, just off Cape Lookout, which is about halfway between Cape Hatteras and Cape Fear (http://www.historicbeaufort.com/bfrtnc.html ). Beaufort was established in the early XVIII century as a fishing town, and became a seaport in 1722 (http://www.beaufort-nc.com/history/ ). The seacoast with its numerous inlets and protected harbors was frequented by pirates, the most famous of which was Edward Teach, better known as Blackbeard. He terrorized his victims, according to some early accounts, by weaving wicks laced with gunpowder into his hair, and lighting them during the attack. (http://www.ah.dcr.state.nc.us/sections/maritime/Blackbeard/default.htm)

Blackbeard was killed by the Royal Navy in a battle at Ocracoke Inlet in 1718. Public interest in Blackbeard and his history was reawakened in 1996 with the discovery of his ship “The Queen Anne’s Revenge” in the shoals of the Beaufort Inlet. Artifacts recovered from the ship, including anchors, cannon balls, and a sounding weight are on a display at the North Carolina Maritime Museum.

Beaufort makes you feel welcome. The phrase “southern hospitality” immediately becomes meaningful. Whether shopping in one of the stores on Front Street, or asking directions, you encounter an attitude of warmth and goodwill. On our last day we decided to spend some time at the public beach in Morehead City, just north of Beaufort. Many surfers of various skills tried their luck conquering the waves. The not-so-adventurous folk were wading or swimming close to the shore. We joined the former, trying to dive under the waves as the bigger ones reached us. One of the women asked: “Are you going to ride them?” Noticing our uncertainty, she explained the simple skill of “body-surfing”. You have to wait for a decent-sized wave, and turn around at the right moment, stretching your arms above your head. Then ride the wave towards the shore. Oh, what fun it was! We did not even introduce ourselves, but felt as if we knew her forever.

A visitor in Beaufort can choose various accommodations including inns, bed and breakfasts, or apartments to rent. Our waterfront apartment (rented through Beaufort Realty (http://www.beaufortrlty.com/ ) was equipped with all sorts of amenities and tastefully furnished. It suited our needs; we decided to cook some nights, and dine-out when felt like it. It was a difficult task to choose from the abundance of local restaurants; The Spouter Inn, (http://www.thespouterinn.com/ ) where we had dinner one night, would not have disappointed even the most selective gourmand. The chef certainly took the idea of “fresh” seafood very seriously.

For those interested in swimming and sunbathing, the best choice is to take a ferry to Carrot Island or Shakleford Banks. Only a five minute ride from Beaufort waterfront, Carrot Island is part of the Rachel Carson National Estuarine Research Reserve. The island is a habitat for numerous species of birds, various shrubs and marsh grasses. Wild horses found their refuge on this island, as well as on Shackleford Banks. Only a short walk from the ferry’s landing point is a secluded beach with crystal clear water. It is important to bring food, plenty of water, and arrange for protection from the sun, since there is very little natural shade on the island. You can pick a trail guide at the ferry’s office, and walk along the path following the markers, or spend all day on a beach, swimming, sunbathing, or trying your luck with fishing. For those interested in shelling, Shakleford Banks present a better opportunity, facing the open ocean. However, we preferred the calm inner waters of Carrot Island for unmatched swimming opportunities.

Kayaking offered us a chance to explore islands and reach secluded coves on our own. AB Kayaks’ (http://www.abkayaks.com ) friendly staff gave us a short “crash course” on sea kayaking, and we were on our way. If you choose a weekday for this adventure, the shores might be virtually isolated, however, on a weekend we saw numerous boats of various sizes anchored along the beach.

Beaufort has something for everyone: from deep sea fishing, to taking sailing lessons, to learning local legends on a Ghost Walk. In the evening the boardwalk is busy with tourists and locals listening to a bluegrass band in a waterfront restaurant, watching sailboats anchor at the pier, or souvenir-hunting on Front Street. Somehow you start feeling that you belong here, and when it is time to go, a little part of this North Carolina treasure stays with you.

On our last day at sunrise we saw dolphins crossing the harbor, gracefully gliding in calm water as if saying their goodbyes�