Castillo De San Marcos
The oldest masonry fortress in the continental United States is one of America’s little-known icons. Begun by the Spanish citizens of St. Augustine, Florida in 1674, it continued to grow throughout the centuries until it became the familiar landmark that both tourists and locals know and love. Although the Castillo was officially opened in 1695, renovations by both Spanish, and then British soldiers in the mid-1700s strengthened and upgraded its fortifications. The shot furnace, used to fire red-hot cannonballs at approaching enemy vessels, is a 19th-century addition.
Entering the Castillo
Walking up through the beautifully-manicured lawn, you will spy the four bastions, or corners, of the Castillo in all their ancient beauty. You’ll be impressed that the old fort is in remarkably good shape, considering it has stood on this spot over three hundred years. Many visitors, especially history-lovers, may experience a sense of awe and wonder. It is easy to see why the Castillo is one of the undeniable icons of St. Augustine’s past. You may notice the patches of white coloring splashed across the gray coquina, or shell-rock, of the Castillo’s exterior. At one time, centuries ago, the entire Castillo was painted white, its towers bright red.
After glancing up at the ravelin, the small lookout building across from the Castillo, and crossing the wooden drawbridge, you begin to notice little historical details that make the Castillo so charming. Take note of the sally port, the huge slotted door that has allowed thousands of tourists to enter the fort. Once inside the Castillo’s damp rooms, it is easy to feel and smell its age. To the right is a small doorway; enter to find the guard rooms where Spanish soldiers of the 18th century spent much of their free time. You will see signatures on the walls, many unreadable; special exhibit areas showcase these spots. From the guard rooms, you can peer into the prison though a small barred door.
A Bit of History
The Castillo is shadowy in a friendly way. It’s very unusual to find a landmark that has actually kept many of its original features without being spoiled by time, and the Castillo is one such place. There are many rooms scattered throughout the courtyard. The Catholic chapel is one of the most refreshing places to visit, especially after a brutally hot walk around the courtyard. Wooden benches, a coquina-stone altar and a niche where a statue would have once stood are reminders that faith was very important to the Castillo’s soldiers. In some rooms you will notice a high, seemingly unreachable window. In rooms such as these, Native Americans were kept in the tumultuous aftermath of Florida’s local wars. Important chiefs such as Coacoochee and Osceola were imprisoned here. Stories of Osceola’s imprisonment have created some interesting ghost stories and added to the mysterious allure of the old rooms.
Many of the Castillo’s dark coquina rooms are exhibit areas with maps, models and plaques showing the past events that helped to make the fort famous in its own right. Stop by the British Room to see how English soldiers modified the old Spanish fort to their own specifications and what their daily lives were like while they served here. You will learn that the British soldiers actually built a wooden second story above some of the Castillo’s existing rooms to give them more storage capacity. Once the bottom level has been explored, you can climb the ancient stone steps to the gun deck.
The Allure of the Gun Deck
The gun deck can either be a great experience or a miserable one, depending on the weather. If it’s a hot day, the sun glares off the white cement floor and can almost blind unsuspecting tourists; but if it’s a cloudy, cool day, the salt breezes coming from Matanzas Bay are well worth the slight climb. If you walk all around the perimeter of the gun deck you will see four corner bastions. The largest bastion, with its own watchtower, looks out over the bay where soldiers watched for intruders. The bastions are all named after saints; San Pablo, San Pedro, San Carlos and San AgustÃ?Ân. The large tower is called San Marcos.
A Terrible Past
Some history concerning the tranquil Matanzas Bay that flows beneath the Castillo; in 1565, when Spanish conquerors made their mark on Florida soil, they were told to eradicate French settlers who had their base at Fort Caroline, which is now Jacksonville. The French settlers who survived the battle at Fort Caroline fled to a spot located on Anastasia Island, now known as Matanzas Inlet. There, they were massacred for their Protestant faith. The water became known as Matanzas – Spanish for slaughters – and the inlet connected with the bay, leading to the bay being named Matanzas as well.
Visiting at Dusk
If you happen to stop by the Castillo at dusk, although the interior closes around 5:30, you may still be able to walk around the bay wall. Although you will most likely see people milling around over the lawn, there won’t be as much noise and chaos as during the day and you can properly pay your respects to the old fortress. The floodlights at the base of the Castillo give it an eerie illumination; if you have a camera that can take night photos, try to take some around the Castillo’s walls. Whether or not you believe in the paranormal, you might get some interesting photos it will be hard to explain! Even without the aspect of ghostly activity, the Castillo at dark is particularly a fascinating place.
Basic Facts
Some words of caution; be careful not to climb into towers or stray close to edges, as some places on the gun deck have no rails. The Castillo, sadly, is not as strong as it used to be and visitors are urged to treat the fort with respect and to tread gently. If something looks dangerous, it’s best to stay away from it.
The Castillo de San Marcos is maintained by the National Park Service and is serviced continually to help it retain its old glory. The Park Service will sometimes hold cannon-firing demonstrations, usually on weekend afternoons between the hours of 1:00 and 3:30. You should call to be sure a demonstration is being held if you are planning to visit over the weekend. Also, don’t be surprised to see “Spanish soldiers” milling around the Castillo. Costumed living historians add an air of believability to the fort and are knowledgeable on matters concerning the Castillo.
