Castles of Wales – the Iron Ring
Wales can claim four hundred castles in an area the size of Massachusetts. Now, that’s a statistic not soon forgotten.
The most jaw-dropping castles resulted from Edward I’s decision in 1276 to treat the Welsh princes as rebels. Unlike James Dean-these were rebels with a cause. Edward constructed a series of linked fortresses meant to control this rowdy bunch once and for all. The northern castles are known collectively as the “Iron Ring.”
Wales is also home to a select group of hotels called Welsh Rarebits-primarily small, historic and privately owned. Only 48 properties are included under this umbrella. Fortunately each of the castles mentioned here is situated near a Rarebit. Castles, fine dining and lodging with distinct character, what more could a traveler want?
Conwy Castle
This colossus, eerily lit up against the night sky, is a vision to set a castle-lovers heart aflutter, including mine. The castle is a World Heritage Site, with good reason. If this structure didn’t intimate you, nothing could. It’s rather like our Grand Canyon; you must see it in person to really understand the magnitude.
In Conwy, opt for a stay at The Castle Hotel, located on the site of an ancient abbey-no doubt haunted like the castle itself. (140-210 euros per room two sharing or 169-255 dollars) There’s been a hotel at this spot since the 14th Century and the lodging is just steps from the castle. This accommodation has played host to William Wordsworth and Charlotte Bronte.
Be sure to take a close look at the paintings of Shakespearean scenes by Victorian artist John Dawson-Watson, reputedly given in return for his stay.
The Lavin family along with friend and partner, Graham Tinsley, provide not just a meal, but a dining experience. Local produce is a trademark of their award-winning restaurant.
Caernarfon Castle:
Even castle aficionados wax poetic over Caernarfon. She was built not only as a military stronghold, but as a seat of government and royal palace.
It was here in 1969, young Charles officially became Prince of Wales. For the Welsh, the investiture was a proud moment, one of the rare times when the world focused on this remote part of the world. Inside the castle, a small exhibit highlights the occasion.
When touring Caernarfon, make your home-away-from-home Seiont Manor, a welcoming country house. (252 euros per room two sharing or 304 dollars) Arriving at the door, you think you’re entering an extended farmhouse, but first looks can be deceptive. Exploring their 150 acres and the manor itself is half the fun.
Head Chef Martyn Williams is known for cuisine of elegant simplicity, with lamb and beef from a nearby field and fish fresh from Caernarfon.
Beaumaris Castle:
Located on the Isle of Anglesey, Beaumaris has been called an “unfinished masterpiece” by castle experts. Money and supplies ran out before the fortifications reached their full height-nonetheless she is worthy of a visit. Seeing the moat made me wonder about what lies beneath those murky waters.
In pure architectural terms Beaumaris has few equals. The concentric walls within walls plan, involving no less than four successive lines of fortifications was state-of-the-art for 13th century castle design.
In Beaumaris, unpack for a memorable stay at the Ye Olde Bull’s Head Inn, a historic stagecoach stop. (138 euros per room for two sharing or 167 dollars) Horses were stabled in the courtyard by Cromwell’s forces during the siege of the castle in 1645. Continuing our famous names theme, Charles Dickens slept under this roof. The inn dates from 1472, although it was rebuilt in 1617.
When dining here, the emphasis is on atmosphere and good food, particularly seafood. The inn is considered one of North Wales top eating establishments.
It’s often said; good things come in small packages. That’s certainly true with Wales.
