Chamonix: A French Alps Destination for Non-Climbers

For the majority of travelers Chamonix has a strong association with Mont Blanc – the highest mountain of Western Europe (elevation is more than 15,000 feet). Its snow-covered ridges certainly dominate the view from the valley. Chamonix became famous in 1741 when two travelers Windham and Pococke explored the area, visiting the Mer de Glace glacier, and published their report. General interest greatly increased after the first successful climb in 1786. Crystal-hunter Jacques Balmat lost his companions and was forced to spend the night on the glacier. He survived, and thus dispelled the legend of evil surrounding the mountain. Later that year, joined by the local doctor Michel Gabriel Paccard he climbed Mont Blanc. The way for other adventurers had been opened.

Today several cable-car routes connect the valley with the surrounding mountains, saving you time and effort, and offering unparallel views and picture opportunities. Scores of enthusiasts come to Chamonix every year to put their skills to the test. There are several routes to the top of Mont Blanc; a climber may rest in one of the mountain huts savoring a hot meal and an opportunity to prepare for the ascent. Even though as many as 300 climbers set off for the summit of Mont Blanc on a good day, it is not as easy as some might claim. High terrain, snow-covered glaciers, unpredictable weather, and strong winds present serious challenges. Extensive preparation is essential. A first time climber should hire an experienced mountain guide who can provide basic climbing training, select the most appropriate route and ensure the safety of the trip.

If mountain climbing is not your “cup of tea”, Chamonix presents many alternatives: hiking in Alpine meadows, exploring nearby villages with their unique chalet architecture, sampling local Savoyard cuisine, or souvenir-hunting.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½

Mer de Glace
The largest glacier in France, Mer de Glace (the Sea of Ice) is 4.5 miles long. In 1908 a rack-and-pinion train connected it with the valley. The train climbs up the sides of the Aiguilles de Chamonix to an altitude of 1913 m. arriving at Montenvers, where tourists can enjoy the views of surrounding mountains, have a meal at a small restaurant, or visit an unusual Ice Grotto with its collection of ice sculptures. A well-established path leads down to the glacier. There is no need for technical climbing – several metal ladders attached to the rock face provide necessary support. It is not advisable, however, to walk on a glacier without appropriate equipment and training: the snow-covered crevasses can be quite deep.

Alpine Hikes
There are almost unlimited possibilities for hiking around Chamonix. For an easy and enjoyable walk take a cable car from the center of the village and ride to Planpraz. Several hiking trails are marked on a map available at the ticket office. The air is crisp, snow-covered slopes are dotted with pines, and the path meanders along the shoulder of the mountain. In late June there were still some patches of wet snow on the ground; our hiking boots and tracking poles helped in difficult spots. For a more adventurous soul there is a thrill of paragliding: Planpraz is the most popular first time take-off in the area. Novices are accompanied by instructors, and glide down towards the valley to their landing spot.
The shortest hike (about two hours) will bring you to the la Flegere cable car station; from there you can ride down to Le Praz, and continue back to Chamonix through the park surrounding the river L’Arve.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½

If you have more time
With an extra day to explore the valley we drove to Servoze, a little sleepy village of picturesque chalets. The tourist booklet mentioned Gorges de la Diosaz, a natural wonder not to be missed. It is a miniature canyon with footpaths and galleries attached to the rock face, allowing a visitor excellent views of the stream below. The narrow path ends at the waterfall, and then leads back through the gorge. The whole adventure takes hardly an hour, leaving enough time for a visit to a local ethnographical museum.
Businesses in France generally have longer lunch hours; be prepared to find food stores closing for a midday break. Luckily, the local butcher store was still open. We had the greatest meal of warm bread, smoked sausage, and freshly picked tomatoes.�¯�¿�½

Local Cuisine
Chamonix has something for every taste, from a noisy Irish pub to sophisticated French restaurant. When traveling, I like sampling area cuisine and savoring unique flavors. Our mountain guide suggested La Savoyarde on route des Moussoux featuring raclette (meat and vegetables covered with cheese), and various omelets. Another interesting find was Fleur de Sel serving Breton crepes. I learned the difference between crepes (a sweet variety, usually served with fruit) and galettes, which are prepared with rye flour and accompanied by various meats, foie gra, or cheese. The menu included more than forty varieties of crepes, making a choice difficult.
Mornings can be quite chilly in the mountains, even at the end of June. By the late afternoon sun warms up the valley, and glac�©e (ice cream) stands attract scores of tourists. For an alternative dessert treat yourself to a mouth-watering pastry with a cup of smooth hot chocolate, and watch passing crowds while setting sun paints mountain tops in shades of cream and purple.�¯�¿�½

How to get here
Chamonix is close to major European cities: Geneva, Lyon, and Turin. You have a choice of train, bus, or car to reach your destination. We flew from USA to Geneva, and arrived in the morning, having the whole day to explore the city. It took our bus a little more than an hour to cover 53 miles from Geneva to Chamonix.