Christmas in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
The beachside city of Puerto Vallarta hugs the scenic shore of Mexico’s Bay of Banderas and ranks second in popularity only to Cancun. Unlike Cancun, however, Vallarta prices have remained in pesos (though U.S. dollars are widely accepted at a fair rate) and geography has restricted its Americanization. Snowbirds considering a green Christmas should shortlist this lesser known of Mexican getaways.
Vallarta is widely considered a smart choice for the cautious traveler: CBS Marketplace recently ranked Vallarta a top 10 safe haven: over half of the area’s tourists are domestic. Though limited English is spoken, this is the perfect opportunity to use your high school Spanish.
Besides a few plastic poinsettias strung up between street lamps and the hourly ding-dong of church bells, the Christmas season is low key in Vallarta. You won’t have to worry about cooking on December 25th, maybe for the first time in a long time. Or ever.
Downtown Vallarta
Though Vallarta is famous for jungle-covered mountains and golden sandy beaches, the city’s emblem is a lively, mile-long seaside boulevard called the MalecÃ?³n where artists, performers, vendors and tourists gather. The thrills of this walk are interrupted by the holiday.
During the holy season a few enterprising artists build elaborate sand sculptures of the Virgin of Guadalupe on the beach side of the MalecÃ?³n, sprinkling dye to make her coat stand out and lighting her up at night with votives in plastic cups. It’s an oddly beautiful sight in the midst of the chaos of downtown.
Sample strawberries in whipped cream, try some corn treats and a myriad of carnival food as the waves thunder against the jetty near Los Arcos. Pose with the bronze Sergio Bustamante sculptures, marvel as the Papantla Flyers spiral down headfirst from a 30 meter pole in an ancient Mayan ceremony. Perhaps a better translation for MalecÃ?³n would be “pleasurable sensory overload”.
If you don’t mind the rattle and hum of city life, staying amid the lovely cobblestone streets of downtown offers an inexpensive and authentically Mexican accommodation experience. Staying downtown, close to the action, means you can get up early for a jog along the MalecÃ?³n or watch the fishermen bringing in the catch of the day; basically enjoy the heart of the city before it fills up with people. You’ll also save on transportation since everything will be within walking distance including grocery stores, restaurants, pharmacies, Internet cafes, laundry service and even the beach.
Many of the whitewashed homes with terracotta roofs just blocks from the MalecÃ?³n rent rooms to visitors (look for signs or surf the net – try the “Vacation Rentals” section in Mexico City on www.craigslist.com). Be prepared for a modest setting to match the modest price. You probably won’t see any homes with Christmas trees, real or fake. Nativity scenes, nacimientos, are much more common, and amazingly ornate. Bigger Mexican cities have begun to import American traditions like Santa Claus, but rural Vallarta remains true to its Catholic roots.
Seasonal festivities in Mexico come to a head on Christmas Eve (Noche Buena) with posadas, Christmas parties, which include a feast of dishes like tamales, roast turkey, rice, stuffed chilies, bacalao (dried cod) and drinks like hot fruit punch or cider and traditional Spanish carols. Religious processions and pastorelas (dramatic re-enactments of the shepherds on their way to honor baby Jesus)are generally held on the days leading up to December 24th, but if you’re lucky you might see actors portraying Joseph and Mary’s journey to Bethlehem complete with a live donkey.
Mexican children usually open their presents from el Ni�±o Dios (the Holy Child) on Christmas Eve as well. The breaking of pi�±atas and running with sparklers carries on until late in the night.
Attending midnight mass at the Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, another Vallarta landmark, is an hour well-spent, even those who don’t regularly attend church. Refrain from wearing shorts or taking pictures during the service.
Restaurants and supermarkets close early on Christmas Eve, so make sure you eat before 6:00pm or stock up on provisions. If you choose to stay at a resort, these rules don’t apply, and you probably won’t even notice any of the Mexican customs taking place in the city’s core.
On Christmas Day morning, an abnormal hush envelops downtown. Department stores and banks will be closed the entire day. Mexicans relax with family and nibble on leftovers, but around noon restaurants and shops catering to tourists open for business. A good day to laze by the pool, if you’re near one.
If not, there’s another body of water nearby. It’s easy to follow the flow of foot traffic to Los Muertos, Vallarta’s main beach. Though a sandy area exists in front of the MalecÃ?³n, no one suntans or swims there. You’re better off walking ten minutes to Los Muertos for less rocky swimming. As with most Mexican beaches, no lifeguards are on duty.
The ability to smile and graciously say, “No gracias” to the parade of beach vendors roaming Los Muertos will come in handy. In some ways, direct-delivery shrimp on a stick, handmade wooden carvings or hair braiding is convenient, but it can become annoying. Avoid eye contact or feign sleep if you don’t want to invite a solicitation. And remember that living in a city inundated with tourists can be annoying too.
The geuine friendliness with which tourists are received in Vallarta is rare among resort destinations. And possibly no other beach in the world has small groups of mariachis playing on it (for a price, of course, about $5 or 50 pesos per song). Many delicious restaurants are located on and next to Los Muertos. Hugely popular Daiquiri Dick’s – more elegant than it sounds – is a good choice for Christmas Day dinner. Make reservations for early afternoon. Try parasailing (about $35 for a 15 minute sail) between sunbathing and swimming. Note: the south end of Los Muertos is unofficially the gay area. In 2004, The New York Times reported favorably on Vallarta’s “generally tolerant social conditions”.
Shopping
Though several new boutiques downtown show promise, Vallarta’s shopping leaves much to be desired. Vacation kitsch (shot glasses, ceramic ashtrays and cheaply made beachwear) abounds and diamond stores monopolize the strip. The widely advertised local flea market may be the cheapest place to buy souvenirs, but the facility is very run down.
Better bets include painstakingly handcrafted Huichol artwork, which is worth taking home, and silver jewelry, priced according to weight and purity (look for 925 or 800). Remember, Mexican silver is not treated with rhodium and tarnishes easily.
Search the side streets off the MalecÃ?³n for boutiques carrying quality merchandise. You’ll find funky galleries and great restaurants that way too. Walk over the swinging bridges of the Rio Cuale and stroll the aptly named “Romantic Zone” – Old Town Vallarta. Here you’ll find the archeology museum, a cluster of expensive restaurants and John Huston’s statue. The director became a local icon when he filmed “Night of the Iguana” starring Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton here. Taylor’s former home, Casa Kimberley, is open to the public.
Day Trips
Bucerias entices visitors with 7 miles of lovely beach less than an hour away from the bustle of downtown Vallarta. If Los Muertos is too crowded, Bucerias is the answer. Splurge on $200 peso ($20 dollar) taxi trip (one way) and ride horses along the beach. Jet ski, kayak or simply relax with a good book. Large restaurants directly on the beach compete for customers, making service and prices quite good.
Tour hawkers accost visitors throughout downtown – don’t be fooled into accepting free tour passes in exchange for spending a morning at a time share presentation unless you are seriously considering such an investment. Some operators are strictly in the business of selling tours, but ask for clarification if you’re not sure. Tour vendors typically haggle, especially if you are buying tickets for 4 or more people. Don’t be afraid to do the “walk-away” – leave when they won’t meet your price. You’ll usually be chased out the door with a better offer. This is Mexico, after all. Everything is negotiable.
Canopy tours are popular for those who want to swing through the jungle like Tarzan (except on zip lines, not vines), ditto for boat rides to nearby Mismaloya or Las Animas beaches. Humpback whales, dolphins and porpoises are common sightings in the bay. These trips can include or be separate from snorkeling stops at Los Arcos islands or a horseback ride up to a waterfall like Quimixto. Some of these day tours are all-you-can-drink. Ask for the specifics of what’s included: lunch will matter after an active day and some tours offer little more than a couple of tacos with some beer.
Tickets for a bullfight may be bought in advance, but cost the same at the bullring. The pirate ship Mariagalante cruises twice daily and offers on-board entertainment such as historical re-enactments and silly contests. The Mariagalante launches fireworks from the bay nightly. All boat tours leave from the Maritime Terminal, a short cab ride from downtown near the Marina.
Tours and special events shut down on Christmas Day, so plan accordingly.
Yelapa
Accessible only by boat, the pretty cove of Yelapa makes for a memorable day trip. Board the water taxi leaving from Los Muertos beach pier. For about 200 pesos ($20) per person round trip, the scenic 45 minute ride is well worth it. Before hitting the beach, stop by the village and peruse the work of Yelapa’s resident artist colony. Guided waterfall tours, parasailing and paragliding are also available. Beware of very slow service at either of the two beach restaurants. You may be better off bringing your own lunch. Adventurers will want to stay a night or two in Yelapa; some bungalows go for $35/night, and the remote location ensures a secluded sojourn.
Surfers should skip this trip and head further north instead to Sayulita.
Marina
The area between the airport and downtown is known as the “Hotel Zone”. A little closer to the airport lie the tranquil waters of the Marina, home to a bevy of boats, a range of hotels and an 18 hole PGA certified golf course. Condos are for rent and for sale.
This area is quiet and peaceful but much of the beach frontage is property of the larger hotels and has been sectioned off in small chunks. Boaters seeking peace and quiet will be enchanted with the Marina community. A few good restaurants and shop encircle the water – try El Faro, the lighthouse restaurant with a lovely view. WalMart and Sam’s Club are nearby.
If you plan to stay until New Year’s, consider joining the snazzy celebrations at the Marina for a block party effect. Multi-colored confetti, balloons and whistles are universal party favors for welcoming in an AÃ?±o Nuevo to remember.
Dining
For the risk-averse, Vallarta offers a few American chains such as Outback Steakhouse, McDonald’s and Carl’s Jr. Residents and visitors rave about local favorites CafÃ?© de Artistes, El ArrayÃ?¡n, Boca Bento, Barcelona Tapas and Dolce Vita. Honorable mentions also go to Pipi’s, De Santos, The Blue Shrimp and Bodega del Medio.
Nightlife
Zoo, Hilo, Cristine’s and Collage are the perennial favorites for clubbing. A number of small spaces downtown offer dancing and drink specials, stroll the MalÃ?©con and take your pick.
Nuevo Vallarta
Zip across the Jalisco/Nayarit state line and venture into a new time zone along with the growing luxury community of Nuevo Vallarta. All-inclusive resorts and five-star accommodation pepper the pretty coastline. The farther North you go, the better the beaches get. If it’s aqua water and white sand you crave, book a stay in Nuevo and save downtown for a day trip or two. Shopping here is more upscale and more expensive than downtown.
Armed with this information, your holiday season in Puerto Vallarta should be full of peace, joy and happiness. Feliz Navidad!
