City of Pompeii Lives Again
The place was Pompeii, south of Naples in Italy. For Modestus and his contemporaries, the normal routine was abruptly halted by malicious gods, known to modern man as a major eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. That ominous event put Aug. 24, 79 A.D., in the history books and Pompeii on many tourist itineraries.
Pompeii is alive again, alive with curious visitors and a few equally curious dogs, trotting along the worn streets seeking picnic hand-outs.
With a full day, sturdy shoes and a comprehensive guidebook, Pompeii can be explored independently. Those who choose to see the city in this way, won’t be disappointed. In a tour group with dozens of people, you miss the opportunity to experience the resounding stillness of an remote side street and you pass up the chance to explore the nooks and alleyways which make up this once affluent city.
The scientific work of Guiseppe Fiorelli has left a remarkable legacy. Scattered at locations around Pompeii are the plaster casts of individuals, and at least one dog, who died the day of the eruption.
Since the decomposed remains left hollow spaces in the hard ash, Fiorelli concluded if he poured liquid plaster into the space and allowed it to solidify, a replica would be produced.
The dried plaster took on the exact proportions of the space and the end result is the image of a body, including minute details of facial expressions, hair and clothing. These plaster models are a macabre reminder of nature’s devastating power.
Homes of the wealthy inhabitants of Pompeii offer a glimpse of luxury living in 79 A.D.
Although the exterior appears ordinary, the interior is anything but. It was common at the time to incorporate luxuriant gardens inside the house. They were embellished with ornamental plants, flowers, fountains and statuary.
Elaborate mosaics covered the floors. The walls frequently displayed scenes of Greek mythology, in vivid colors or reds, blue yellows and black.
Little wall space is left without some type of decoration. The houses usually faced inward with few windows, but natural light filtered into the main hall or atrium through an opening in the roof.
One opulent residence, now designated the House of the Vettii, was first excavated in 1894.
Evidence indicates it was the home of two brothers, grown rich through trade. Thanks to protection of fallen beams and roofs, the interior artwork was preserved in an exceptional state. It seems inconceivable that colors can remain brilliant after being buried and untouched for 1700 years.
One mural depicts an infant Hercules killing the serpent. His curly blond hair and cherub features are clearly visible. A long panel contains paunchy Cupids working at gold and glass, while another has winged Cupids riding in a coach drawn by dolphins.
Pompeii, considered a thriving, prosperous city at the time of the eruption, had its own variation of fast food, called thermopolia which translates to snack bar. Along the narrow roads, visitors today can see numerous food counters facing the street and it is easy to visualize the citizens of Pompeii pausing to partake of a noontime meal.
Small business flourished in Pompeii. No less than one hundred inns have been found there. Twenty wine merchants have been identified.
All facets of the wool industry were represented, including dyeing and weaving. Other shops housed bakers, (our hard-working Modestus), fishmongers, dry-cleaners and banks.
Similar to humans of any age, Pompeiians felt the urge to leave their mark. Thousands of examples of graffiti are still visible on the walls of the city. A significant portion relates to the annual elections held every March. Of one candidate it was written, “He stands for good bread.” A blithe comment reads: “Everyone writes on the walls except me,” proving a good sense of humor transcends all continents, centuries and cultures. To maintain these precious scribbling from the distant past, most of the graffiti is now covered in heavy, protective plastic.
Roman ingenuity, still in evidence throughout Europe, provided running water to all areas of the city. At street intersections, public fountains spouted clean water.
Both pleasing to the eye and functional, several well-worn examples remain today. Because rubbish and dirty water flowed in the roadway, stepping stones were placed at intervals in the middle of the street, positioned so that cart wheels could easily pass on either side of them.
Cultural activities were available to the citizens of Pompeii. The city has both a large and small theater, with the larger having a 5,000-seat capacity.
A canopy was erected to protect the audience from the harsh Italian sun. Below the orchestra, excavations have uncovered ponds and basins for water, which scientists believe were used to transform the area for marine scenes.
To date, only part of Pompeii has been unearthed. Who knows what else lies beneath the mounds of centuries old debris?
This metropolis, ravaged by the forces of nature, gives the visitor many things; intrigue, history, culture, architecture and a tangible link to the past.
Is it morbid fascination which brings people from around the globe to a ruined city where thousands perished?
That aspect is certainly unique, but most would say it’s the rare opportunity to observe the lifestyle of our ancient counterparts. With their fast food, insightful graffiti, and their theaters we are left with clear evidence of just how similar human beings are in 79 A.D. or 2006.
The common bonds are there, for better or worse. That captivates us.
A poignant fragment of graffiti from Pompeii reads:
“Nothing lasts forever,
though the sun shines gold,
it must sink into the sea.
The moon has also disappeared
which but now so brightly gleamed.
So if the loved one rages,
hold fast, this storm will soon yield,
to the soft Zephyr.”
