Climbing Mount Vesuvius in Naples, Italy
Climbing Mount Vesuvius is even more amazing than gazing at its peaks from below. Hiking to the summit makes a great daytrip from Naples, Sorrento or the southern part of the Lazio region. The adventure of climbing the volcano will be more comfortable and enjoyable if you know what to expect and bring along.
Ancient and Amazing
For most of us, the destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum in 79 A. D. is the only historic event we can connect to Mount Vesuvius. Ancient Romans did not believe that Mount Vesuvius was an active volcano. They did not realize that the earthquakes they felt in August of 79 were signs of an impending eruption. The two-day eruption, which began on August 24, took the citizens of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Naples completely by surprise.
The famous historian and naturalist, Pliny the Elder, died in the eruption. Fortunately, he was able to write down his observations and send them to his nephew, Pliny the Younger, before he perished. Pliny the Younger also wrote of his own experiences during the eruption in letters to the Roman historian Tacitus. Both men described an incredible column of gas, smoke and ash, as well as flying debris and rocks that fell from the sky. The pyroclastic flow from the eruption completely buried Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Mount Vesuvius has erupted many times since 79 A. D. The eruption of 1631 was particularly destructive; over 4,000 people died. Today, Italian disaster preparedness experts base their evacuation and response plans for a future eruption on this event.
The volcano last erupted in 1944, during the Allied battles for control of Italy in World War II. Today, several volcanic observatory stations monitor the seismic activity of Mount Vesuvius and the Naples area around the clock.
Preparing for Your Climb
Climbing the volcano is the best way to understand its significance and power. Fortunately, it is easy to reach the base of the volcano. Hiking up to the summit is more difficult, but most people in good health will have little trouble reaching the top of Mount Vesuvius.
Packing well will enhance your appreciation of the climb to the crater of Mount Vesuvius. Comfortable shoes are your top priority. The hike up the volcano has a 14 percent grade and is on a dusty, graveled trail. The round trip will take two to three hours.
Weather conditions at the top of the volcano can be cold and windy; it is always a good idea to bring a light jacket with you. If you arrive on a very windy or stormy day, expect the trail to the crater to be closed. It is not safe to be on the edge of the crater when strong winds are blowing.
Sunscreen is a must at any time of year. In the spring, bring insect repellent as well. Swarms of gnats and mayflies will make you miserable if you do not plan ahead. Although you can purchase bottled water at the parking area, you will save money if you bring your own. Many people also pack picnic lunches to eat before or after their hike.
How to Get There
You can reach the base of the mountain by car or by bus. Buses leave from the piazza in front of the Ercolani Scavi (Herculaneum) station on the Circumvesuviana train line. Buses to the volcano leave approximately once per hour until about 2 p.m. Return buses leave the volcano parking area on a similar schedule beginning at about 11 a.m. The last bus leaves at approximately 5:50 p.m.
If you are driving, simply take the A3 Autostrada south from Naples to the Ercolano or Torre del Greco exit. Turn left toward the volcano and drive up the road. You will see signs for “Vesuvio” or “Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio”; most of the signs will be brown or yellow. Continue following the signs up the base of the mountain. About seven kilometers past the national park information point, you will come to a turn; take a left and proceed up the mountain to the parking area.
The winding road up to the volcano is narrow by American standards. Large tour buses zip up and down this road; you will need to watch out for them. There are places on the road that are narrow enough that you will not be able to go past an oncoming bus. Simply pull to the side of the road and let the descending bus pass.
Arrival and Parking
When you arrive at the parking area, you will need to pay the attendant in order to park your car. This will also be true if you park along the road leading to the dirt lot; the parking attendant will walk down to your car or catch you as you walk into the parking area.
You will see a bar and several souvenir stands in the parking lot. The only restrooms available on the trail are the well-maintained portable toilets next to one of these souvenir stands; you will be asked to pay approximately fifty euro cents to use them. There are no restroom facilities at the top of the mountain.
There are two more souvenir stands on the volcano and one at the midpoint. They all sell similar items; prices are a bit higher at the top of the volcano than down below. You can also buy wine made from grapes grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. It’s reasonably priced and quite good. Buy it later; right now, it’s time to climb!
The Climb
As you begin your hike, you will walk up a series of steep switchbacks. You will not need to pay a fee to take this part of the hike. You will quickly ascend the side of the volcano and leave most vegetation behind. The views are wonderful. On a clear day, you will be able to see the Bay of Naples and the city below.
About three-quarters of the way to the top, you will reach a ticket booth, conveniently located next to a souvenir stand. To hike all the way to the crater, you must buy a ticket. The signs at the ticket booth say that the hike to the crater is guided. This writer has never been accompanied by a guide and has made three trips to the top of Mount Vesuvius. There are, however, several official guides at the ticket booth, and they will give you advice and information about the crater if you ask for it.
Sit down and catch your breath for a moment while waiting to buy your ticket. The crater is not too far away!
When you finally reach the edge of the crater, you will be amazed at its size. If you are lucky enough to climb Mount Vesuvius on a clear day, you will be able to walk all around the edge of the crater and look down onto the Sorrento Peninsula and Pompeii. Take the time to look carefully into the crater itself. You may be rewarded by a glimpse of steam rising from the side of the crater.
You will be able to walk about three-quarters of the way around the rim of the crater. Look out at the city of Naples and remember the power of this volcano. Mount Vesuvius used to be quite a bit taller than it is today, but explosive eruptions blew several hundred feet of earth off the top of the mountain.
On your hike down, stop and look at the volcanic rock piled up on the side of the trail. Pick up a piece and look at it closely; most of the rock you’ll find is relatively light and full of air holes. Now, look down the slope of the volcano and notice the large rocks below. Imagine the eruption of 79 A. D., when huge boulders were flung from where you are standing all the way to the shores of the Bay of Naples!
Why not pick up a bottle or two of the local wine specialty, Lachryma Christi del Vesuvio? You can raise a glass to celebrate conquering the volcano when you reach your hotel.
Practicalities
The park is open from 9:00 A. M. until 3:00 P. M. in the winter. From April through June, the park stays open until 5:00 P. M., and from July to September 30, you can visit the crater until 6:30 P. M. Admission to the last part of the crater trail is Euro 6.50.
The Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio�¯�¿�½offers a beautiful web site with photos, trail information and the latest details on the park and local weather. Information is available in four languages, including English.
Website of Vesuvioinrete:�¯�¿�½ http://www.vesuvioinrete.it/e_index.htm
