Coober Pedy, Australia

Since February 1, 1915, when opals were first discovered in Coober Pedy, most of the world’s best gem-quality opals have come directly from the pits and ‘dugouts’ of this diverse and culturally rich town in the center of Australia’s Red Rock Center Outback. Of course, today, Coober Pedy relies equally on tourism as opals for employment and financial success. And, with good reason! Coober Pedy has much to offer the visitor! So much, in fact, I spent six wonderful days and nights exploring!

How to Get There

By Air: http://www.regionalexpress.com.au Air travel is great for a quick trip anywhere in the vast expanse of Australia, and the overview of the landscape unsurpassed, but I prefer the close up interaction with the land and people that I get by driving or other land travel options.

By Car: check into renting a caravan (mini-RV) at http://www.rv.com.au. Caravans come fully equipped for luxurious ‘camping’ and are a wonderful mode of transportation for your Outback Adventure! Caravanning was the mode that I chose, and I had a blast! I could (and did!) stop to watch a herd of kangaroos munching the grasses (and watching me), pulled off the highway to eat a fine picnic while listening to the silence, and slept comfortably in my pull down bed (with sheets and a pillow)- all for a little cash and a lot of rich experiences! Caravan parks abound in the Outback, many with internet services, swimming pools, community gathering spots and even, an occasional watering hole (pub).

By Train: Up from Adelaide on the South coast, straight up the the Red Rock Center of Australia’s Outback, The Ghan (originally, called the Afghan Express) is a mode of transportation that offers a glimpse into the days of old. The Ghan has a variety of accommodations for the overnight trip. http://www.gsr.com.au.

Where to Stay

Possibly, the most interesting and unique feature of Coober Pedy is the underground lodgings available. From a few small and cozy bed and breakfasts to a large hotel with art gallery, swimming pool and restaurants, and many authentic underground dwellings that are open to the public. Many, if not most, of the underground dugouts, were excavated by hand, using basic hand tools, such as pick and axe. By far, the most extensive hotel in Coober Pedy is the Desert Cave Hotel, http://www.desertcave.com.au, with both underground and above ground rooms, restaurants, bars, gift shop, galleries and opal digging tours. I just had to stay in one of their underground rooms, and was delighted with the high ceilings and feeling of spaciousness, as well as the cool temperatures, after a hot day aboveground. And, for a smaller more intimate experience, I thoroughly enjoyed Anne’s Bed & Breakfast! This great lodging is just off main street, and has easy access to all of Coober Pedy’s attractions. Anne’s has a great little pool, for cooling off after a day’s explorations, and you can view a mineshaft dug way back in the early days. When I stayed at Anne’s, the rates were the best in town, and the service excellent! And, if you have caravanned in, there are several excellent caravan parks (campgrounds for RVs) in Coober Pedy; Opal Inn Caravan Park and Oasis Caravan Park. Oasis has great internet service right at the sites, and a cooling swimming pool for recreation.

What to See and Do

My favorite ‘must-sees’ in Coober Pedy are many, but here are the top six!

Digger’s Dream Underground Home, one of the dugout homes excavated with modern heavy machinery, Digger’s Dream has all the modern conveniences.

Faye’s Underground Home, dug out the old-fashioned way, by pick and shovel, by three hardworking Coober Pedy women about 35 years ago, Faye’s is an amazing view into the indomitable strength of character of residents of this wild mining town.

Saint Peter & Paul’s Catholic Church, originally a non-denominational church used by many Coober Pedy residents, built as a collaborative effort. The world’s first underground church!

The Big Winch, an original piece of heavy equipment used in mining opals, the Big Winch has a terrific lookout that gives the visitor a superior overview of Cobber Pedy and the surrounding desert. Be sure to visit the opal store next door, and see the fossilized shells of opals still embedded in the walls.

The Dog Fence, ok, this isn’t exactly IN Coober Pedy, but nearby and well worth the short drive out! The Dog Fence is the longest contiguous manmade structure in the world, at 5,302 kilometers (3,295 miles). It was built to protect grazing animals (sheep and cattle) from the dingo (Australian wild dogs)

And, last of my six top favorites – Umoona Opal Mine & Museum! I spent an entire day here, enjoying everything from authentic ‘tucker‘ (food) to a grand tour of an opal mine. The historical progression of Coober Pedy is beautifully laid out in the unique and gorgeous underground museum. The Aboriginal Interpretive center mystifies and delights everyone who visits, with its many active and interactive displays and educational programs. (NOTE: This is THE place to buy opals and opal jewelry! I actually bought so much that they shipped it directly to my home in the ‘States” so I wouldn’t have to worry about carrying it all around! Of course, I kept a few special pieces to wear to the Opera in Sydney. ) The Umoona Opal Mine and Museum is definitely one place not to miss!

Where to Eat

The visitor to Coober Pedy will enjoy local and international cuisines of every style, all within a few square blocks. For authentic local tucker, head into a grocer shop and select your own picnic foods.

Coober Pedy, a distinctive and unique town in the middle of the Australian Outback, and definitely a place to visit! For more information, contact the Visitor Centre, their friendly staff is always ready to assist and inform! The Visitor Centre is right in ‘downtown’ Coober Pedy and open every day, or at info@opalcapitaloftheworld.com.au.

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