Discover Cafayate, Argentina

Cafayate, Argentina, in the province of Salta is a lesser-known, but becoming more popular, town in Argentina with some great things happening there. It’s starting to become better known due to the famed “torrontes” wine produced from the combination of proper temperatures and the humidity which provide the near perfect environment for the growth of grapes with sweet and deep fruit flavor. Tourism is becoming a more important part of the area.

You’ll want to explore the unique architecture of its cathedral, the stone mill, the main square with its blooming flowers, along with the wine museums. You can visit the wine cellars and taste the wine, enjoy a stroll in the Quilmes ruins, and the spectacular waterfalls of the two rivers, the Colorado River and the Santa Maria River. Nearby are the cities of Cachi, Salta and Coronel Moldes.

The elevation of the town is about 1500 feet above sea level, and is surrounded by vineyards with impressive mountains serving as a backdrop. In historic times, this was home to large numbers of native people and the missions of the Franciscan and Jesuit orders who settled there both before and after the CalchaquÃ?­es Wars. The town itself was built about in 1840 by Fernando de AramburÃ?º in a style including Baroque and Colonial of the late 1800’s. The cathedral is a magnificent building left from Colonial times with five naves.

The road that leads to Cafayate is a large tourist attraction. A recent archaeological investigation into the ravine unearthed a section of an Inca road located only a few yards off the National Route No. 68. Travelers, scholars and the Spanish conquerors have always been amazed at seeing this road, or parts of it, throughout history.

In the town itself there are sand dunes in whimsical shapes sculpted by the wind. They are especially beautiful when walking through the town in the moonlight. Walking through this town is a great way to learn about it, both in the moonlight and in the daylight.

And, surrounding the town, are the vineyards. These are the vines whose grapes create the “torrontes” wine. They also make Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec wines. Several wine cellars in town can be visited for free; some of them are La Banda, Bodega La Rosa, and Nanni. There are also excursions into some of the vineyards. You can often taste the wine in the age-old artisan way, right from the barrel. It’s also possible to try some of the traditional wines made from feet trampling the grapes at several of the small old style wine producers. The grape harvest occurs every March with great celebration throughout the region.

There are many festivals throughout the year in and around Cafayate. In January and February, the Fiesta de la Serenata takes place – children from all over the province come to enjoy the best folklore of the country. The “Holy Week” of Easter is a feast in honor of the Virgen del Rosario Virgin, the local Patron Saint. Its 1740’s image is held in the Cathedral church. Christmas, of course, is another reason for more festivities.

Besides wine tasting, and the walking to see the sand dune shapes, you’ll want to visit the Cathedral to marvel at its very unique architecture. There is a ranch called San Isidro which has a walking path with caverns with cave painting. One is known as the “piedra grabada de los numeros” which translates to “stone engraved with numbers.” The ruins of Tolombon is only a couple of miles away and definitely worth a visit. This is a pre Hispanic city and most of the remains are covered by shrubbery with stone walls depicting the shape of the rooms of the one-time fortress.

Further away is the road that will take you to the Quebrada del Rio de Las Conchas Ravine where you’ll see striking Rio de las Conchas Ravine and Los Medanos, tiny grains of sand formations that time has chiseled into the mountainside. These have been named – El Obelisco (the Obelisk), El Sapo (the frog), Los Castillos (the castles), etc. At the end of the Las Conchas Ravine is Alemania where the last train station branch of a brand of the Belgrano Railway ran from the city of Salta, heading south. Today, this little community is little more than a ghost town. From here, you can go a bit further to see the Cuevas Pintads de Guachipas Painted Caves, a historical monument exhibiting the cave painting artwork of the Santa Maria Culture.

There is also a mill, run by Jesuits, that is over 350 years old. It still works to this day grinding 200 kilos daily. Two circular stones about a meter wide form the structure of the mill and the cascading water going through a stone canal moves one of the stones. The resulting flour is made into three quality grades.

Check out the archaeological pieces at the Rodolfo Bravo Museum. And be sure to see the local items produced by local craftsmen at the artisan market. You’ll find pottery, works of silver, tapestries and other products made in the area. You can also arrange to go horseback riding, white water rafting (in season), and take tango lessons if you like. Try to attend a concert at the Casa de la Cultura, where you might find a European classical concert or an evening of South American classical music.

Patios de Cafayate Hotel and Spa is the best hotel in town. It’s listed as one of the world top hotels for 2006 by Conde Nast. It’s actually located on the grounds of the El Esteco Winery which dates back to 1892. It occupies the original Spanish colonial home of the estate. Here you’ll enjoy marvelous views of the vineyards and the Calchaqui Valley. The hotel property itself has beautiful gardens and expanses of lush lawn. Their lobby is of traditional architecture filled with many antiques and there is a library, restaurant, the Wine Bar, a cigar lounge, gym, and swimming pool for your pleasure. There is also a spa, the Winespa, on the premises and many of their therapies are wine-based. Each room or suite has beautiful antiques, artisan carpets, ceramic floors, individual air conditioning controls, cable TV and wireless internet access. A business center and meeting rooms are also available. The restaurant’s chef serves dishes passed down from generations past and created with local products. (Visit starwoodhotels.com for more information.)

Another hotel is the Hotel Solar de la Plaza which has a good central location in town. Their suites are located in the original colonial building but most of the guest rooms are in a new wing also built in the colonial style. There is a very basic gym and a lovely rooftop pool which has great views of the area. Breakfast is included and there is a restaurant on the property which is very good.

The Hotel del Antiquo Convento is about a 10 minute walk from the main plaza and only a few doors down from the Convent on Calle Caseros. It’s beautiful although small. The rooms are large and simple with pale walls and black wrought iron furniture. The rooms either look out onto a courtyard full of blooming flowers and greenery or onto a small garden with a swimming pool.

The climate here is usually pretty mild and dry. The rainy season is from December to March.

It’s difficult to reach most of these hotels, so I’d recommend a travel agent to assist you with your plans.

Bon Voyage!