Down Amish Country Roads, Northern Indiana
Northern Indiana is home to the third largest Amish settlement in the United States. A few days spent in this area can restore a fatigued city-dweller and at the same time, offer a glimpse into the unusual lifestyle and history of the Amish and Mennonite people.
The small communities of Middlebury, Nappanee, Wakarusa and Shipshewana all lie in Amish country. Tourism has grown up around the Amish people. Although the Amish do not participate in tourism directly, it’s still possible to experience the simple pleasures of this rural setting. Restaurants, shops and other attractions are primarily operated by those outside the faith, who attempt to represent all that is positive about the unique lifestyle of the Amish. One does not necessarily have to be in the lap of an Amish person to appreciate the surroundings and their special way of life.
Mennonites and Amish are two religious groups which grew out of the Anabaptist movement dating from 1525. Mennonites generally lead average lifestyles, have normal jobs and wear regular clothing, while the Amish have resisted and continue to resist advances of the 20th century. Often misunderstood, the Amish are still occasionally harassed and have been treated like side-show freaks. Impatient drivers, in particular, get frustrated with horse-drawn buggies and accidents do occur.
Try as they might, many outsiders cannot fathom why the Amish want to continue in their old, familiar ways, but the fact is they do, though they never attempt to foist it upon others. Peaceful co-existence is a tenet of their faith.
The Amish are self-sufficient, unpretentious people wishing only to be left to their own convictions. They value their privacy and firmly believe progress, at least certain aspects of it, may not be in the best interest of keeping families together.
The Amish “religion” is a lifestyle choice, permeating every aspect of their daily existence, from their homes to their clothing to their hairstyles. A beard on an Amish man, for example, indicates he is married. The women wear dresses of plain colors, ranging from light pastels to black, depending largely upon the age of the wearer. A prayer cap is worn at all times and a black bonnet is sometimes worn over the cap. Estimates indicate there are twice as many Amish now, as there were in 1970. As of 1993, there were more than 220 settlements in 22 states and Canada.
Over the years, it became evident that some outsiders in northern Indiana were sincerely curious about the origins and long-standing traditions of the Amish. So, in the fall of 1986, in an effort to answer these questions, hundreds of Amish craftsmen gathered together in Shipshewana for a barn raising, although this big red barn was not destined to house bales of hay or livestock. The barn became part of the Menno-Hof Visitors Center, which officially opened in May 1988. Today, it’s the best way for onlookers visiting the area to educate themselves about Amish heritage and religious doctrine.
In fitting with their beliefs, the Menno-Hof was produced using simple mallets and wooden pegs, rather than hammer and nails. The unusual name is derived from Menno Simons, the leader who brought stability to the early Anabaptist movement, combined with “Hof,” the German word for farmstead.
A major portion of the center is dedicated to explaining the tumultuous history of a people searching for peace.
One room depicts a replica of a dungeon where individuals were imprisoned, tortured and executed because of their desire for a church free from state control. Another section contains a reproduction of a 17th century sailing ship, cramped quarters and all, similar to one used in 1683, when the first group set out for the new world. These history lessons are given in small doses, so all ages, including children will find the experience more entertaining by far, than a standard history lesson.
Just across the street from the Menno-Hof, in Shipshewana, is the flea market. It began in the 1920s when Amish farmers came to town to buy and trade livestock.
The market, which has grown over the years to an incredible 1,000 booths, gains more fame each year, primarily because of its incredible size. Considered one of the largest of its kind in the nation, the market has 60 acres set aside just for parking!
The flea market runs every Tuesday and Wednesday from May to October, sometimes longer, depending on the weather.
Estimates say more than 25,000 shoppers visit the market each day. Since it’s spread over 15 acres and has extra wide aisles, it doesn’t seem crowded.
Around the perimeter, field after field is lined with tour buses, RVs and cars, carrying license plates from practically every state. A serious bargain- hunter will find spices, a wide variety of clothing, craft items, dolls, leather goods, jewelry, straw flowers and other items.
For well over 100 years the sun has risen on the farm houses at Amish Acres, in Nappanee.
This historic homestead, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, allows you to get a true look at how our ancestors lived. It’s thought to be the only Amish homestead listed on the register in the entire United States. Most visitors begin by viewing a documentary film about the Amish community titled Beyond The Buggy.
Amish Acres offers demonstrations of lye soap making, quilting, weaving, candle-dipping and broom making. You can board a horse-drawn buggy for a relaxing ride down the long lane. The restaurant features family-style dining, and year round, Amish Acres presents a live musical production in its round barn theater. The theater is actually a state of the art facility hidden within the framework and of a real round barn. The stage area is housed in the original hand-hewed timber straw shed, which was added to the barn shortly after its construction in 1911.
While there you can explore the shops for hand-made items, toys, calico cloth and tinware, among other things. More than 100 local craftspeople supply the shops with their products and creations. Two of the most popular items to purchase while in Amish country are quilts and Amish-made furniture.
Because of their philosophy and desire for privacy, a majority of the Amish don’t mingle with outsiders any more than absolutely necessary. In fact, one of their slogans is “Good fences make good community.” However, as you drive the roads of Amish country, you’ll frequently see signs posted outside of farm houses offering such items as home-baked pies or home grown produce for sale. This quick and informal exchange with outsiders is acceptable to their belief system and one way you can have direct contact with the Amish.
While in the area, remember to respect the ideology and the safety of the Amish. Adults prefer not to be photographed, as it makes them very uncomfortable. In addition, little or no business is conducted on Sundays, so some stores and restaurants will be closed. Since you’ll be sharing the road with slow-moving buggies, motorists are urged to drive with extreme caution, especially when cresting a hill. Keep in mind too, the Amish of northern Indiana are not putting on a show for our benefit, this is their real life. Though tourism has touched their lives, it does not alter them.
The Elkhart County Convention and Visitors Bureau now has a self-guided, audio-cassette driving tour available. Following the Heritage Trail, you’ll drive through a 90-mile loop of winding local roads that pass through the fascinating communities and country side of northern Indiana, Amish territory. The guidebook and accompanying
