Driving in Beijing, China

You’ll hear the same thing from so many people who’ve relocated to Beijing, especially those originating in North America: “I really miss driving”. Well, no wonder, when you think about it. These people, as I, became used to having their own set of wheels for so long, getting to grips with a reality where, supposedly, holding on to a car is nearly impossible left them a bit traumatized.

\But this is a myth. Sure, most “foreigners” (I really dislike using this word) will tell newcomers how unimaginably difficult it is to obtain a license, let alone a vehicle in China. On top of this, there seems to exist a consensus regarding the horrors of traffic in China. But again, these facts are completely misleading, as I was determined to prove ever since coming here four months ago.

With the help of two friends (one a visiting scientist from Korea, the other an IT industry Beijinger), I set upon this Herculean task late September.

Why? Obvious reasons. I’m here for the long run, and therefore cannot imagine a life devoid of independent transport. Having your own car expedites matters significantly, and immensely extends your radius of exploration, enabling a person to discover more. A car lets you hang out in Sanlitun until the wee hours, free from the travails and expense of hopping on a taxi, if nothing else.

I could tell you dozens more reasons, but most of them you know. The foremost motivation driving me, though, was my lifelong passion for cars. Yes, I admit to be a car fanatic. Being separated from my US-bound Chevy Caprice SuperSport was enough bad news, I just couldn’t swallow a lifestyle minus the ride.

Every Journey Begins with a Little Form

Be aware that, while not difficult, this procedure calls for some paperwork and thus will require patience on the would be driver’s part. It isn’t, as some rumor mills suggest, prohibitively expensive.

Contrary to what the good folks at the AAA (American Automobile Association) told me, an international driver’s license wasn’t enough at the time of my application. This may change in the future, but right now one must get a standard-issue PRC license like everyone else. I was glad to learn of this, as one of my main problems is feeling different, and thus holding the same card as the next driver was accepted as a blessing. It is, needless to say, mandatory to already hold a license from your native country.

Prior to engagement, make sure you have about RMB200 for the various fees, and 12 passport photos. You won’t need all of them, but better play it safe.

First, you have to go to the Foreign Affairs Office of the Beijing Bureau of Motor Vehicles. They’re just off the North 5th Ring Road. Exit at Anli/Beiyuan and follow the frontage road (fu lu) until you’ll see them on your right. They’re on the second floor, and their number is 84813002 or 8481409. It’s a good idea to show up with someone who speaks Chinese if you don’t, as they may not be able to give you good service otherwise. Right now this is the only Beijing location taking non-citizens or residents (I will not use the F wordâÂ?¦).

Pick up the application form. Then it’s onwards to the physical exam at a hospital of your choice. Don’t worry, it differs radically from the one required by new residents. This one mostly focuses (no pun intended) on eyesight, and takes ten minutes.

Move on to translate your original license into Chinese. My friend and myself thought this means any trans service will suffice, but we were wrong, forcing us to backtrack and lengthening the process needlessly. Heed my words: use the one suggested by the bureau, they do a fast job, are friendly, and know exactly what is needed and what isn’t. Use another service at your own risk, it may not be acceptable. They’re called FESCO, and can be found east of the Jianguomen subway station off the East 2nd Ring Road in Chaoyang. Phone is 65086663. FESCO will also offer to continue the process on your behalf, but unless you’re loaded I would advise a polite “no thank you”.

Back to the bureau we go, clutching all this precious paperwork for fear of losing anything. Time to hand in the pile, having filled the app form, attached the photos etc. Now you have to make an appointment for a driving test.

These occur twice a week (Wednesday and Friday) at 9:30 AM, but call on the examinees to arrive 30 minutes ahead of time. You may need to wait up to 3 weeks for your scheduled date.

As an aside, in my case the above mentioned took roughly three weeks, from app form to test. You may accomplish it quicker if you’re efficient enough.

The test itself wasn’t conceived to fail anyone, rather it aspires to make sure you’re not a complete disaster behind the wheel, so please relax. Be warned if you fail twice, though, it may result in permanent disqualification.

It takes place about 2 kilometers North of Li Shui Qiao (Lishui bridge, for the uninitiated) in Yayuncun. Once again, better call on your Chinese-savvy friends for aid, especially since finding this place can be a challenge.

Spend ten minutes inside a classy 1980’s Toyota Crown with a couple of fellow would-be drivers and a (in my case) kind instructor, demonstrate sane, competent driving and you’re home. North Americans sometimes encounter a problem since the car, like most in China, boasts a manual transmission.

Upon success, head back to the bureau to pick up your much-anticipated license. Now that was easy, wasn’t it?
From then on, it’s nothing but open (well, occasionally congested, alright?) road.

Jingle Beep Jingle Beep

Since we’re already in a festive mood, might as well ask Santa for a new car. Unless you have one, now is the part where you start looking for a set of wheels. This does present a formidable challenge. Dealers can be found anywhere, but concentrations exist in the Yayuncun Car Trading Center and in Fengtai (West 3rd Ring Road). However, if you don’t have a Beijing I.D they will not extend credit (as won’t the banks), so prepare cash, if possible. A lot of cash.

A taxi-like Xiali costs around RMB70,000 after tax, a Santana 2000 runs 190,000 and if you’re really discerning, you can go all out for an Audi A8. Only RMB1.5 million. Hey, I said getting the license isn’t pricey, but that quite clearly doesn’t include the car. These examples represent the range you’ll find on the market currently. To hear most locals tell it, purchasing used might be a risky business given the rigors of Beijing daily driving, but I have no experience with this niche so I cannot enlighten you more.

I recommend having the dealer conduct all the registration and plating process after signing the deal. This will add some to the price tag, but is well worth the hassle saved. Unless you have some special status or a Chinese passport, you will most likely receive a black plate, making you stand out from the crowd for better or worse.

Another option might be renting a car. Long term is available and encouraged, with most rental companies providing unlimited mileage, insurance and roadside assistance. Check the car before leaving, as many aren’t new, and quite a few will have noticeable problems. I found service to be good and prompt, yet it does carry a hefty price tag. A small Xiali or Flyer (similar to Suzuki Alto) will run you RMB2800-3000 per month, a new Jetta 4500-5500, and a Santana 2000’s roughly RMB5000-6000. These prices lower by some ten percent if you agree to a six month deal, but there’s no avoiding a big deposit of at least 3000, unless you have the all-conquering Beijing I.D.

Where the Streets Have No U-turn

Finally, here’s a brief summary of my take on driving in and around Beijing for almost a couple of months.

Let’s begin by dispelling some myths. The one about police never pulling over or even talking to non-Chinese drivers must be top on the list. I was stopped twice for inspection, and discovered the officers spoke English on both occasions.

Also, traffic in Beijing shouldn’t offend anyone who knows anything about big cities ANYWHERE. I lived in Chicago before, and thus wasn’t too surprised. Sure, it can be hellish at times (especially if it snows), but then again what do you expect from a town this big?

Road rules in China do not differ drastically from those of most other countries, and in fact are almost identical to the US, with the exception of being able to go straight on a red light at a t-intersection. Be careful whenever starting at a green light, as the drivers turning left into your path also have a green, but they more often than not try to squeeze in there in the nick of time, overlooking your right of way.

Overall, people obey the rules just as much as anywhere else I’ve seen. One thing I really took to liking about Chinese driving habits has to be the more fluid nature of traffic. Motorists exhibit flexibility when moving around, and have a greater degree of accommodation for their fellows. The first time you’ll go inside a traffic circle downtown you’ll know exactly what I mean. Just don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled, use those turn signals and never sleep on the job, if you catch my drift. Going with the flow and always figuring out your surroundings makes Beijing/China driving more of a challenge than the rigid Western style, but also much more of a fun learning experience.

This, in part, relies on communicating with others behind the wheel, and I don’t mean using cell phones, so be sure to have working high-beams and horn.

Distances in Beijing aren’t too great and can be traversed easily given little traffic. However, some places have complicated arrangements for the driver to work around. Try to avoid Xi Dan, Wangfujing and Chang An Ave, as all have numerous regulations and limitations.

Most of Beijing’s larger streets have been partitioned by medians with rare turn openings, forcing you to trek far for a U-turn if you passed your destination by mistake. Same holds true for our ring roads. While generally fast, they do cut the city into ribbons, and at times it’s difficult to get around them.

As was said before, other drivers do not present too much of a threat, as they are acutely aware of each other, even if it doesn’t seem so. Furthermore, Chinese cars have all been gifted with mysteriously reliable brakes and tires, adding volumes to one’s road running confidence.

You should worry about cyclists and pedestrians. Don’t ask me why, but these seem to believe they have been gifted with immortal invincibility, acting more than a little careless on a regular basis. All too often you’ll encounter people who completely ignore the very existence of cars on the road, forgetting how inherently dangerous that is.

Many claim speeds are lower in China, yet I disagree. Yes, buses and trucks here crawl along at an incredibly low speed, but private cars are as speedy as anywhere. Go on the expressway and you’ll quickly understand my point, in particular outside Beijing proper, where larger cars rocket along quite nicely, thank you.

This brings us neatly to my final point: the cost of driving here on a daily basis.

Using expressways certainly hikes up your expenditure, as you’ll average RMB15-20 per day. This isn’t cheap, but you’ll save time and nerves as these roads never seem to be jammed, unlike their gratis counterparts. This is opposite from the US situation, where people take streets to avoid packed expressways.

Finally, don’t forget to pay for gas. It’s a lot better than the stuff I was used to in the States, starting with 90 octane, up to 97. Most cars will take 93, which right now is RMB2.59 per liter. Serious users will cough up at least RMB20 per day in fuel costs. Gas stations are all full-serve, and most also act as little convenience stores. Increasingly you’ll run into Mobil or Shell outlets selling Western stuff like Snickers et al, but none that I’ve seen had any inclination to accept credit cards, something which needs to change, and fast.

Bon Voyage

Hope this helped spur you on towards a more motorized mindset.

Certainly I see nothing wrong with the bus (well, maybe it’s a tad crowdedâÂ?¦), but for me there’s really no better solution.
Here’s hoping to see more of you out there on the not-so-mean streets.

Except during rush hour, of course.