Everything You Need to Know for a Great Front Door Varnish Job
Even the best protected front door can show a little age or wear over time. Follow a few simple refinishing rules and you can bring the door back to better than new condition. If you’ve waited too long and need to replace the door the same basic rules apply. This is everything you need to know to get a great varnish job on the old front door.
The door must fit and be in good repair.
Make sure all butt plate (hinge) screws tighten firmly. Check door fit from the hinge pin side (the door opens toward you). There should be 1/8″ gap on top and both sides. The edges of the door should have a slight relief angle for clearance so the back corner doesn’t catch as the door opens. The door bottom should slide easily but firmly over the threshold gasket. The door knob latch bolt should center in and catch the strike plate with little movement or rattle when closed. If these items are satisfactory then you’re ready to refinish the door.
The basics of a good front door varnish job.
The reason for finishing a door is to seal, stabilize, enhance and display the unique beauty of wood or craftsmanship-such as carving or inlay.
Sealing a door (varnish) stabilizes the wood so it won’t swell and shrink during different seasons. Failure to seal the door top and bottom is the single biggest mistake in door finishing.
Apply varnish to a clean, dry and smooth surface. Sanding helps smooth the surface and provides “tooth” for varnish. You may need to feather some areas. If the old varnish is scaling varnish remover may be the solution. All corners and edges need to be slight rounded so the finish will not “cut.” Sharp edges thin the finish so much that it easily splits or curls back when bumped with any hard object. This is not quickly apparent but is one reason why some varnish jobs wear so quickly on the edges.
How the homeowner can do as good or better than a professional.
I left out varnish and brush type in the basics of a good job for a reason. There are any number of very good varnishes. Some are very expensive. I prefer to recommend oil based spar varnish with UV protection that you can get at almost any big box store. The reason is availability, cost, easy application and adequate performance. This is the same type of varnish I use on the many kayaks and canoes I build. For general brushing the varnish should be thinned very slightly-about half a cup of thinner to quart of varnish.
The brush should be 2″, square cut, firm bristled with soft ends that allow varnish to be brushed out in very thin coats. Pick one up, squeeze the bristles, stroke it in your hand, see how it feels. Eventually you’ll figure out what you like. An adequate brush costs from $5 on up. Whatever makes you happy.
Apply varnish in thin coats always working to a wet edge. This should not be a problem with an oil based varnish.
This is where application by professional and homeowner can differ. The professional has time constraints and may use different materials and tools. The homeowner not so much.
Instructions on the varnish can usually say to re-coat in an hour or two. I think this is too quick. If I apply a coat early in the morning, I may do another coat that evening. I check. If the finish is tender I wait till the next day. Sand between coats with a fine sanding pad.
Three brushed coats is adequate in most cases. If you have the skill the surface will be smooth and bright. For many people the job is done.
If you want a better job the final stage is wiping varnish. Thin the original varnish half and half with thinner. Make a tennis ball size wad of soft cotton cloth (an old T-shirt). Dip the cloth ball in thinned varnish and wipe on leaving no excess. Two or three coats of wiped varnish will give a smooth, deep luster. Use the sanding pad between coats. Few professional painters can or will do this, after all-it’s only a door, and they’ve got to get on to the next job. But as a homeowner you can take the time. It will be noticeable, and something you can be proud of.
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