Gay Moscow: Bars and Clubs in This Center of the Gay Russian Subculture

When we Americans think of Moscow, we picture snowy days at the Kremlin and the onion-shaped domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral. We taste cabbage soup and vodka. We remember the Cold War, the KGB, and our fear of communism. We do not, however, think of gay Moscow nightlife. But since Russian society has gradually warmed to gay citizens, Moscow has emerged as the center of the gay Russian subculture. Even during Soviet times, Moscow’s large size made it the natural home for underground gay nightlife, with certain bars and clubs serving as unofficial gay Moscow hotspots. Now that bars and clubs can more publicly cater to gays without fear of reprisal, gay Moscow is getting louder and prouder by the day. While homophobia is still present in Russian society (and practically everywhere else), gay Moscow life is far more comfortable and accepted than ever. In fact, 2006 marks Moscow’s first large-scale gay pride festival.

Here are some of the most popular gay bars and clubs in this city of 10 million:

Bar 911
Glinechtchevski 3
Descend into this club from the red awning and emerge into a bar full of rescue-themed dÃ?©cor, including an emergency helicopter. Though it began as a one-night gay hangout, 911 has become an everynight gay club. This combination restaurant, video bar, and dance club is popular with gay Moscow professionals and tourists. 911 is also one of the bars that gay Russian soldiers frequent when trying to make extra money, so don’t freak out if you see guys in army gear. They’re just hoping you’re generous and interested in hiring them to be your escort.

12 Volt Club
Tverskaya 12
www.12voltclub.ru (site is in Russian, but you can see pictures)
Though a relative newcomer to the Moscow gay scene, 12 Volt caught on fast and bolted to the forefront. Known for its diverse crowd, friendly to gays, lesbians, and heteros alike, it servers up food, stiff drinks, and a solid mix of poppy dance music.

Samolvolka
Novaya Basmannaya 9
When translated from Russian, the name of this bar means something like our military term AWOL, or Absent Without Leave. Servers and bartenders don quasi-military outfits, and the d�©cor is army-themed. Samolvolka features strippers and a hammam in the basement, so it flushes out the sleazier side of gay Moscow.

New Age (previously Three Monkeys)
www.gaycentral.ru (site is only in Russian)
Nastavnicheskiy 11
Fashionable Moscow queers party at New Age, where sex and drugs seem to be the main themes. You’ll find drag shows, strippers, and some trashy pretension – but you’ll have a memorable time.

Dary Moria / Gifts of the Sea
Maly Gnezdikovski 9
This is one of the oldest gay bars in all of Russia. During Soviet times, gays gathered here, often referring to themselves and to the bar by using code words, like “Fishes.” Nowadays, Dary Moria is popular with all kinds of clientele: sharp young Moscow professionals, genteel older men, hustling male prostitutes, and of course: tourists! This is more of a bar than a dance club, so don’t expect a DJ.

Caf�© Stereo
Chayanova 22
www.cafestereo.ru (site is in Russian, but you can see pictures)
Visit the sleek website for this all-hours bar, where music and mood are fresh. This isn’t a campy bar; it’s a chic lounge with an exquisite interior.

Baza
Milyutinskiy 6
“The Base” is a small and somewhat dingier bar known for its regular after-midnight drag shows.