Hampi: A World Heritage Site

It saw the imperial magnificence of its rulers.
It saw the splendor of the one of the greatest empires in History.
It saw rich patrons of art and architecture.
Then it saw the wrath of the Muslim invaders�
�and lay pillaged and burnt after conquest.
It now sees restoration and protection efforts�
�and wonder in the eye of a tourist like me.

If ruins could speak, Hampi would have a lot to say. Hampi was the capital of one of the most powerful empires of the post moghul period – Vijayanagara. This 14th century city lies in the Deccan heartland in Karnataka in South India. The magnificent ruins spread over 26 sq. kms. lie south of the Tungabadhra River and nestled in a natural fortress of rocky terrain. This is also believed to have been the site of the battle between Bali and Sugreeva in the kingdom of Kishkinda in the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. I was convinced this was true after seeing the number of monkeys among the ruins.

I was there as the first rays of light appeared in the night sky. The Virupaksha temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is still worshipped by the people. As I walk among the sadhus sitting along the entrance that led to the inner sanctum sanctorum, I noticed the rays of light fall on the surrounding pillars and shrines. Hampi is the abode of Lord Virupaksha and is known as Virupakshapura, Vidyanagara or Vijayanagara. The kings of Vijayanagara were great patrons of art and architecture. The city was founded in 1336 by the brothers Hakka and Bukka with the help of the Hindu sage Vidyaranya after they were released from prison by the Sultan of Delhi, Mohammad bin Tuglak.

Four dynasties ruled over Vijayanagara from 1336 – 1565 A.D. On one hand the once powerful kingdoms like Hoysalas, the Pandyas, and the Yadavas were on the decline while on the other Vijayanagara rose to be powerful. The first rulers were the Sangamas who ruled from 1336 – 1485 A.D. They extended the kingdom from Gulbarga to Sri Lanka and from Orissa to Malabar. The Saluvas’ rule saw the empire lose some of its splendor due to its weak rulers and political usurpations until 1491 A.D. The Tuluvas restored most of its lost magnificence during their rule from 1491 – 1570 A.D. The most popular king of this time Krishnadevaraya, belonged to this dynasty. The Aravidus ruled from 1571 – 1646. Commander Rama Raya belonged to this dynasty. The kingdom grew in strength resisting invasions until 1565 when Commander Rama Raya was defeated by a confederation of Muslim kings in the battle of Rkkasa-Tangadi. After his death in the battle of Rakkasa – Tangadi, the capital was shifted to Penukonda. This disastrous defeat has left its mark in the ruins that can still be seen today. The power of the ruins is such that its leaves the tourist in awe and respect for the monuments for having witnessed so much.

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