Home Remodeling Basics and How to Plan Room by Room
In planning individual rooms, common sense often determines the appropriateness of space and furniture arrangement. There are several overall considerations to remember:
It is important you consider key activity centers. Some rooms serve a single function only; others may have several uses. Imagine how your household members might use each room- for conversation, reading, game playing, television viewing, sleeping, and so forth. Also consider where guests tend to gather.
What is the physical space like? Is the room large enough? Is it too large? If so, there may be visual and auditory problems. What is the shape of the room? Are the proportions pleasant? In general it’s best to keep room shapes simple for effective use of space and low construction costs.
How can you affect living quality? Does the room offer more than function? Its size, shape, placement and size of windows and doors all contribute to the overall feeling. Are the views distracting? Is the light appropriate? Does the space suggest activity, rest, or interaction?
It’s vital you do not overlook the details. Minor details can make a big difference in how a room works. For example, do the doors swing the right way? Do they cause awkward disruptions? You may have enough light switches and electrical outlets, but are they accessible? Are closet space and storage adequate? Are several furniture arrangements possible?
Do you have enough light and ventilation? Would a skylight or more windows help? Is the artificial lighting adequate? Even if you have air conditioning, each room should have natural ventilation as well.
Can you improve energy efficiency? Do windows face south for heat gain in colder areas? Is shading from trees available? Do ceiling height and expansive window areas affect heat loss?
As you go room by room developing your plans, draw some floor plan sketches and take them along. One good way to play with alternative room arrangements is to make templates on graph paper. They needn’t be exactly to scale, but the walls, fixtures, built-ins, and furniture should be reasonably proportional.
What about kitchens? First, consider the overall purpose of your kitchen. Is it to be a work center only? Second, decide which type of eating arrangement you prefer. Do you want a breakfast nook, a serving counter, an alcove that’s part of the kitchen or living room, or a completely separate dining room? Third, arrange the various activity centers to provide the most efficient kitchen plan.
Each kitchen has three main activity centers. The food storage center includes the refrigerator, freezer, cabinets, and counter space. The cleanup center includes the sink, counter space on either side, a garbage disposer, a dishwasher, and trash compactor. The cooking center includes a range or oven, counter space on either side, ventilating equipment, and cabinets and drawers for utensils.
The efficient arrangement of these three centers is called a work triangle. At least five good layouts are common.
The U-shaped kitchen is generally considered the most desirable. It offers continuous counter area and the shortest walking distance between appliances.
The corridor kitchen is the simplest and often the most economical arrangement. The corridor should be at least four feet wide to allow traffic to pass, but the kitchen location should not encourage through traffic.
The L-shaped kitchen creates an eating area adjacent to the work triangle and eliminates through traffic.
The island kitchen, a modified U- or L-shape, is a good plan for two people who like to cook together. If you use the island as the cooking center, venting can be a problem.
The one-wall kitchen is the least desirable layout, but may be necessary in some situations. If it is, the sink should be in the center of the work flow. The overall length of the kitchen wall should be no more than 13 feet.
The location of each activity center determines the efficiency of the kitchen. For example, the range should not be located next to the refrigerator. Nor should the range be located directly under a window. Breezes may interfere with gas burners, and curtains can catch fire. The local code may determine the location of the range for venting and safety, so check on this. The sink is best located under a window for natural light and a view. The dishwasher should be within 12 inches of the sink but not so its door blocks traffic.
Keep the following dimensions in mind: Recommended distances for the three sides of the work triangle are: 4 to 7 feet from the sink to the refrigerator, 4 to 6 feet from the sink to the range, and 4 to 9 feet from the range to the refrigerator. This means that no two basic appliances should be less than 4 feet apart.
The total perimeter of the work triangle should be 12 to 22 feet.
For efficiency the overall size of the kitchen should be not more than 160 square feet.
Allow 15 to 18 inches of counter space on the latch side of the refrigerator for loading and unloading.
Allow 30 to 36 inches of counter space on both sides of the sink.
Allow at least 24 inches of counter space on both sides of the range; 30 inches is preferable.
Countertops are normally 24 inches deep and 32 to 36 inches high, depending on personal preference and comfort.
For specific appliance and cabinet sizes, measure your existing units carefully or take new dimensions from manufacturers’ catalogs and data sheets. Be sure to allow sufficient space for doors to swing open completely.
So what about the bathroom? First, consider the overall function of the bath. Is it a half-bath washbasin and toilet, or is it a full family bath? Do you want to include a dressing area or laundry equipment? What about extras such as a sauna or steam bath? Will the bath be used by all family members or only a few? The main family bathroom should be located so it is easily accessible from all bedrooms.
Economy is an important consideration in deciding on locations and layout. Use existing plumbing lines whenever possible to save on labor and material costs. This means a back-to-back arrangement with another bath or kitchen, or an upstairs bath located over the first-floor plumbing connections.
The layout of the principal fixtures can be U-shaped, L-shaped, or corridor arrangement. If you live in a cold climate, locate the water supply and drain waste-vent lines in an interior wall to prevent freezing. Avoid a layout that allows a door to swing into any fixture. Don’t locate the tub under a window. Cold drafts can be uncomfortable, and the window is more difficult to open with the tub in the way. The best tub layout is enclosed by three walls or an alcove.
Several dimensions are specified by the plumbing code. Generally a full bathroom requires a space at least 5 by 7 feet. The thickness of the wet wall that conceals the drains and soil stack may need to be 2 by 6 inches rather than 2 by 4. Allow a minimum of 24 inches from the front rim of a toilet to a facing wall. Allow 18 inches from the center line of the toilet to an adjacent wall and 15 inches to an adjacent fixture. The minimum size for a shower stall is 32 by 32 inches.
What about the living room? The typical living room must serve several functions with a single furniture arrangement. First, list all the activities that will be going on in the room. Then select furnishings to fit those activities. This works better than creating a room scheme around a particular piece of furniture.
Plan your furniture arrangement for maximum flexibility. You’ll need to have access to several activity areas at the same time. Avoid plans that require rearranging furniture every time you want to play a game or watch TV.
Create one primary conversation grouping around a main focal point, such as a fireplace or picture window. Through traffic in this area should be kept to a minimum. If you have a large family or enjoy entertaining, allow seating for at least eight people in this primary furniture grouping. Arrange the seating so that conversation can take place without anyone twisting uncomfortably in his or her seat.
Depending on your family’s needs and interests, you may also want to provide secondary furniture groupings for reading, writing, listening to music and playing musical instruments, game playing, and TV viewing. Plan for TV viewers to be seated at no more than a 45-degree angle. Keep in mind that viewing becomes difficult beyond 10 or 12 feet.
Traffic patterns are critical. The number of entry/exits to the living room should be kept to a minimum. An entrance hall or foyer should provide direct access to other rooms of the house, thereby protecting the living room.
The following dimensions will affect your planning. Although it’s difficult to give a minimum size, 12 by 18 feet is considered a small to modest size for a living room. The maximum distance that allows a comfortable arc of conversation is between 6 and 8 feet. The minimum width for general traffic is 40 inches. If there is only one doorway to the living area, increase this traffic lane to 4 or 5 feet. This allows two people to stand side by side without crowding.
What about the dining area? The dining area should be located near the kitchen, for obvious reasons. The dining area need not be a separate room. Although there are advantages to screening the dining area from the kitchen, an alcove that is part of the kitchen or living room saves space and allows for multiple traffic patterns. If you do choose an alcove arrangement, be sure that lighting is adequate. Plan the size of the area for the largest group that you expect to have in the dining room at one time and consider these dimensions: The minimum size for a table with four place settings and a buffet is 10 by 12 feet. To seat eight people comfortably, you’ll need an area approximately 12 by 15 feet. Allow at least 24 inches of table space for each place setting; 30 inches is better. Allow at least 36 inches from the edge of the table to a nearby wall to provide adequate space for seating and rising.
Bedrooms, of course, are a different animal. First, consider the different activity areas and functions of each bedroom. The needs for a master bedroom are obviously different than for a child’s room. For instance, a master bedroom may include sitting and dressing areas, walk-in closets, and a private deck.
Unless you have a family room or play room, you may want to provide extra play space in a child’s bedroom. Teenagers will need a place to study, including a desk, comfortable chair, and good lighting. You might build loft beds that create usable space underneath.
Because of drafts, beds should not be located under a window. One wall of the bedroom should be free of doors and windows to allow for the bed. Plan sufficient space on either side of the bed to accommodate a bedside table.
Some key dimensions to know: The minimum bedroom size is usually 70 square feet, but check your local code on this. Allow at least 22 inches from the edge of the bed to an adjacent wall or closet for room to make the bed. Allow at least 40 inches in front of a dresser or bureau to provide access to all the drawers. Allow at least 36 inches in front of a closet to provide access and room for dressing and grooming.
Laundry areas are obviously a lot smaller to deal with. Choose a location that is convenient and requires the fewest footsteps. Proximity to existing plumbing connections is a second important consideration. Don’t overlook venting for the dryer. Check the manufacturer’s recommendation for maximum distances.
The bedroom/bath area is a good choice if the walls are insulated for sound. This is where most dirty laundry accumulates and where clean laundry is stored. The bathroom is a logical location if space allows. Plumbing lines are available and the wall surfaces are moisture resistant. The kitchen area is another popular location since this is where most homemaking activities are centered. Stacked units can help save space. Other possible locations include a bedroom hallway or a spare bedroom turned into a laundry/sewing room. In warmer climates a washer and dryer can often be located in a protected carport or breezeway.
Choose a basement location only if there is no other choice. This location is generally inefficient and requires too many steps up and down.
Finally it’s on to closets and storage. Each person in the family should have 4 to 5 linear feet of closet space. All closets should have overhead lighting. Built-in closets prevent bottlenecks and simplify room layout. Keep in mind that closets do more than store clothes; they also provide a sound buffer between rooms.
The following dimensions will affect your planning. Closet doors should open full width if possible. A pocket door opens 100 percent, a hinged door 90 percent or more, a bi-fold door 66 percent, and a sliding door offers access to only 50 percent of the closet at a time. 24- to 30- inch depth is preferred for clothing; 16- to 20-inch depth is sufficient for linens.
Going from room to room and planning accordingly is a painstaking process, but a necessary and crucial evil in properly advancing on home remodeling.
