How to Patch Small Holes in Your Drywall
In this article I am going to focus on a problem that most everyone has faced at one time or another, those pesky holes in your drywall. Maybe those left by the knobs on the back sides of doors, or perhaps a gouge left by the corner of that dresser you thought was a little narrower. Whatever the case, we all have one some where and I am here to tell you, you can fix them.
Gear up, plan out and go shop
Drywall is especially intimidating because we have all seen the lumpy, bumpy, mountainous bulges in walls where all four sides of the poorly cut patch are visible through texture that clearly does not match the surrounding walls. For our purposes here we will stick to holes less than ten inches in diameter. Measure the widest part of the damaged area and make a note. Head out to your local home center and ask where they keep the drywall materials. Do not feel overwhelmed when you get there. You will probably see the gargantuan wall of bulk materials flanked by the equally majestic wall-o-tools. Everything the professional drywall contractor could possibly need.
You however are going to focus on the small corner of this department dedicated to the do-it-your-selfer. The first things you will need are some tools. Look for the smallest, least expensive plastic tools. If it is within your budget and you are so inclined, buy the better quality metal tools. For the home owner doing occasional repairs, however, the plastic is fine. There are small kits ranging in price from 8 or 9 dollars up to about 15 or 20. The basic tool kit should include a 12″ tray to hold drywall compound, a 4″ putty knife, a 10″ or 12″ putty knife, a sanding block and a corner tool.
These tools will enable you to do many small repairs. If your kit does not already contain it, grab some 100 grit drywall sanding screens. A small pack of 5 will do. There are varieties of ready-made drywall patching screens to choose from. I prefer the aluminum, but the paper ones are fine, too. There are three sizes of these patches, choose the one that fits your need. Make sure that your patch is self adhesive as these make the job much easier. Now you need some mud, slide down the aisle a few steps and you should see the stacks of buckets and bags of drywall material.
You will want to get the premixed mud, it is available in boxes, 5 gallon buckets and one gallon buckets; grab a one gallon bucket. You will also need a common household sponge I prefer these to the wet sanding sponges available with the drywall supplies so if you do not have one of these at home get one of those here too. Now you are ready.
Get the mud out
The secret to a good drywall patch is simple, take your time and let the mud dry thoroughly between applications. I learned the hard way a long time ago that you can not rush this process. Lay out an old sheet or a drop cloth below your work area and set your tools out where you can reach them. The first order of business is to make sure the area around the patch is smooth. You can use a knife or your sander to get it smooth. Before you apply the patch to the wall get your mud ready. Two or three scoops with the 4″ knife in the tray should be enough for the first coat.
Once you get the mud in the tray begin working it around with the knife. You will notice that in a moment or two the mud will loosen up, when it does this it is ready. Making sure the area around the damaged area is dry open up one of your patches and align it with the center of the hole. Making sure all of the damaged area is covered, set the patch gently over the area. It should stick to the wall with about the same grab as a piece of masking tape. Roll up a little mud on the edge of the 4″ knife and smooth it on to the patch, working from the outside in. Be generous with the mud and cover the entire patch. The mud should extend about two inches out around the perimeter of the patch. Once the mud is on the wall and the patch sufficiently covered, begin removing the excess. Be careful, and smooth over the mud until it is fairly uniform. Don’t over do it, tomorrow we will sand. Put the leftover mud back in the container, close the lid up tightly and be sure to thoroughly wash your tools.
Sanding and the second coat
The mud should be dry in about 24 hours and ready for sanding and the second coat of mud. Attach the sanding screen to your sanding block and go to it. Gently sand the wall in small circles, again do not over do it let the screen do the work. Sand a little and wipe the wall with a dry towel and feel the wall with your hand. Feel for bumps and imperfections and continue sanding until the surface is smooth. Sanding with the screens will take a minute or so it is not a labor intensive job. Once you feel the surface is smooth enough prepare the mud the same way you did for the first coat. Before you apply the second coat wipe the area with a very well wrung out damp sponge. Apply a thin coat of mud to the wall and “feather” the mud out just beyond the perimeter of the first coat. You really want this coat to be thin, this coat should really mostly just fill in the voids left from sanding and air bubbles. Let this coat sit for about a half an hour and gently wipe it with a damp sponge. This will really smooth out the surface and get it ready for texture.
A word about texture
Texture matching is the key to a good patch and if it is at all possible bring a sample section of the wall in to the store with you for match up purposes. You can cut some of the wall board from around the existing hole and bring it in. Usually found in the paint department of the home center are the texturing supplies. The most popular texture application is called knockdown, the texture that looks like it was thrown on in very small gobs. There are small, medium, and large varieties of this one. The second is called orange peel, this also in the small and large varieties. Orange peel looks like just what it sounds like. The third is more common in homes built prior to 1970 or so and is called skip trowel or classic plaster finish. The first two types are available in spray cans that usually contain enough material to cover an area of about two square feet. For skip trowel you will need to use some of your mud and that 12″ trowel you got at the home center.
The same technique applies for both knockdown and orange peel. Following the directions on the can spray the area working from the center outward and overlapping the patch and the existing wall. Let the texture set up over night and give it a very light sanding. Before you paint use a primer designed for application directly on to drywall.
The technique for skip trowel is a little different. First, put a scoop of mud in your tray. Work it until it loosens up and pick up a little mud with the edge of the 12″ knife. Holding the knife almost parallel to the surface use a swooping motion and move the knife over the surface dabbing the mud on the wall randomly. You should end up with several large dabs of mud on the wall. It will help to practice your technique on a scrap piece of cardboard or wood. Look at the rest of the wall and attempt to simulate the patterns that are already there. If you make a mistake, scrape off the mud and try again. When the dabs you have created are to your satisfaction let them set for a few minutes and clean up. After a few minutes have passed gently run the 12″ knife over the surface of the texture slightly flattening it. Allow the texture to dry over night and give it a very light sanding and stand back and admire your work.
Try not to be too critical
There is no such thing as a perfect patch. The idea is to spread the mud out and make the patch less noticeable. Keep in mind that you will always know where the damage was and therefore will think you can really see the patch. While this may be true I have found that with most of my patches, I know where they are but I really have to point them out to others who were not aware of the original damage.
