How to Whitewash Your Cabinets
The first consideration is to determine whether the cabinets you propose to whitewash are new wood cabinets, older wood cabinets that have been previously finished, or cabinets that are made of pressed wood with a thin veneer finish. Each kind of cabinet will require a different preparation before whitewashing. It may also determine how one is going to whitewash the cabinets.
PREPARATION OF NEW WOOD CABINETS
Bare wood cabinets are ready to be whitewashed. Merely make sure they are free of dust. A quick wipe with a damp cloth to remove any dust is all that is necessary.
Before you begin to whitewash your new wood cabinets, be warned that whitewash on some woods will give them a pink appearance. This is fine if that is what you want. The type of wood your cabinets are made of will determine this. Maple is a closed grain and light wood. Closed grain means that the wood has a more uniform texture and has small pores. It’s good for grey or blue whitewashing. Red oak is an open grain wood. Open grain means that it has large pores and will absorb more stain readily than closed grain woods. It has a bold strong grain and will appear pink when whitewashed. Ash is an open grain wood and is excellent for whitewashing. Pecan hickory is a closed grain wood. It usually is not chosen for whitewashing, but that’s not to say it can’t be done.
PREPARATION OF WOOD CABINETS THAT HAVE BEEN PREVIOUSLY FINISHED
The first thing you must do is to remove the cabinet doors. This will make the job easier. It helps the wood dry faster and also gives you time to work on the frame part of the cabinets inside while the doors dry outside.
It may take a large amount of time to prepare cabinets that have previously been finished, but it is not impossible. Refacing them might be easier if you’re limited on time and energy.
The kind of whitewash you choose may depend on whether you decide to completely remove the finish or whether you decide to whitewash over the existing finish. If you decide to whitewash over the existing finish you must prime the cabinets with a commercial product.
If you decide to remove the finish or paint do the following:
Place the doors on a tarp or drop cloth to contain your work area.
Apply a heavy coat of clear coat stripper commercially made for this purpose. Some recommend Jasco, Superstrip, Bix Stripper or Liquid Sandpaper.
It will begin to bubble. After about 15 minutes, apply another coat over that and wait another 15 minutes.
Take a thin, very flexible, metal putty knife and either grind or file the corners round to keep it from gouging the wood. Scrape away the stripper and put in a
metal container such as a coffee can to dispose.
Follow-up with a medium grade steel wool. Soak the steel wool in the stripper to remove any stubborn spots. Some finishes will take another application.
Do not sand with an electric sander. Leave that to the very experienced or professionals.
After removing all the stripper, sand with 220 grit sand paper. Then wash with a damp cloth. Make sure it is completely clean. Do the same thing to the frame of
the cabinets inside.
If you decide to whitewash over the existing finish do the following:
After removing the doors for the reasons stated above, clean and degrease them. Be sure they are spotless and grease free. Use a solution of water and TSP-90
which is a heavy duty cleaner found in most hardware stores.
Once the doors are completely dry, prime with a commercial primer. If the cabinets had a dark finish, two or three applications may be required. The doors must
be completely dry between applications of primer. And they must be completely dry to begin whitewashing them.
WHITEWASHING
In my research, I discovered that there are different ways to whitewash. Below is a description of each, in no particular order. Choose the one that best suits your purpose. Always practice on scrap wood before attempting any one method of whitewashing. This will insure you get the desired effect.
First Method- Whitewashing in 2 Colors with Enamel Paint
Paint the frames first with white enamel paint. The reason for this is so that the frame will be dry by the time you have completed the doors.
When the white enamel paint is completely dry, paint with a contrasting color of your choice.
After the contrasting color paint is completely dry (usually 24 hrs.), paint with the white enamel.
Dip a rag in denatured alcohol and rub against the wood lightly or heavily to get the look you desire. Change rags when they become tacky. If you removed too
much paint, you can always repaint. Be sure the cabinet frame and doors are completely dry before rehanging.
Second Method-Using Whitewash Stain (Only for bare wood)
Some maintain that the pigment in stains are not white enough to look like a whitewash.
Apply the stain liberally with a foam brush or a rag.
Allow the stain to penetrate the wood surface and wipe off the excess with a clean dry cloth before the stain dries. Wipe in the direction of the wood grain.
Less pressure will result in lighter tones and more pressure in darker tones.
Apply additional coats of stain to darken and enrich the tones, allowing each coat to dry 3 hours.
Allow the cabinets to dry 24 hours after the last coat of stain.
Third Method-Using Regular White Latex Paint
Take a small portion of paint and mix with water so that it is very thin. You can add more paint to the mixture if it’s too thin and the color you desire is not
achieved. Add more water if it’s covering the grain too much.
Use a rag to apply the paint mixture and to wipe it off just like you would stain.
After achieving the desired look and it has dried completely (usually 24 hrs.), coat with a latex clear coat such as a minwax water based lacquer. Make sure
the clear coat is the same brand as the whitewash paint to prevent an adverse effect.
Fourth Method-Using Antiquing Paint Over Existing Finishes
You can purchase antiquing that comes in a whitewash. Some recommend Sherman Williams, Duron, or Pittsburg Paint. If you desire for the grain to show through, you will have to remove the existing finish before using the antiquing paint.
Fifth Method-Using White Paint (Only for bare wood)
Mix 1 part white paint (latex or oil base/alkyd) to 8 or 9 parts reducer which can be water for latex or paint thinner for oil-based paint. Add more paint to
the mixture if it’s too thin or more reducer if it’s too thick. Test on scrap wood.
Apply with a rag and wipe before it dries.
Allow it to dry (usually 24 hrs.) and apply a protective clear finish.
Following the options above, you can achieve the whitewash look you desire.
