Installing a Single-Lever Faucet
Variety abounds in faucet and sink styles; the examples shown with the instructions are typical. Refer to the instructions that accompany your new single-lever faucet unit.
Making a selection should include matching your taste to what will fit your sink and your budget. The price range for single-lever faucets is vast, beginning at less than a hundred dollars for a basic chrome model and increasing to hundreds of dollars for fancier, European models. The more expensive faucets commonly contain a ceramic-disk cartridge mechanism, which may last a lifetime. Less expensive models generally operate with other types of cartridges that must be replaced every three to five years.
Although single-lever faucets are available in an assortment of prices and styles, on the inside all are one of three types. Hollow-ball faucets have the most uncomplicated workings, including a hollow ball with three inlets; one each for hot and cold water, and one that functions as a spout channel. Moving the handle of a hollow-ball faucet changes the orientation of the inlets, varying both the proportion of hot water to cold water and the rate of the water flow.
Cam-and-valve faucets have internal workings similar to those found in two-handle faucets. The single lever controls a cam that activates spring-loaded valves. Moving the handle left and right opens and closes the hot and cold water supplies. Moving the handle forward increases the rate of the water flow.
Cartridge faucets contain a replaceable cartridge mechanism with overlapping inlets (similar to those found in the hollow-ball faucets) where hot and cold water mix.
Most new faucet assemblies come complete with copper tube risers and compression fittings to connect the new risers to the water supply. Together these make doing it yourself much easier because soldering is usually not necessary.
Whichever model you select, rest assured that with modern installation techniques, replacing a two-handled faucet with a single lever model is not a difficult task even for the novice.
What you will need:
Drop light
Rags
Bucket
Adjustable wrench
Measuring tape
Braided stainless steel supply lines
Large pipe cutter with pipe reamer
Small pipe cutter
Putty knife
Basin wrench
Felt tip pen
Faucet assembly, complete with riser tubes and compression fittings
Plumber’s putty
A basin wrench is a specialized tool that has a flexible head that flips out, so it can be used to both remove and tighten small nuts within tight quarters. Other tools may work but are usually hard to maneuver and to hold securely when applying pressure, making the risk of slipping and damaging the sink great.
Determine necessary measurements for existing faucet assembly. Shop for and buy new faucet assembly. Plan a time to work when the sink will not be needed.
Before shopping for a new faucet:
Measure the distance between the faucets, from center to center. If centers of faucets handles are not obvious, go beneath the sink and measure, close to the sink, from the inside edge of one riser to the outside edge of the other.
Beneath the sink, measure the distance between the sink and supply valve. This measurement yields the necessary length of the riser tubes, which are the pipes that carry water from the supply valves to the faucet.
Removing the old faucet assembly
Under-sink layout with dishwasher connection.
If you have a dishwasher a single supply line will run to it from the hot pipe. It may have its own shutoff valve, which need not be turned off to change a faucet. Also ther maybe an attachment for an ice maker or water dispenser on the cold water side.
Turn off the water supply to both the hot & cold water valves. Place abucket under the lines to catch any water.
Open both hot & cold sides of the faucet to drain the water from lines. Cut off the copper supply lines 4 inches above the dishwasher or cold supply shut off valves. Attach the compresson couplings at this time to the copper stubbed piping above the shut off valves. This is were the new supply lines will attach later.
With a basin wrench, remove upper coupling nuts. Be certain the wrench has a good grip on the nut before you apply pressure, as a slip could crack or dent the sink.
Grasp faucet assembly and lift up to remove. Be careful not to scratch or chip the sink, especially if it is porcelain.
With a putty knife remove old plumber’s putty. If mounting surface is very dirty, scrub with a household cleanser.
Installing new faucet assembly
Assemble new faucet according to manufacturer’s instructions. Usually a washer or washer-support plate complex fits directly below the assembly; a gasket may or may not be necessary.
Apply a thick bead of plumber’s putty around base of assembled faucet unit. Slide the faucet unit into place. Attach and tighten the hold-down nuts. Take care not to over tighten if the fixture is porcelain, as the fixture may crack.
Attach the larger end of the braided supply line to the sink faucet with the basin wrench.
Connect the smaller end of the supply lines to the top of the compression fitting with an adjustable wrench while holding the compresson fitting with another wrench. Turn on the water at the valves and open the sink faucet to let any air escape.
Check for leaks and enjoy your new fuacet for many years to come.
