Is Germany’s Dream Island Sylt a Paradise Lost?
Well, perhaps shrinking is a better word for it. Sylt is the northern most “tip” of Germany, technically reaching up and over the Danish border from its location in the North Sea. It’s the largest of the North Frisian Islands and a favorite, if not at times somewhat crowded holiday destination. Though also considered to be one of Germany’s playgrounds for the rich and famous, those of us who are neither can have a fantastic and affordable time of it here, as well.
Just a short 130 mile train ride from Hamburg, Sylt is famous for its incredibly long beaches, its pure ocean air, the wandering sandbanks (Wanderdunen) and picturesque lighthouses. And these very wandering sandbanks are part of “the problem” here. Scientists have warned that the western coast of Sylt, which is basically one giant 25 mile long beach, is slowly being reclaimed by the North Sea. And you don’t have to be a scientist to figure this one out. A returning visitor can see with his own eyes just how devastating the erosion’s work has been from one year to the next.
The entire island is really nothing more than a long, thin, sandy strip, about 500 meters in width at its narrowest point. There is very little rock and very much sand and much of this sand is slowly losing its grip upon the valuable grasses and other vegetation which have held off the onslaught of erosion up until now. The giant dunes are continually shifting (Die Wanderdunen) as the strong North Sea winds continually pound upon the island’s western coast. And the regularly occurring and unfortunately rather violent winter storms have been leaving an even greater impact.
But don’t despair! It’s not as hopeless as it would first seem to be at first glance. Huge four-legged concrete blocks or “tetrapods” have been scattered upon the beaches to help stop the deterioration. A fleet of barges regularly pump in sand from the deeper waters offshore and back up upon the beaches. There is even talk of possibly constructing a giant wave breaker to be placed directly before a considerable stretch of the island’s western coast.
In other words, as is often the case (especially in Germany), things sometimes appear to be more dramatic than in fact are. All things considered, Sylt will have a long and prosperous future ahead of it. And it already has every reason to be proud of its present “situation”.
BecauseâÂ?¦ What a beautiful place this island is! A walk along the endless, desert-like dunes invigorates your senses and tanks you up with energy. The famous (or infamous?) Sylt tan sandblasts its way into your skin in no time. And walking along this giant sand bar, the “St Tropez of the North”, even newcomers often get the feeling that they have somehow been here before. And perhaps you have, too, in a way: Boston has its Cape Cod, New York has its Hamptons and Hamburg has its Sylt.
Your arrival here can be a bit of an adventure, as well. Most visitors choose to come by train over the only available land connection, the Hindenburg Damm. It is great fun to train over this windy stretch of dam, constructed shortly after World War I. Blue sky and seagulls above, the rumbling double-decker train below, the North Sea to the right and the Wadden Sea (Wattenmeer) to the left.
The Wadden Sea itself is a beautiful, unusual experience. These coastal wetlands occupy approximately a 10,000 square kilometer large area between the coast of northwestern continental Europe and the North Sea. It is a “low” area typified by tidal mud flats, storm tides and islands. It is a region that, in effect, is contested by both land and sea (the sea is unfortunately wining at the moment). When the tide is out on Sylt, for example, it is possible to take guided walking tours to the neighboring islands, so-called Wattwanderungen.
Many of the Sylter communities, Westerland, Keitum, List, Morsum amoung them, have sites of local interest and offer a varied selection of cultural diversions. There are countless good restaurants and cafÃ?©s on Sylt, many of which enjoy a world-class reputation. North Sea Crab is a specialty here, as are Maatjes and countless other seafood delicacies. Sylt is also home to the famous Sylt Royal Oysters. Stop by and visit Germany’s only oyster farm in List on the northern tip of the Island. You won’t regret it.
Another Sylter speciality is Friesentee. This strong, black tea is served with dark “rock” sugar, heavy cream and, if possible, don’t forget to order a piece of their famous Friesentorte to go along with it (a delectable plum and cream pie).
And after having enjoyed your meal, make sure to walk it all off again on the beach. And don’t bother to ask the natives directions for the nearest beach. The whole island is.
