Jenny Lake Lodge in Grand Teton National Park
Two strong, yet very different women have left their mark on Jenny Lake Lodge in Grand Teton National Park. The first, Jenny Leigh and another nicknamed Danny, short for Mary Danforth Strange.
I spent nearly an hour pondering these two gals while sitting on my porch at the lodge. Except for the gentle squeak of my rocking chair, it was quiet, incredibly quiet. Even the birds seemed to be taking an afternoon siesta.
Unlike many of the early trappers, who lived with Native American women, Beaver Dick Leigh was legally married to his Shoshoni wife Jenny. By all accounts he was devoted to her and to their children. She was an able helpmate in all their endeavors.
When the Hayden Survey party arrived to explore, describe and map the region, they hired Beaver Dick. It was a wise choice, since he probably knew this section of Wyoming better than any other white man. The Leigh family had camped near the area of the present day lodge. To honor Jenny for her dedication to Beaver Dick, the survey leaders named the loveliest of the lakes after her.
A bit later came Danny. She was the pampered daughter of a wealthy New Jersey businessman, Albert Strange. Danny was a debutante, a member of the junior league and high-society girl. Could two women be more different?
Nonetheless, Danny was the athletic, outdoorsy type, who loved the west. Perhaps the two women did have that in common. Frequent visitors to the dude ranches of Jackson Hole, the Strange family struck up a friendship with an ambitious fellow named Tony Grace.
Tony wanted to start up his own guest ranch and Albert Strange was looking for even more isolation. Strange offered to lend him the money to start his project. To honor his friend and benefactor, Tony named his ranch after 22-year old fun-loving Danny. The Danny Ranch had its first season in the summer of 1923 and the guest book listed 23 guests.
The lodge has undergone several transformations since Danny and her family sought the solitude of the mountains, including the name. The first was The Danny Ranch, then the Jenny Lake Ranch, and now the Jenny Lake Lodge.
In terms of amenities and comfort level, the title lodge is more appropriate than ranch. They do offer horsebacking riding, but that’s the only feature you would expect to find at a ranch. The lodge today has been described as luxury set amid the wilderness. These are not your typical back woods cabins.
Surrounded by forest, the 37 pine log cabins epitomize the upscale rustic look with hooked rugs, hand-quilted bed coverings, comfy chairs, wood furniture, and rockers on the porch. The bathrooms are spacious and fitted with all toiletries and thick towels. They even have in-room coffee makers, one of the first things I look for when arriving in a hotel room. Never one for sleeping on the ground, this is my idea of log cabin living.
Each cabin is named for a flower, much more friendly and welcoming than just a standard number. Mine was called Balsam Root and its likeness was depicted on the bathroom tile. Suites have wood-burning stoves and attractive sitting areas. Adding to the sense of peaceful seclusion, cabins have no TVs, or radios. Phones are available upon request.
Like the cabins, the restaurant is small, but elegant. Jackets are required for the guys. No chuck wagon chow here, the norm is a multi-course dinner, each and every night.
If you arrange a stay at Jenny Lake Lodge, you’ll be in good company. Princess Grace of Monaco and her family once selected this mountain hideaway for their vacation.
Horseback rides follow scenic trails at a walking pace and novice riders are encouraged. Children must be at least 8 years old to ride and corral ponies are available for younger kids.
Although a beautiful lake still bears her name, Jenny did not live to see old age. She and all her six children died of the smallpox in December 1876. Sick himself, Beaver Dick nursed his wife and children, but to no avail. He alone survived thanks in part to the natural immunities of Europeans. One could easily question whether that was a good thing or a bad thing. It sounds like a story Hollywood might contrive, but it’s true.
Breakfast and dinner, plus horseback riding and use of bikes are included in the Jenny room rates.
