Jonesboro, Georgia: A Guide to Places in the Historical City
In 1864 General William T. Sherman was on the march with his sights set on Atlanta, and the War Between the States came crashing into the little city of Jonesboro. While General Sherman’s troops were engaged with Confederate General J. B. Hood’s troops north of Atlanta, Sherman ordered General Judson Kilpatrick to destroy the railroad between Jonesboro and Griffin hoping that this would force Hood out of Atlanta. Kilpatrick raided Jonesboro burning the depot, the courthouse and destroying nearly a mile of railroad track. While in Jonesboro Kilpatrick was confronted by Confederate Calvary and was forced south to Nash Farm Battlefield where he would be engaged by a Confederate Infantry Brigade from Texas. Less than two weeks later, Sherman ordered the movement of 60,000 Union soldiers to the south of Atlanta and just west of Jonesboro. A majority of these soldiers were under the command of Federal Major Oliver O. Howard (the man Howard University is named for). General Hood soon realized what General Sherman was up to and he sent Lieutenant General William J. Hardee’s corps under the command of Major General Patrick R. Cleburne and Major General Stephen D. Lee’s Corps down to meet Howard’s Union forces in Jonesboro. The bloody battle that ensued went on for two days and eventually resulted in the Confederate forces buying enough time to withdraw to regroup for another fight at Lovejoy’s Station. Jonesboro fell to the Union, and the railroad lines were cut. Atlanta would consequentially fall to Sherman ending the Atlanta Campaign.
Left with the task of rebuilding, Jonesboro settled back into the shadow of nearby Atlanta. That is, until 1936 when Macmillan and Company published a book by the granddaughter of one of Clayton County’s founding families. Jonesboro was launched into the international spotlight as “Gone with the Wind” by Margaret Mitchell claimed its spot as one of the most popular books in the world. When MGM bought the rights and decided to make a movie producers came to Jonesboro to see what Margaret saw when she was a little girl visiting her Fitzgerald grandparents. Ultimately they built Tara and Twelve Oaks on the MGM back lot based on their favorite pieces from homes all over the South, so you won’t find Tara in Jonesboro in a physical sense. However, you will find the history and stories that inspired Margaret Mitchell to write her novel at nearly every turn in Historic Jonesboro.
Today Jonesboro still serves as the county seat of Clayton County, and even though the county is constantly changing, Historic Jonesboro remains committed to providing a unique and interesting look at history. Located about 20 miles south of Atlanta it is a great day trip for those in the Metro Area, and Jonesboro has relatively easy access to I-75 so it could also be a great stop if you’re passing by.
Here are some of the points of interest in Jonesboro:
Jonesboro Train Depot
If you’re not familiar with the city of Jonesboro you will want your first stop to be 104 N. Main Street. There you will find the Train Depot which was built in 1867, to replace the original depot which was burned during Union General Kilpatrick’s raid. The original was made out of wood and was located a little bit further up Main Street near what is now the Patrick R. Cleburne Confederate Cemetery, when it was rebuilt Georgia Granite was used and the building still stands today. In fact, it is home to the Clayton County Convention and Visitors Bureau and The Road to Tara Museum. These to places are must see stops for Jonesboro Visitors. At the welcome center you can find just about every sort of information you might need in the form of brochures and friendly people. If you’d like to go on a tour, need directions or if you have a question, this is one of the best places to start. If you plan on visiting several attractions, they will also be able to assist you with buying a ticket package which can save you some money.
If you’re interested in Historical Jonesboro you might want to take the “Landmarks through History Tour” which includes the Jonesboro Trolley Tour, Admission to the Road to Tara Museum and a Tour of Stately Oaks. As a packaged bundle you can save about 8 dollars, and it’s an excellent way to learn about the origins of “Gone with the Wind” and the County history that inspired Margaret Mitchell. There is more to Jonesboro than “Gone with the Wind”, for example you can learn about Jonesboro’s connection to Alonzo Herndon (the first African-American Millionaire), The Battle of Jonesboro and see many of Jonesboro’s historical homes. Since many of Jonesboro’s historical homes are still private residences you may prefer to take this tour and look out the window as somebody else drives.
If you’re not from the Atlanta area or you plan on going to Atlanta as well, you might want to look into the “Gone with the Wind” Premiere Pass. The Premiere pass will grant you access to The Road to Tara Museum, Stately Oaks, take you on a Tour featuring “Gone with the Wind” history and will also grant you admission to The Margaret Mitchell House in Downtown Atlanta and The Atlanta Cyclorama. The Margaret Mitchell House is the home where Margaret Mitchell lived as she labored over “Gone with the Wind”, the house was burned twice in the mid 1990s, but Daimler-Benz remained committed to its restoration and today it is completely restored. The Atlanta Cyclorama is one of the most unique attractions anywhere, it’s located in Grant Park (right next door to Zoo Atlanta) and it is home to one of the World’s Largest Paintings. The painting depicts the Battle of Atlanta and visitors are seated in the center on a rotating platform, while guided through all of the events depicted. When “Gone with The Wind” premiered at the Lowe’s in Downtown Atlanta, many of the stars visited the Cyclorama and Clark Gable himself contributed something to the experience you’ll have when you visit today. So, if you simply want to see one attraction or several you’re going to want to start at the visitor’s center. They can save you some money or just help you find something like Stately Oaks (which is a little bit difficult to find if you don’t know the area well). There is also a gift shop housed in the Train Depot, and if you guessed that you’ll have no trouble finding a “Gone with the Wind” souvenir there you would be absolutely correct. The store has a little bit of everything, including patterns for costumes from “Gone with the Wind” if you’re interested in making your own after seeing some of the reproductions in the museum.
The Road to Tara Museum
The Road to Tara Museum is located in the Jonesboro Train Depot, and is a must see for “Gone with the Wind” fans. The Road to Tara Museum showcases items from Herb Bridges’ personal collection, and teaches visitors about the evolution of history to book. Margaret Mitchell wrote “Gone with the Wind” largely based on stories she heard while she was visiting her grandparents who were long time Clayton County residents. County legend and historic fights like the battle of Jonesboro contributed greatly to Margaret Mitchell’s vision of an era passed, and helped her write one of the most famous novels in the history of the world. The Road to Tara museum also showcases editions of “Gone with the Wind” novels and “Gone with the Wind” posters in hundreds of different languages. In addition to reproductions of movie costumes, sketches done by costume designers, a whole host of historical artifacts and pop culture memorabilia one of the most interesting exhibits is a collection of items based on and inspired by the character of Mammy and the evolution of that through American culture and advertising. The Road to Tara Museum also has a glass showcase which features traveling exhibits of historical value, the exhibit changes year round. Most recently it was an exhibit comprised of contributions from African-Americans to American Culture.
Old Downtown Jonesboro
Main Street of Jonesboro, GA looks quite a bit like it did in the 1800s despite having been burned during the War Between the States. The buildings were made of brick, and their general structure survived the fire. Aside from the ample parking for automobiles visitors today will see roughly the same main street outline that generations upon generations of Jonesboro residents have seen. Today, rather than rowdy saloons visitors will find a few shops, government offices, the Arts Clayton Gallery, and even a photography studio specializing in old time sepia toned photos. Main Street also serves as the primary parade route for Jonesboro’s various holiday parades ranging from Martin Luther King Jr. Day in February to a Holiday Parade in November.
Across the railroad tracks on N. McDonough Street, you will see our Historic Courthouse restored to its 1898 state. The courthouse grounds often play host to community events such as concerts and charitable fundraisers. In 1996 when Atlanta hosted the Olympic Games, it was a stop on the torch relay. Today there are a few markers on the grounds, but mostly the attraction is the historic renovation.
Stately Oaks Plantation
Located on Carriage Lane (just off of Jodeco Road) in Jonesboro, Georgia Stately Oaks is a Greek revival style plantation home that was built in 1839. The antebellum home (originally owned by the Robert McCord Family) was located about 4 miles north of Downtown Jonesboro at the time of the civil war and somehow Stately Oaks survived because it was a landmark for both sides of the fighting. In the 1970s the home was cut in half and moved to its current location in what is known as Margaret Mitchell Memorial Park in Jonesboro. At that time Stately Oaks was fully restored by Historical Jonesboro, Inc and furnished with period furniture. Today visitors can take a guided tour of Stately Oaks complete with docents dressed in authentic Southern belle costume.
Stately Oaks’ grounds are also home to a number of restored outbuildings such as the plantation’s original log kitchen, the Bethel school house and Juddy’s Country Store. In addition to tours, Stately Oaks and Margaret Mitchell Memorial Park are home to several annual events. You may wish to plan your visit to Stately Oaks to coincide with Native American Heritage Day (April), Taste of Clayton (June), Stately Oaks Mourning Tours (August), The Re-enactment of the Battle of Jonesboro and the Autumn Oaks Festival (October), The Christmas Bazaar (November) or Home For Christmas 1863 (December) just for starters. To learn more about each of these events (such as admission cost and hours) and the events that are always being added visit: http://www.historicaljonesboro.org/.
Patrick R. Cleburne Confederate Cemetery
Located at the corner of Johnson & McDonough Streets the Patrick R. Cleburne Confederate Cemetery is the final resting place of somewhere between 600 and 1000 Confederate soldiers who died during the Battle of Jonesboro. When the battle was over 6,942 men had been killed and their bodies were buried where they fell, with makeshift markers. By the time the state legislature passed a grant in 1873 giving Jonesboro 1,000 dollars, for what is now the Patrick R. Cleburne Confederate Cemetery nearly all of the markers were gone. The unidentifiable Confederate dead were collected and buried in an area near the bloodiest fighting. The Federal soldiers are interred at Marietta National Cemetery. (That cemetery was also borne of the civil war; you can read about it here: http://www.mariettasquare.com/national_cemetery.html.)
Today when you visit Patrick R. Cleburne Confederate cemetery, you will find it is laid out in the design of a confederate battle flag, with a large memorial stone in the center. In addition to the row and rows of unmarked tombstones standing in perfect rank and file (with the exception of slight modifications done by some of the large trees there) you will find a handful of newer tombstones that identify soldiers that are known to have died in the Battle of Jonesboro and are believed to be buried there. There is also one more identified grave; it is the grave of Agnatius F. Brooke. It is believed that Brooke was fatally injured in the battle of Ezra Church and died on the train to Jonesboro. As such he was buried with less haste than the others, and his identity was well documented.
Ashley Oaks Mansion
While the name of this mansion may call to mind “Gone with the Wind” imagery, it’s not specifically named for Ashley Wilkes or his family’s plantation in the Margaret Mitchell novel. However, Ashley Oaks is a very interesting symbol of Jonesboro’s history. Ashley Oaks was built in 1879 by Clayton County’s first sheriff Leander Hutchenson. Aside from being Jonesboro’s sheriff Mr. Hutchenson was also a very successful businessman who owned a large business that provided most of the hand-made bricks you’ll see in Clayton County’s oldest buildings. When Mr. Hutchenson went to build his own home he built what is considered by some to be the most elegant home in Clayton County. Ashley Oaks is visually stunning both inside and out, it’s been completely restored and the mansion is furnished with period antiques, which will appeal to anybody who has appreciation for an age gone by. However, the most fascinating thing about Ashley Oaks is the construction. The four large downstairs rooms each stand on their own independent foundation and the house itself required the use of over a million of those hand-made bricks from Leander Hutchenson’s business. This resulted in the home’s exterior walls being an entire foot thick. Ashley Oaks is located at 144 College Street in Jonesboro, and is open during certain hours for tours during the week (Tues-Fri).
The Jonesboro Greenhouse
The Jonesboro Greenhouse is also known as the Looney-Hanes-Smith House, what it gets called depends on how you’re talking about it. Today the Jonesboro Greenhouse it is a bed and breakfast which also hosts a multitude of special events including weddings and teas, but in the history of Jonesboro it is called the Looney-Hanes-Smith House after the families who have lived there. The Jonesboro Greenhouse was built in 1879, and it has been maintained beautifully over the years it has the original hardwood floors and features hand plastered walls. The exterior of the Jonesboro Greenhouse has towering gables and has a wonderfully maintained garden that compliments the grandeur of this Victorian mansion. The Jonesboro Greenhouse is located at 139 College St. in downtown Jonesboro. To learn more about the Jonesboro Greenhouse (including tour information) visit their website at http://www.jonesborogreenhouse.com/.
Margaret Mitchell’s Playhouse
In most cities, the area behind a funeral parlor usually isn’t a landmark, but in downtown historic Jonesboro there are two points of interest behind the Pope Dickson and Son Funeral Home located at 168 North McDonough Street. One of them is a small icehouse from the Fitzgerald Plantation, which served not only as an icehouse, but also as a schoolhouse. Mrs. Fitzgerald (who was Margaret Mitchell’s grandmother) taught many of the Fitzgerald plantation’s slaves to read in this little icehouse when it wasn’t holding ice in the years prior to the civil war. Later Margaret Mitchell would often come from her home in Atlanta to visit with her grandparents and she often played in the small house. Eventually, it was given to the Dickson family, and they have lovingly restored it and placed it out on their property for curious visitors to see. This little playhouse is essentially all that remains of the Fitzgerald home where Margaret Mitchell heard the stories she would turn into one of the world’s most popular novels. The main building of the home fell into a state of extreme disrepair and although it was saved from demolition its condition has not improved and it is not available to the public for viewing.
The Antique Funeral Museum
One of the most unique sights in Jonesboro is the 24 hour drive up Antique Funeral Museum located in the back of the Pope Dickson & Son Funeral Home located at 168 North McDonough Street. The museum showcases a collection of historical artifacts from the history of funerals. The largest piece of the collection is the horse drawn hearse that carried Alexander Stephens after his death. Alexander Stephens was Vice-President of the Confederacy but after the war he was also elected to the U.S. Senate, served as a member of Georgia’s House of Representatives and was elected Governor of Georgia. He died in office shortly thereafter, and is buried at his home in Crawfordville, Ga. Which the Georgia Department of Natural Resources maintains as a state Historic Park, and you can learn more about it at their website here: http://www.gastateparks.org/net/go/parks.aspx?locationid=37&s=37.0.1.5
If you are interested in learning more about the many private homes and offices that are significant landmarks in the history of Jonesboro, Georgia (Many of them pre-date the War Between the States) the City of Jonesboro maintains a list of them on their website. You can find that list at this address: http://www.jonesboroga.com/visiting_jonesboro/landmarks.htm.
