Lecce Amphitheatre Provides a Great Example of Roman Culture
Peeling away from a throng of foreigners with digital cameras and laminated maps, I turn a sharp corner leading into Lecce’s Piazza Sant Oronzo. The piazza is the focal point of this city. Lecce has managed better than many other city’s to embrace the fashions, hustle and bustle of modern-day Italy, while successfully building around the hotbed of archeological treasure beneath it’s feet.
Following a cobblestone street, I sidestep some traffic and there ahead of me it looms: Leece’s Roman Amphitheatre. An enormous circular structure that seated thousands of patrons. Excavated in 1938, during construction of an Italian bank – the theatre takes up nearly half of the piazza, while the other half remains buried under surrounding coffee shops and boutiques. In its heyday, Lecce’s Amphitheatre was the most important Roman monument of the city. Built under Hadrian’s empire, the amphitheatre dates back to the 2nd century when Lecce thrived under its Roman name of “Lupiae”.
Approaching the guard rail I peer down below. The amphitheatre has benefited from recent renovation which – during the last 10 years – has seen major restoration completed of the lower level pens that housed wild animals, gladiators and other forms of Roman-era spectacle. Comments amphitheatre curator Giuseppe Taura:
“âÂ?¦What you see here is just a fraction of what actually stood
on this spot. Remember, the Amphitheatre held upwards of
20,000 patrons, so were talking about 5 levels in height and
several hundred meters in circumference. The size and scope of the
Amphitheatre dwarfed the surrounding areaâÂ?¦”
Walking around to the far side of the amphitheatre, I can still see its main entrance and the long corridors that led to the holding area blow. Like some modern rock and roll arena, the Lecce amphitheatre had areas for all levels of society. From the very rich to the very poor. What manner of contest took place here, I wondered. What lives were held in the balance, awaiting the decision of an outstretched thumb? Adds Taura:
“âÂ?¦Yes, there were fights to the death between prisoners and
gladiators. Man against man, man against beast and more. But
this was the spectacle of the day. There were also athletic contests
as well as plays. You can still see the VIP section which was reserved
for the members of the Senate and other dignitaries…’
What a paradox. And what an incredible foundation to one of Europe’s most enduring cultures. In a day and age when the spotlight of Italy shines increasingly on the North, It’s comforting to know that the city of Lecce stands head and shoulders above most of the South and is respected throughout the country.
The locals seem to take all this majesty in stride. But as an American living in Italy, I am continuously amazed at the archeological integration between old Lecce and new. Like some adult playground, visitors need only pick a direction and then allow themselves an opportunity to be immersed in one of the world’s most renowned cultures.
The amphitheatre holds a number of artifacts and tourists would do well to schedule their time accordingly so they can descend inside. You can find a number of columns, plaques and statues, many which reflect the popular contests of the day. As I slipped into one of its underground corridors, it was hard not to feel swept back in time. You can practically hear a stern cold voice yell “NextâÂ?¦!” as another pair of gladiators made their way to the amphitheatre’s center stage.
Who knows, in another 1000 years the city of Lecce – like it’s amphitheatre – may find itself buried for the ages. The tall buildings, banks and store fronts studied in the same way the amphitheatre is appreciated today. That’s a card for fate or destiny to deal. In the meantime, tourists, students and the citizens from all walks of life can stroll through the streets of Lecce and continue to learn from it’s storied past.
