Lecce, Italy’s Renowned Teatro Paisiello Opera House
I’m so taken by it all, that I almost miss my destination – the famous Teatro Paisiello (Via Palmieri, 28), Lecce’s most renowned opera house and named in honor of Giovanni Paisiello. One of Italy’s most famous composer’s of the classical era, his named forever etched in the Pantheon of the greats thanks to his enduring masterpiece “Il Barbiere di Siviglia” (The Barber of Seville) and countless others.
Built in the late 1600’s and originally named the “Teatro Nuovo”, the plain faÃ?§ade of the building masks the beauty that lies within. Years later at the height of his popularity, the theatre was renamed. An almost unheard of gesture of admiration. In more recent times the Theatre was closed to the public. Eventually ungoing extensive restoration, Teatro Paisiello reopened in 1993. Not just a location listed on someone’s tour agenda, the Teatro Paisiello is a thriving shelter for a stream of talent that performs not only locally but from all over the world.
Teatro Paisiello is a theatre built in the grand style of the great theatres of the world. A curved staircase leads you to the main entrance or to one of the 4 levels above. The theatres “half-moon” design ensures that everyone in attendance has the best seat in the house.
Visitors are greeted in the foyer by a bust of the grand master himself, Giovanni Paisiello. Paisiello was born in the nearby city of Taranto and attended a nearby Jesuit college. While singing in the choir, his powerful voice gave notice to a special talent in the making and in 1754 he was sent to Naples’s famous conservatory of music the “Conservatorio di S. Onofrio”. While at the conservatory, Paisiello studied under Master Francesco Durante. During the nearly 10 years he spent at this prestigious academy, Giovanni Paisiello wrote three opera, La Pupilla and Il Mondo al Rovescio, commissioned by the city of Bologna and, Il Marchese di Tidipano, for the city of Rome.
In 1776, Paisiello was invited to St. Petersburg by the empress Catherine II of Russia. He remained for eight years, producing his most notable work “Il Barbiere di Siviglia” (The Barber of Seville), which soon attained a European reputation.
In what can now be viewed as post-modernistic “sampling”, in 1816, Gioacchino Rossini took the Paisiello’s masterpiece and changed the liberetto to music creating a new structure in the process. Now known as ‘Il Barbiere” it is considered Rossini’s greatest work, while the original piece by Paisiello has faded into the obscure sheet-music bins of history.
Critics with a far better appreciation of music than mine can fight about the merits of both men. In the meantime, I am here in the Teatro Paisiello to enjoy a concert by one of Lecce’s new emerging artists Rafaela Ruggiero. But that will be later, at this early hour, the theatre is empty. At some point this diminutive singer will be rehearsing, but until then I can walk through the theatre unencumbered.
The Teatro Paisiello has seating for only 390 persons, making it an intimate venue in every sense of the word. The acoustics of the theatre play off a concave arrangement of box seats and a high ceiling. Three entrances provide access to the main salon and the upper tiers on the left and right.
Ornate gold feathering referred to as “”Bomboniera” (floral arrangement) and so typical of this neo-classic style adorn the exterior of the private cabins above. And on the ceiling up high, a mural of the four seasons looks down upon the theatre’s patrons. I close my eyes and take it all in. Imagining the grand operas and pageantry that occurred within these four walls.
Giovanni Paisiello is one of Lecce’s (and the Puglia region’s) great exports. And the theatre that bears his name serves as a ‘template” of sorts for other opera houses in the south – most notably the Teatro Verde in Naples.
Outside, the hustle and bustle of daily life along Via Palmieri continues unabated. But for those who take the time to enter this historic opera house, the great voices of the past and present continue to be heard.
Teatro Paisiello offers free admittance and is open weekdays from 0900 -1300 and 1700 – 2000. Check the special events list in the lobby for upcoming concerts.
