Maine to Quebec and Back Again
Canada and Maine have banded together to entice visitors to the Kennebec-Chaudiere Corridor. International borders aside, local inhabitants have been traversing the area via land and water for centuries. A number of Maine residents near the border speak fluent French, which makes perfect sense given the geography.
The region derives its name from the Kennebec and Chaudiere Rivers, which meander through the Corridor. Officially the corridor extends from Quebec City in the north to the coastal city of Bath, Maine in the south, and is 273 miles long and 32 miles wide.
The Beginning
In addition to Bath, another possible starting point is Augusta, the state capital. Take a look at the Maine State Museum, encompassing things relevant to this state of delectable lobsters and durable L.L. Bean clothing.
Continuing on, you should pay homage to another significant commodity from this part of the world – maple syrup. One possible stop is at the Arnold Farm Sugarhouse, just off Highway 201. Real maple syrup is a substance unto itself, with only the faintest resemblance to the imitation variety. Regardless of modern technology, producing real syrup requires hard work and plenty of hands-on labor. Ask the hosts for a sample of rich maple cream, it’s luscious and perfect for dipping bite-size pieces of fresh fruit. You won’t be disappointed.
Moose Ahoy!
We were driving near Jackman, an area of northern Maine, known for moose sightings, due to its isolation. Ironically, our group was speaking about the creatures.
The driver was first to notice three cars pulled to the side of the road. Yellowstone may have its buffalo jams, but this was quite possibly a moose jam�happy day! Not far off the highway, standing in a marshy spot was a bull moose. Fearful he would scamper away, we jostled to get out.
No problem! Unlike deer that dart away quickly, this fellow stood motionless as a brown statue. I’d seen moose in Alaska, but none this close. He seemed top heavy, his antlers and massive body resting on precariously skinny legs. By all rights, gravity should topple him over head first, rump to the sky. We stared at him and he unabashedly stared right back.
The mutual gawking lasted at least seven or eight minutes, ample time to observe him and take pictures. Without so much as a backward glance, he turned into the brush and was gone.
Jackman, Maine is officially in the Boon Docks, as my grandma would have said. But that’s a good thing. Who can find fault with an abundance of open space, set against rolling mountain backdrops? Outdoor enthusiasts will find fishing, kayaking and hiking opportunities plentiful.
If snow and cold temperatures are your passion, think Jackman. Snowmobilers and cross-country skiers revel in the hundreds of miles of groomed trails, which radiate from the Jackman hub of the interconnecting trail system.
This stretch of roadway, numbered as SR 201 is known as the Old Canada Road National Scenic Byway. Running between Solon, Maine and the Canadian border, it follows the original trading routes of the Abenaki tribe.
A somewhat more famous name, the Appalachian Trail also cuts across SR 201 at Caratunk. This segment is one small bit of the 14-state, cross-country trail. If you feel so inclined, you can sidetrip to The Forks, north of Caratunk for white water rafting where the Kennebec and the Dead rivers meet.
Continuing Northward, the weather can cool considerably. Beware, just because the calendar reads June, July or August doesn’t mean the temperatures are paying attention. Even in mid-August long pants and light jackets might be necessary.
Across the Border
The Beauce region of Quebec has several pretty towns with sights to see, depending on your travel schedule. In fact, if you have time to meander slowly you could easily spend a week covering the 273 miles of the corridor.
Notre-Dame-Des-Pins is particularly proud of its covered bridge, built in 1929. In the brilliant afternoon sunshine the red structure did provide a dramatic contrast to the green countryside.
In Saint Georges we stopped for a look at the Church of Saint-Georges, considered one of the most beautiful in Quebec. The young guide had such an engaging accent it was a pleasure to listen. If someone can be said to “ooze” enthusiasm, she did. The church has notable artwork and architecture.
On the south side of the St. Lawrence River in Levis, we drove aboard the ferry for a quick, 10-minute ride across the river. Quebec City loomed large and lovely before us.
The city is much like Europe, in both atmosphere and appearance. It’s easy to see why movie makers select the old town for filming, rather than flying across the Atlantic – the architecture is exactly like that of a small European village. One recent film, Catch Me If You Can, with Tom Hanks and Leonardo DiCaprio used this setting.
The old town has gently sloping, narrow streets and window boxes spilling over with flowers. The oldest section of Quebec City can trace its roots back to 1608 and is called the cradle of French civilization in America.
Like a castle or medieval fortress hovering above, the Chateau Frontenac presides over all, with a commanding view of the St. Lawrence River. It’s been called the most photographed hotel in the world.
Built in the days when railroad hotels were meant to dazzle, this structure gets more graceful with time. The old adage “they just don’t build them like they used to…” is apropos for the Frontenac. After nightfall, the exterior lighting on the upper stories creates a radiant scene, drawing the eyes constantly skyward.
Some additional attractions of Quebec City include Artillery Park, which played an important role in the history of the city. Today, costumed actors re-create life in barracks during the French and British eras-a pleasure trip back in time.
Most people make time to see the Basilique Notre Dame de Quebec – a 350 year-old cathedral, which serves as a burial spot for most of Quebec’s bishops. Richly decorated and filled with impressive art, guided tours are available from May to November.
National Battlefields Park includes the famous ‘Plains of Abraham’, where the British defeated the French in 1759 and ended French rule in Canada. Today, Battlefields Park is the city’s premier green space.
When viewed from above, the Citadelle is a star-shaped fortress and it constitutes the eastern flank of Quebec’s fortifications. Construction began in 1820 and lasted more than 30 years. In summer, military tradition is continued with an impressive changing of the guard ceremony and the beating of the retreat.
For a thorough look, plan at least a week to experience Quebec City, which has been designated as a World Heritage City by UNESCO.
Back to Maine
Back in Augusta, we stopped at Old Fort Western. The Corridor has a number of historic military forts surviving as reminders of those early conflicts between the French, English and Native Americans.
Still alive with activity in this millennium, Old Fort Western is a museum and educational facility. It was built in 1754 as part of a defensive system of fortifications to protect the Kennebec and the coastal settlements. Prior to his troubles, Benedict Arnold used the Fort as a staging point for the assault on Quebec in 1775 during the American Revolution. He stayed in the area for three or four days as his boats were completed and supplies loaded.
