Mexico’s Copper Canyon: A Golden Vacation
If you have the money, take a flight from Tucson to Los Mochis and hitch a train. The rails wind from sea level to about 5,000 feet and provide breath-taking views as well as hair-raising twists and turns over trestles, through tunnels and on narrow ridges. You’ll have several trains from which to choose. There’s the more expensive ride with creature comforts. For a keener sense of real Mexico, take the budget train. Don’t expect it to be on time. And don’t fret about the bullet holes in the windows. It just adds to the character.
There are several rustic motels near the rim at Creel, which is the antithesis of the stereotypical dusty Mexican desert town. Oh, it’s dusty all right, but set amid the pine trees, you’ll feel as if you’re on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. And if you need a little taste of home to feel more comfortable, there’s a log-hewn Best Western in Creel.
Take a bus to Divisidero for spectacular views of the canyon, but to really get a sense of the place, rent mountain bikes. This is the mountain bike capital of Mexico.
Another way to get to Cooper Canyon is to drive from the Agua Prieta border crossing in Arizona. It’s a solid eight hours through classic basin-and-range country, but the scenery is pretty, the locals friendly, gas stations plentiful enough and once you’re more than 20 miles inside the border, you’ll feel secure.
Having your own car provides the flexibility to drive into the canyon. It’s worth the drive down, but give yourself an entire day and make sure you have 4-wheel drive. If you’re afraid of heights, bring a blindfold. Some of the hairpin turns have room for only one vehicle to pass.
Another way to go: Hire a Jeep driver to take you to the canyon’s bottom. They have seats on top for that classic wind- and dirt-in-your-teeth feel. Hang on. It’s wilder than a rollercoaster, and much less predictable.
What sets Copper Canyon apart is the Tarahumara. The canyon is so rugged that dialects between the groups are different, depending on whether they’re living on the rim, midway down or at the bottom. The Tarahumara at the bottom can’t communicate in many cases with those at the top.
The Tarahumara are shy. They work at some of the guest lodges, then disperse into the hills at night, many living in caves. If you’re hiking and they see you, they’ll try to hide. But it’s difficult because their garb is so colorful.
You’ll notice that they’ve been exposed to some of the scourge of Western civilization: Plastic cola bottles are everywhere, and NBA jerseys are common as well.
Easter Week is an amazing time to be at Copper Canyon. The Tarahumara men beat drums 24 hours a day, and the primitive sound echoes through the hills and canyons. It’s almost surreal. Wander into town and you’ll catch an Easter ceremony you’ll never forget, like out of a National Geographic special.
Does it feel safe? Yes. Every bit as much as in the U.S., perhaps more so.
The old yarn about not driving at night rings true, but that’s only because the countryside has so many animals, especially cattle.
And the best part is the budget: You can spend as much as you might for a vacation to the other Grand Canyon, or you can rent rustic motels and get by on just a few dollars.
Peering down into the Grand Canyon never gets old; fighting the traffic there does. You’ll never have that problem at Copper Canyon.
