Netherlands Maritime Museum

She may seem small to us now, but Holland was once a powerhouse in world affairs. In particular, the Dutch took to the seas. In the 17th century, they had six major shipbuilding centers. During years from 1600 to 1800, a total of 1,500 ships were constructed. At a time known as the Golden Age, the Dutch East India Company and the Dutch West India Company set out to explore new worlds and establish trade facilities.

In fact, when the United States came into being, Holland was still wealthy enough to make three loans to our new, struggling nation.

Evidence of those prosperous, seafaring times still exists in Amsterdam at the Netherlands Maritime Museum. But, with so many fine museums in the city, it often gets overlooked. If you love ships, the sea or all things nautical, this is the place to be. Their collection is considered one of the largest in the world.

The museum is housed in the 300-year old National Naval Depot, a former arsenal of the Dutch navy, located on the water. We arrived by canal boat, which seemed appropriate and offered a nice view of the surrounding area. The interior courtyard of this square building was previously used to stow cannons and several very old examples can still be found there.

The entire collection tells the story of the maritime past of the Netherlands, using artifacts such as ancient maps, exceptional artwork, weapons, navigational instruments and hundreds of outstanding ship models. Changing exhibits are also part of their program.

Since the three-story building includes 25 rooms and over 250,000 objects, it’s a good idea to pick up a “Highlights” booklet on your first visit. A suitable introduction, 12 of the most important exhibits are listed with background material. Although you will probably walk through all the rooms, (they’re in numbered sequence) you can peruse the items and displays as your schedule allows.

Room three contains the largest canvas in the collection, an impressive, highly detailed painting of the 1607 Battle of Gibraltar. It depicts the Dutch fleet and their Spanish enemy. Though a hard fought battle, it ended in favor of the Netherlands.

Another noteworthy item is a model of the passenger ship William Ruys, in room 23. In 1958, the ship was refitted as an early entry into the luxury cruise ship market, operating all over the world. By 1964 the ship was purchased by an Italian shipowner and renamed the Achille Lauro. Unfortunately, the Achille Lauro made world headlines in 1985, when Palestinians hijacked it, killing one person. Even today, most of us still recognize the name of that ill-fated ship. She’s but a sad memory now, as in December 1994, the ship sank off the East coast of Africa, following a fire.

Don’t miss the royal barge, situated on the ground floor (no room number). A ceremonial barge used only for special occasions, it was presented to King William I by the Dutch people in 1818. The museum was forced to remove part of the building facade to get the bulky but splendid watercraft inside.

The barge, reminiscent of Cleopatra, has the sea God Neptune enthroned in a large shell on the bow. Beside him are his two sons, the Tritons. In truth, the design was probably taken from a similar barge owned by Emperor Napoleon, but lovely Cleo would have looked right at home on this posh boat. All the decorations on the ship are coated in eye-catching gold leaf.

Outside, the focal point in the harbor is the Amsterdam. The ship, known as a Dutch East Indiaman, is a full-scale replica and much-loved by the citizens of the Netherlands. Work began on the ship in 1985 and included the help of 400 dedicated volunteers. It’s been at the museum since 1990.

The first Amsterdam departed for Asia in January 1749. However, the voyage was destined for catastrophe. Filled with 230 sailors, five passengers and 127 soldiers, the ship first lost 50 men due to disease, then another 40 became seriously ill. Matters went from bad to worse, as the ship was then caught in a harsh storm.

Skipper Willem Klump wisely decided to seek shelter near shore in the Bay of Hastings, in England, but the fates were against this voyage. The brand new ship rapidly sank in the mud. The captain was able to save everyone on board and some of the silver, but the remainder of the cargo and the brand new ship were lost. (Overall, not a red-letter week for Mr. Klump.) The wreck, essentially just the hull, can still be seen at low tide.

The Amsterdam was an exception. In the 17th and 18th centuries, similar ships made 4,800 voyages from the Netherlands to Asia. Only 2 percent, or less than 100 ships, were wrecked. Most East Indiamen, laden with all sorts of commodities, sailed safely to Asia in eight months.

Allow time to climb aboard and explore the Amsterdam. Costumed actors recreate the life and times of the sailors and can answer questions. We were just in time to watch a cannon firing demonstration, along with a group of clipboard carrying high school kids. Next came sea chanties – very entertaining.

Several other ships are nearby. The steam ship Christiaan Brunings, commissioned in 1900, is still in working order and offers rides several times daily. The ship was donated to the museum in 1968 and has been maintained by volunteers since that time.

The museum hours are 10 a.m.-5p.m., Tuesday to Saturday. A small admission fee is charged. They’re also open Mondays from mid-June to mid-September and during school holidays. There’s a coffee shop, great for an afternoon pick-me-up, and gift shop on the premises.