Note on Developing a New Method for the Lapped Seam

Remember that the lapped seam is sewn wrong side to wrong side which means that the stitching lines are seen on the right side; There are guides to when to use the lapped seam at different parts of the garment i.e. the shoulder seam, side seams etc. But the lapped seam is about lapping ; it is about overlapping and you could say that it is about underlapping too. So how do you develop a new method for the lapped seam?

For the general lapped seam, you can snip off the seam allowance amount of the overlapping fabric and then overlap this upper fabric onto the seamline of the underlying fabric; remember that the fabrics are wrong side to wrong side and the stitching lines are on the right side.

Another method for the lapped seam is by turning the seam allowance of the upper fabric inside; thus you are still ‘removing’ the seam allowance from the upper fabric. If you want to develop a new method for the lapped seam, the aim is to obviously ‘remove’ this seam allowance. Remember too that the lapped seam is about lapping. Thus when you fold in the seam allowance. The aim is to fold the seam allowance inside. There is no need expressly for a permanent sewing line. Then this overlapping fabric meets the underlying fabric, wrong side to wrong side. The finishing stitching can be express topstitching but this topstitching, although it looks like topstitching, is what binds the seam so the topstitching is more than decorative. You can also slipstitch.

Remember with the lapped seam that the final seam line is on the right side. This fact is a guide to when to use lapped seams and they are generally used on non-fraying fabrics. This is because there seems to be an obvious weakness to the lapped seam compared to a plain seam which is then overlocked and thus the risk of fraying is reduced. When developing a new method for the lapped seam, this risk of fraying must be reduced.