Novi Sad, Serbia: For Tourists

Nestled on the Danube, this capital city of the Serbian province of Vojvodina welcomes tourists as it rebuilds itself in the wake of 1999 Kosovo War bombings by NATO. In Serbian, Novi Sad means “new planting,” ironic nomenclature for a city that lost its bridges and other critical parts of its infrastructure. Fortunately, many of Novi Sad’s oldest buildings – churches, museums, and other cultural institutions – survived the war. As the second largest city in the loose federation of Serbia and Montenegro, Novi Sad is emerging as a small but lovely mix of historical charm and Balkan sophistication. Tourist have flocked to Novi Sad for sports and music events in recent years, including the 2005 Eurobasket games and the annual EXIT music festival (which featured headliners like Garbage, the White Stripes, and Fatboy Slim in 2005). Novi Sad makes a sweet Serbian tourist destination because it is compact and walkable yet rich with restaurants, shopping, art, and nightlife.

Getting to Novi Sad

Novi Sad lacks a commercial airport of its own, so connections from Belgrade (only 80km away) must be made by bus or train if one is flying into Serbia. Because it is on the train path leading to Belgrade, rail is a convenient way to arrive in Novi Sad from Budapest, Vienna, Zagreb, Munich, Ljubljana and other points north/west of the city. The trip is about five hours from Budapest. From points south/east of Novi Sad, trains departing Athens, Bucharest, Skopje, and Sofia will pass through Belgrade on the way. Buses also serve Novi Sad directly from outside of Serbia, usually via Hungary or Croatia. Some Danube cruises also stop in Novi Sad, though typically for only a few hours.

Getting around Novi Sad

Many of the main tourist attractions in Novi Sad are within walking distance of one another. The city centre boasts the bulk of attractions, including cultural spots, restaurants, and nightlife. Public transit is available on buses for a nominal fee, but taxis in Novi Sad are remarkably inexpensive compared to most European cities, with fares usually under $5 for most trips.

Accommodations in Novi Sad

Novi Sad is not a luxury city, so its hotels are usually modest and comfortable. Hotel Park and Hotel Zenit are both well-appointed, centrally located, and quite affordable given their higher-end status in town (rooms range from about $80 – $120). Hotel Novi Sad is slightly cheaper, providing clean rooms across from the bus and train stations for only $50 or so.

If you’re backpacking your way through Serbia and looking for a hostel, Brankovo Kolo is bright and cheery, though spartan, for only about $15 a bed. They have over 300 spaces, so it’s a very popular place for students and other young explorers. Visit the hostel online at www.hostelns.com.

Sights in Novi Sad

Petrovaradin Fortress. Evolving from a medieval fort on the side of Fruska Gora, this timeless citadel overlooks the Danube River, providing splendid views. As a symbol of pride for Serbians, this site welcomes the ever-growing EXIT music festival. It also features a strange clock tower on which the long hand shows the hour and the short hand shows the minutes.

Liberty Square / Trg Slobode. This public space is grounded by two other symbols of Novi Sad: the neoclassical city hall and the Roman Catholic cathedral devoted to St. Mary. Particularly striking are the sleek, dramatic tower of the cathedral, its stained glass, its elaborately carved altar, and its three naves.

Dunavska Street. One of the major streets in Novi Sad’s city centre, Dunavska is full of shops, restaurants, and other tourist-friendly duck-ins. 29 Dunavska Street is a curiously attractive light green building that houses a small but impressive gallery of foreign paintings and objects, including a Rembrandt painting.

Zmaj Jovina Street. This notable avenue begins with the visually appealing Bishop of Backa Palace (home to the Serbian Orthodox Church leader for Novi Sad) and a monument to Serbian poet Zmaj Jova, the street’s namesake.

Matica Srpska. In contrast to the foreign art gallery at 29 Dunavska, this larger museum houses Serbian art and folk items – including work by painters Vladan Stevic and Uros Predic.

The Strand. Though Novi Sad doesn’t enjoy any of the Adriatic Coast, it uses its city beach on the Danube River as a sandy spot for Serbs to don skimpy swimsuits while sunbathing.

In addition to the sights above, tourists should visit some of Novi Sad’s monasteries, other churches, the national theatre, and (of course) the hopping bars and clubs, home to the trendy but accessible nightlife.