Rostock, Germany – Embracing Tourism with an Eye to the Future
Rostock has survived tougher tests. Because it was a base for both ship and airplane building, the city suffered heavy bombing during World War II. Almost half of the dwellings were destroyed along with a number of historic buildings. In the spring of 1945, Rostock reached a low point in its centuries-old existence, but like a phoenix has risen again.
One significant building not lost was the Convent of the Holy Cross, now housing a Cultural museum. Featuring a number of medieval artifacts, it’s believed Queen Margarete of Denmark erected the ancient structure. She donated the convent in 1270 in penance for her sins after being shipwrecked off the coast. As of my visit in May 04, all the labeling within the museum was in German only, but the curators are working to get things translated for English-speaking visitors.
Rostock is known for its university, considered the oldest in the Baltic area. Wealthy citizens financed the original buildings, when the Pope gave his approval in the year 1419. Now, about 12,000 students are enrolled.
We ate one evening at Zur Kogge, which roughly translates to “at the sign of the ship.” This traditional port tavern still caters to travelers seeking food and drink when far from home. But it’s popular with locals too. The dark wood interiors and vast amount of memorabilia drew my eyes away from the food and onto the decor. I ordered a mild type of fish called Zander and a seasonal dessert made of red berries blended together then topped with thick cream.
A suburb of Rostock, the port village of Warnemunde is a major attraction, perhaps more so than the historic sights. Over the course of its existence, the community has been transformed from a remote fishing village to bathing spa to popular seaside resort. Germans have been visiting for the fresh sea air and sandy beach for a long time although it’s lesser known to those outside the region.
Rostock and Warnemunde are embracing tourism with an eye to the future. Car ferries constantly criss-cross this section of the Baltic as they have for decades. Daily ferries leave for Sweden, Denmark, Estonia and Finland with passengers and goods. Increasingly, other nationalities are finding the charm of this once isolated village.
Michael, my young escort from the tourism office was enthusiastic. “We keep records and our visitors from Saudi Arabia increased by 100 percent. We went from three visitors last year to six,” he quipped with a grin. All joking aside, the economy of former East Germany can use the tourism dollars and they offer good value in return.
American cruise ships are now docking at the port, as part of Baltic Sea itineraries. A group of Texans disembarked from a Celebrity line cruise ship last summer and made a lasting impression on the German people.
Michael spoke of the “Texans” as if they were a nationality all their own. Perhaps they seem that way to Europeans. Prior to 1989 very few Americans, Texans or otherwise, trod the streets of Warnemunde and for locals it must still be a novelty. Everywhere I went people were eager to chat, especially when they found out I was American.
Whether by plan or just coincidence, this beach resort has only one high-rise hotel. The Hotel Neptune is very posh and includes a full-service spa. I was treated to a seaweed bath, with specially imported algae from France, or so I was told. Algae all looks and smells the same to me, but I did my best to look suitably impressed.
My smiling therapist Eva had limited English, so I didn’t ask why French algae was the preferred choice. Afterward, my skin did feel noticeably softer. The large windows in the treatment room allowed me to watch the car ferries as the dark green water bubbled and gurgled around the jetted tub.
The Neptune has a window-lined cafe on one of the top floors, with views to take your breath away and baked treats to take your hunger away. Delicious chocolate cake and aromatic coffee, together with a birds eye view of the Baltic Sea, is a fine way to spend an hour.
Later in the day, Michael and I climbed the circular steps of the old lighthouse to look over the promenade and the beach. At one time, the lighthouse must have been the tallest structure around. I could see the Hotel Neptune in the distance-connecting past to present.
My stay was arranged at the Hotel Sonne, in the heart of Rostock.
