Ryokans – Japan’s Traditional Hotels Offer Travelers a Cultural Experience
I discovered ryokans on my first trip of Japan. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn and a weary traveler’s paradise. Ryokans start at 4000Ã?Â¥ and can escalate in price to 25,000Ã?Â¥ per night. The fee includes three amazing Japanese experiences for one price-comfortable lodging, exotic meals and a spotless spa!
Great, you’ve decided to take the plunge and seek out a ryokan. First things first, you may come up against a language barrier, as ryokans do not cater to Western guests. Don’t get me wrong, the staff is completely delighted to have your business, but they won’t be obsequious. I suggest having a guidebook handy, or having a Japanese speaking friend jot down a few key phrases for you prior to check in.
After you’ve successfully navigated the sign-in desk, you’ll be escorted to your room. First things first, take your shoes off and leave them at the doorway. Japanese are very meticulous about their house keeping. Shoes are considered unclean and are not to be brought inside the home. Slippers are provided for guests to protect the hand woven reed tatami mats.
The room will be sparsely decorated. Simple furnishings will consist of a low table and a chairs set in the middle of the room. Adapt to the Asian influence as quickly as possible. Neatly tuck your belongings away and sit down for refreshments. A sip of warm green tea should melt any vestiges of stress from your body. Enjoy your tea and sweat treat (my favorite were anko cookies made with a sweet adzuki bean paste) and bask in the serenity of the inn. The austere room is a welcome relief after a bustling train ride or a crowded flight. Before leaving you, a staff member will inquire when you would like dinner. When selecting your dinner time, make sure to allow time for an exquisite Japanese custom-a hot pre-dinner bath.
Now that you are alone, look in your closet. A simple cotton robe and belt should be provided. Slip into your yukata (informal robe) and wrap the obi (belt) around your waist. Before heading off to the bath, give the guidebook a quick glance to memorize the different Japanese characters for men and women. Things could get a bit embarrassing if enter the wrong changing room!
“Onsens” or Japanese baths have three distinct areas. The first area is a changing room with compartments to hang up your robe and set your slippers. Grab a towel and move on to the next area.
You will see a row of small stools lined up in front of faucets. Each stool designates a bathing station. Set out your toiletry supplies and hang up your towel. Use the hose attached to the faucet to rinse off. Give yourself a thorough soaping and scrubbing with a loofah or washcloth. It is considered extremely uncouth to set foot into the communal bath without being thoroughly clean.
Once you are squeaky clean, make your way to the third area the steamy hot spring bath. Carefully slip into the hot pool-no splashing please. Most bathers are silent and take the ritual bath in a serene fashion. Many spas have outdoor baths where mist will rise up from your body as the warm water meets the cool air. What a wonderful way to unwind after a long day of exploring temples or shopping for Japanese treasures!
After the bath, wrap up in your yukata (don’t change back into your clothes) and prepare yourself for a sumptuous meal. Dinner will be served back in your room. Much like the bath, dinner shouldn’t be a rushed affair. It’s all about pace, as ryokans serve 12-18 dishes at dinner. As tempting as it may be, don’t load up at the beginning of the meal. Lighter dishes such as salads and cold sushi and sashimi will arrive first. Next, will be the tempura, warm udon noodles or sukiyaki (meat in broth) and there is always plenty of steamed rice. Be adventurous and try everything, even those things you don’t recognize. You can request many types of beverages with your meal. I suggest asking for a sake recommendation (note: beverages, beyond tea and water, will be an extra charge).
After you’ve enjoyed your dinner, the ryokan staff will slip back into the room. Dinner dishes will be removed in a flash. The table will be set off to the side of the room. A futon magically surfaces from the closet. In a few moments, the adroit workers will have the bed made up with linens.
Tuck yourself into your comfortable bed and savor every moment of this special day. You’ll have no problems drifting into a deep and restful sleep – a great ryokan can tempt even the most jetlagged traveler into dreamland.
Finding a ryokan is a relatively simple task. Most comprehensive guidebooks will have a special listing of these inns. There are also websites available for independent travelers (try www.japaneseguesthouses.com). Two of my favorite ryokans in Japan are the Sera Bekkan in Hiroshima and the Tokan-so Ryokan in Nikko. Once you’ve tried a ryokan I bet you’ll be a convert for life.
