Safe Travel in Turkmenistan
What makes travel to Turkmenistan less safe? What is the Niyazov regime like?
If you think North Korean leader Kim Jong-il is the world’s most reclusive, eccentric, self-idolizing leader, you may not have been introduced to Saparmurat Niyazov of Turkmenistan. His strangely oppressive regime has instituted unusual laws and invented cultural artifacts in an attempt to “create” a Turkmen identity largely based on his glorification. It’s not as though the nation had no identity previous to Niyazov’s rule; the people were just largely nomadic and had taken on elements of the cultures by which they were conquered. But since Niyazov took office and led Turkmenistan from Soviet rule to independence, he has developed a cult of personality, declaring himself the supreme leader of all Turkmen for life.
How extensive is the regime, you ask? Niyazov has written the national epic, and his writings constitute most of the rudimentary Turkmen educational system. (To get a driver’s license or a government job, citizens have to recite portions of his compositions word for word.) He’s closed all hospitals outside the capital of Ashgabat, replacing medical professionals with untrained military personnel, a move which received international criticism. He’s renamed the months of the year after family members and himself. He’s banned ballet and opera. He’s plastered his face and name all over the country as to indoctrinate children into believing his is superhuman. The golden example (literally) of his self-idolatry was the installation of a monument called the Arch of Neutrality – a giant public statue of Niyazov that rotates to face the sun. Taking these examples into consideration, it’s easy to see how non-Turkmen travelers will encounter difficulty entering and navigating the country safely and without insult to the dictator.
Westerners are regarded with suspicion by the government, belongings are subject to search, customs can be difficult, and police are often corrupt. Though Turkmenistan has eschewed the same world-wide attention Uzbekistan receives for its human rights violations, the current Turkmen regime is not exactly friendly to outsiders, so travelers must exercise caution.
Visas and Entry Requirements
Obtaining the appropriate paperwork to visit Turkmenistan is essential for safe, hassle-free entry. The process begins with a visa application, administered by the embassy in Washington. They require your original passport (not a copy), photos, two completed applications, a sponsorship letter, and a fee. If you need the materials mailed to you, you’ll even have to provide an envelope with necessary postage. The sponsor must either be a private Turkmen citizen (with whom you would have to stay while in Turkmenistan) or a state-okayed travel agency (in which case you will have to stay at a registered hotel). The visa fee itself is sliding, depending on how long you plan to stay in the country. It’s crucial that you are honest and forthright about your plans because you could be fined and jailed if your visa expires or is incomplete in its descriptions. For details and a copy of the visa application, visit www.turkmenistanembassy.org.
In addition to a valid passport and visa which must be obtained before arrival, Turkmen authorities will require you to purchase an immigration card for about $10 upon entry (at the airport in Ashgabat). You can pay for this in US Dollars, which are a sort of de facto currency in Turkmenistan, even though Manat is the official legal tender.
Due to Turkmenistan’s volatile location (it borders Afghanistan, Iran, and Uzbekistan – yikes!), not all parts of the country are accessible to visitors. Some zones are restricted, and violators can be fined and jailed. To the extent that Turkmenistan is safe, the capital of Ashgabat is the best place for foreigners. US citizens should register with the American embassy (http://turkmenistan.usembassy.gov – no www) so they can obtain assistance if problems arise.
For visitors staying more than three days, there is also a separate required registration with the Turkmen government’s SARF (State Agency for the Registration of Foreigners) – as if the visa process and the immigration card were not already sufficient. Registering with the United States embassy does NOT simultaneously register you with the SARF, and you can face an exit delay, fine, or arrest if you do not comply. To register with SARF, you must head to a special office in Ashgabat, Balkanabat, Dasoguz, Mary, or Turkmenabat.
Ideally, the safest routine is to land at the Ashgabat airport, obtain the immigration card, register with the SARF, and then visit the American embassy. If staying at a hotel that can provide copy services, ask them to make copies if your in-country documents for you. (You should bring copies of your visa and passport with you on the flight, carried in a separate place from your originals.)
Crime
The most common crime is theft – particularly pickpocketing at public markets, as these are crowded and tourist-luring. However, violent crime is also rising. It’s not so much that Turkmen citizens are intentionally targeting Americans, though this sometimes happens. Rather, it’s that Western tourists are seen as wealthy and naÃ?¯ve enough to be manipulated through the brandishing of a knife (most common) or a gun (less common). Be on guard at all times, and carry money on different parts of your body
Prostitution
Americans do not automatically assume that women walking around at night are prostitutes, but sometimes Turkmen authorities make this assessment, as the world’s oldest profession is considered a common social ill in the country. American men in particular should avoid being seen alone with Turkmen women, and American women should avoid walking alone at night. Both solicitation of prostitution and the act itself, even if based on subjective assessments, are punishable with fines and jail time.
Customs
Surprise! Customs regulations in Turkmenistan are strict. The popular local handicraft, beautiful Turkmen rugs, are a sensitive matter for the Niyazov regime because they are cultural items of great value. If you plan to purchase a carpet, you’ll be required to obtain a certificate stating that the carpet is not of national historical significance and thus safe for tourists to purchase and remove from the country. Be prepared to pay a hefty carpet tax upon departure, as well as taxes (some seemingly random) on items that could be perceived as Turkmen artifacts. Also, it’s best not to bring any jewelry into Turkmenistan. Besides attracting thieves, you may also rouse the suspicions of a customs agent upon departing if he thinks you’ve purchased the jewelry there
Other Suggestions
– Arrange all taxi fares in advance, and try not to hire a taxi by yourself if you are female. Your approach could be misinterpreted as sexual in nature.
– Avoid taking pictures of anything that would rouse suspicion. Stick to very obvious attractions like monuments or natural scenery.
– Carry both Manat and US Dollars in Turkmenistan. It is hard to predict exactly which merchants will require which currency. If you work with your bank ahead of time, they may be able to special order some Manat for you so that you can enter the country with some local currency and avoid (or reduce) the need for exchange in Ashgabat. You will almost never be able to use traveler’s checks or credit cards.
