San Juan Island, Washington – a Chance to Escape
Roche Harbor Resort
Evolving from a 1850’s Hudson Bay Company trading post to a modern resort, Roche Harbor mixes both old and new. Located on the northern tip of the island, the resort is just a thirty minute trip from Friday Harbor by following Roche Harbor Road.
You can also choose to sail to the harbor and tie up at the guest marina. You will be greeted by the sight of the former McMillin mansion transformed into the Hotel de Haro and restaurant, which along with the prize-winning formal gardens are the central attraction of the area. Small retail shops, a grocery store, and restaurants round out this small village.
You can stroll down the marine and boardwalk, or you take a short one mile hike to the McMillin mausoleum to the north of the harbor. To find the dirt path, walk down Roche Harbor Road until you reach the cemetery. On the right you will find a dirt road, which leads to the several stairs and then the mausoleum.
Surrounded by a forest, the mausoleum stands in silence with its seven columns, one broken to represent how life is broken by death, encircling a stone table with six chairs. The ashes of the McMillin family are said to be encased in the bases of each chair.
Remnants Of The Pig War
The English and American camps, now national historic parks, remind visitors of how the United States and Great Britain nearly went to war over a pig. Due to vague territory language in the Treaty of 1846, San Juan Island was claimed by both the United States and Great Britain. With the death of an American pig by a Hudson Bay Company worker, tempers flared in 1859, and troops and ships soon amassed. Not until 1872, was the issue of territory decided by an impartial arbitrator, the Kaiser of Germany.
By taking Roche Harbor Road, then turning at West Valley Road, you will arrive at the English camp tucked in amongst trees on northwest side of the island. Four of the original buildings have been restored at the camp, along with a formal garden.
In stark contrast, the American camp sits on a wind swept plain on the southern tip of the island, which you can reach by following Cattle Point Road out of Friday Harbor. During summer months, you may have the chance to listen to one of the lectures or guided tours by the rangers and volunteers dressed in period costumes from the 1800’s. Or you can follow the 3/4 mile interpretive trail through the historic portion of the park. Signs along the way describe the events of the Pig War as well as park features.
During the summer months you may also find archeology students from the University of Washington excavating sites at the English and American camps for Native American and pioneer artifacts. Many of the discoveries are housed at either of the camps’ interpretive centers.
Whale Watching
While you can choose a whale watching boat tour from the Mosquito Fleet, you can also watch for orca whales along the west and south side of the island. The American camp and the Lime Kiln Point State Park, located on the West Side Road, offer prime viewing locations as the orcas feed in the Haro Strait.
Friday Harbor
While waiting for the return ferry trip, take the opportunity to explore Friday Harbor’s many shops and restaurants. You will find antique shops, local artists’ works, and San Juan confections. If you are looking for a t-shirt or sweatshirt, pop into King’s Market (160 Spring Street West – Friday Harbor, Washington), a local grocery store where you will also find other Friday Harbor and San Juan mementoes.
If you didn’t get the chance to see the whales in the strait, you can visit the Whale Museum (62 First Street North – Friday Harbor, Washington) opens 9 am to 6 pm daily July and August and 10 am to 5 pm the rest of the year. Exhibits include real whale skeletons, replica whales, videos, local whale history, and a chance to hear the whales “sing.”
At the end of the day, the ferry returns you to the hurry up speed of the mainland and leaves the peaceful San Juan Island behind.
