San Sebastian and La Concha
The pace is nice and slow along San Sebastian’s stunning beachfront, and after five minutes you know why: The visitors around you want to enjoy every minute here. And who are you to want it any other way? If you’re looking for a more hectic atmosphere or that big-city hustle and bustle, drive back to Barcelona or the 400 kilometers back down south to Madrid.
The Bay de La Concha and its long, beautiful, crescent-moon beach form a cradle for the beautiful Basque capital of San Sebastian, which rests serenely there along the nearby mountain peaks. San Sebastian also goes by the name of Donostia (in Basque) and is the administrative hub of Guipuzcoa, the Spanish autonomous community.
Up at the northeast corner of Spain on the Bay of Biscay and very near to the French border, San Sebastian’s stunning coastline has always been one of the most popular beach resort areas in all of northern Spain. And if you take a short car trip to the top of Monte Igeldo, the headland jutting out on the eastern side of the bay, you’ll be astounded at just how beautiful a city San Sebastian is – and how it could be that it hasn’t attracted more tourism then it already has. It is frequently compared to Rio de Janeiro and the comparison is a good one.
One reason for its lack of renown, of course, is the brutality of the ETA terror and their bombing campaign to gain independence for the Basque country. But the citizens of San Sebastian don’t seem to want anything to do with politics and it appears as if the violence might finally be winding down.
Another reason could also be, of all things, the rain. San Sebastian is more often than not pursued by rainfall. This also has a few advantages too, however. The more rain, the more green and lush the northern Spanish coastline has become and is a pleasant change of pace for many a big city dweller to the south, tormented by the infamous Spanish heat.
San Sebastian is very easy city to walk, and not terribly big. It’s a sophisticated place with a long, 120 year old tradition of beach culture. Even the Spanish royal family holidayed and built a summer residence here. And you will immediately get a feel for this tradition when walking along the beach promenade or down to the sea’s edge. The older buildings all have that-certain-something touch, something of that Belle Epoque feeling to them. But don’t think that San Sebastian hasn’t kept up with the times. Surfing has also caught on big here (Biarritz is just up the road) with surfing championships being held here on a regular basis.
Entering the old town with its many narrow streets and alleyways gives you the distinct impression of somehow having stumbled into a labyrinth. And every one of these ancient streets is filled with excellent Basque restaurants and bars, many of them internationally renowned. The “tapas” taste just as wonderful here as they do everywhere else in Spain and, again as elsewhere in this great country, the appreciation of good food is, well, very appreciated.
And let’s not forget the many cultural events that San Sebastian is now well-known for. The San Sebastian Jazz Festival, for one thing, and the San Sebastian Film Festival, as well. Cycling is wildly popular here (the Tour de France regularly zips by here) as is, as mentioned before, surfing.
And it doesn’t always have to be San Sebastian when visiting San Sebastian. The fascinating new Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is just a short drive down northern Spain’s new freeway system. And “Hemmingway’s” Pamplona is just a hop, skip and a jump from here. And then there’s southeastern France just 20 kilometers awayâÂ?¦
Get the picture? San Sebastian may not be exactly what you would call a well-kept secret, but don’t hesitate to come here before everybody else overruns it. And while you’re wondering why you haven’t come to this beautiful city before now, have a relaxing walk, at the pace you want, along one of the finest beaches you will ever see.
