Spain’s Spectacular Segovia
The Spanish have a lot of nerve. The wealth of monuments to be found in this country has to rival that of any other nation on earth. Spanish cuisine is phenomenal and richly varied, always served in a friendly, “slow” atmosphere and even affordable. Spain’s long history is magnificent and alive. And the Spanish themselves are, well, unreasonably friendly. But no, they are not content to stop there. They have to rub our noses in it by also having Segovia.
Segovia is one of the most spectacular sights you will ever see while traveling in Europe. The UNESCO was right to add it to its official “Heritage of Mankind” collection back in 1985.
Located on a rocky escarpment between the Eresma and Clamores Rivers, Segovia’s history is a particularly long one. The first historical reference to it dates back to the year 192 A.D., when its Celtic (“Celiberian”) inhabitants were defeated by Roman forces. And Roman forces are still present in a way. After having visited this city, it’s the Roman influence that will remain most firmly sketched upon your memory. It is namely the breathtaking Roman aqueduct that has become the icon of this beautiful city.
Nobody knows exactly when this magnificent structure was actually constructed (most likely under Emperor Trajan in the first century A.D.), but is by far the most important example of Roman civil engineering to be found in Spain. It is 800 meters long, 30 meters high and was built using 20,000 massive granite blocks. No mortar and no cement were used, by the way. This fascinating, beautifully symmetrical monster has been standing here for 2000 years and still produces a certain hypnotic effect upon the onlooker (well, it did on this one). Perhaps it’s the very age of the aqueduct that so fascinates its visitors. At any rate, the local folk must have been fascinated at one point, too. A Segovian legend maintains that the aqueduct was actually put up overnight by the devil himself because of a Segovian maiden was tired of fetching water from the river all that time – and sold her soul to him in exchange.
The Alc�¡zar Fortress is another formidable sight. Dating back to the twelfth century, this defensive fortress became all the more prestigious after having become a royal residence. Filipe II was one of the many famous residents to live at this address. And Isabel resided here when she was proclaimed queen. It was also here where she received Columbus and promised funding for his fateful Atlantic adventures.
And if medieval city walls are your thing, then this is the place to be. Practically the entire city is enclosed by irregular sections of ancient, defensive walls known as Las Murallas. Walking along these beautiful walls is a practical way to enjoy Segovia’s surroundings. If you take the Paseo de Santo Domingo de GuzmÃ?¡n, for instance, you will be able to encircle Segovia’s perimeter. Taking the Paseo de los Hoyos offers you a beautiful view of the AlcazÃ?¡r.
Once you reach the Plaza Mayor, you can have a leisurely look at Segovia’s Gothic 16th-century Cathedral. This light-colored structure is very big and very imposing and is known as the “Dame” among Spanish cathedrals. Its 90 meter tall tower is impressive in and of itself and the Cathedral also houses a cloister and a museum famous for its many beautiful alter pieces.
You will see that it’s easy to work up an appetite here, and you can thank your lucky stars that the Spanish are in charge of the cooking here – who else? There are dozens of excellent restaurants in Segovia and their quality is consistently good. I won’t recommend a particular restaurant, but I will recommend that you keep an open mind about a few of the local specialities, among them cochinillo (roast suckling pig), lechazo (suckling lamb) and sopa castellana (a strong garlic soup). If you can still handle dessert after that (I doubt it), try something called ponche segoviano. But don’t plan on getting up again for about an hour after having eaten it, just keep enjoying your after-dinner cafÃ?©(s) – it’s incredibly filling.
It’s very easy to get to Segovia. Madrid lies a mere 50 miles to the south of town and it takes less than an hour to drive here. Do plan on spending the night here, however. Segovia my be small in size, but when it comes to bang for your sightseeing buck, this place really packs a punch.
