Splendor in Spain, Lodging in a Parador
Paradors are an exclusive group of hotels maintained by the Spanish government since their inception in the 1920s. It proved to be a shrewd idea, offering hotel accommodation in areas where it might not be profitable for a private company. Thus a number of the paradors are off the beaten track, well off the beaten path, in fact.
A secondary incentive for setting up the paradors was to preserve and restore ancient structures. They can be found within medieval fortresses, castles, manor houses, hospices, and convents.
What a creative idea-someone was thinking outside the box, well before the term was coined. The concept of such practical re-use of historic buildings appeals to me, especially as it may have saved these structures from ruin.
While visiting Spain in May of 2005, I unpacked my bags at two impressive paradors, in the towns of Cuenca and Almagro.
The parador in Cuenca provides luxury within a sixteenth century building. Once a Dominican convent, the structure is perched overlooking the gorge and the old town. Like the medieval houses for which Cuenca is famous, the balconies of this parador jut out over rocky cliffs. Both the setting and the structure are extraordinary.
Lists of the “best” paradors are often compiled. For its truly stunning location, Cuenca is usually among them.
Across the gorge are the famous “Casas Colgadas” which means hanging or suspended houses. At first glance the old buildings appear so vulnerable, but still they cling to the rocks, defying nature.
By European standards, my room in Cuenca was exceptionally large. It held a comfortable seating area, with a full-size sofa.
The parador in Almagro dates from 1596 and was the Convent of San Francisco. They now use the former monastic cells as guest rooms. But don’t worry, bathrooms have been added. I had a leafy view from my wood-shuttered window, to the gardens and swimming pool below.
There was such tranquility in this parador, probably a hold-over from the distant past, or so I mused. Once under the covers, it was absolute silence, not a car sound, nor a voice, or even a creak.
While I didn’t have time to explore them all, the parador has fourteen courtyards, plus a fair share of bubbling fountains.
Among other things, Almagro is a lace-making town. Each evening a “lady of a certain age” came to the parador lobby to create lace. I purchased a very pretty, small piece for about twenty-five dollars.
Every parador has a restaurant showcasing the local gastronomy in an unusual architectural setting. Award-winning chefs craft meals that utilize the produce, fowl, fish and game of the region.�¯�¿�½
Not all paradors are created equal, thus some are grander than others. Nevertheless, they continue to be very popular, so you’ll need to make advance reservations, in some cases up to a year ahead.
There are currently over 80 paradors in Spain.
