Take the Tour of Chocolate Through Brussels

Most tourists treat Brussels as the middle child of European capitals. It lacks the beauty, culture and sophistication of its older sister Paris. It cannot compete with the personality of Amsterdam’s coffee shops and Red Light District. Most determined European tourist who desire to discover for themselves whether this reputation is justified visit only the Grand Place and the Manneken Pis (the statue of the peeing boy) and conclude the city has a well deserved reputation. The most determined tourists will also stop at a restaurant and have a bowl of mussels and Leffe beer before continuing on their journey. Tourists such as these miss the most delicious aspect of Brussels, chocolate.

Belgium considers itself the world’s finest producer of chocolate. But so do the Swiss, the French claim to make good chocolate as well, and everyone’s stomach growls on hearing the phrase “German chocolate cake.” Undoubtedly, each of these countries produce excellent chocolate. However, only Belgium can claim to be the home of at least half of the top ten world producers of fine chocolate. There is no other city where a tourist can stroll along quaint cobble stone streets, visit the main historical sites and become a chocolate connoisseur.

2. Tasting Chocolate

You should not approach tasting fine chocolate as you would an ordinary chocolate bar. Chocolate bars, such as Snickers, are meant to satisfy the empty pit in your stomach and give you a boost of energy. Fine chocolate is a delicacy and tasting is an art. You will better appreciate the experience by understanding the subtle differences between world class chocolate and chocolate suitable only as a present to an uninformed mother-in-law.

First observe the chocolate. Chocolate should have luster and even in color. Chocolate should have a polished look and be free from cracks and blemishes. Stay away from chocolate that has whitish streaks or spots. Chocolate that appears less-than-perfect suggests the producer has cut costs by improper handling and storage conditions.

Chocolate, like wine, should have a nose. Quality chocolate will have a pure, rich, and flavorful smell. Chocolate that has a burnt, smoky or chemical smell falls short of receiving a world class designation. The aromas contained in flavored chocolate should balance and not over power the pure chocolate aroma.

Finally, chocolate should have a clean break. Before taking the first bite, test the structure of the chocolate by breaking it in half. Chocolate should break clean and crisp. Quality chocolate will give an audible “snap” when broken. It should not crumble, bend or break into layers. Temperature is important in this regard. The ideal temperature to serve chocolate is 20 degrees centigrade. If chocolate is too warm it will separate. Chocolate that is too cold will splinter.

After examining the chocolate you are ready to take your first bite. Also like wine, chocolate needs to be tasted before consuming. The first bite should not be much larger than a nibble. The chocolate should crack when you bite and not crumble or have a chewy texture. Place the bit on the roof of your mouth and observe. The chocolate should melt with your body temperature in a smooth even manner. Poor quality chocolate will taste of grit, grease, wax or gum. Furthermore, fine chocolate should have a pleasant balance. It should not taste too sweet, nor too bitter. If the chocolate is flavored, the flavors should provide an undertone and not over power the chocolate taste. World class chocolate will not instantly disappear, nor will it leave an unpleasant after taste. The after taste of truly world class chocolate, rather, will slowly dissipate after you swallow.

3. The Tour

A. Stop 1 Neuhaus

The tour begins at the Neuhaus confectionery located in the Galeries St. Hubert. The store sits in its original location since the company’s founding. J.P. Cluysenaer constructed the Galeries St. Hubert in 1846. These 19th century precursor to the shopping mall were the first covered shopping area in the world. Advanced engineering techniques and the development of iron girders made their construction possible. Galeries St. Hubert houses three arcades, Galerie de la Reine (where Neuhaus is located), Galerie du Roi and Galerie des Princes. The neo-classical architecture conveys to visitors old world charm and elegance.

The Neuhaus chocolate company has the most interesting history of any of the great Belgian chocolate producers. Jean Neuhaus, a Swiss immigrant to Belgium, founded his company in 1857. Neuhaus, an apothecary by trade, originally established a shop in the Galerie de la Reine to sell medicine. In addition to medicine, he sold liquorice, marshmallows and chocolate bars. Over time, Neuhaus dedicated an increasing amount of time and shelf space to selling homemade candies, sweets, jellies and chocolate. However, Jean Neuhaus cannot be given the credit for creating the company we know today, he merely put it on the right track.

In 1912, Jean Neuhaus II, the grandson of Jean Neuhas, inherited the business. He continued his grandfather’s experimentations with confectionery and created the first chocolate-filled bonbons. We know these today as “pralines” and they were every bit as enjoyed then as they are today. Today Neuhaus produces more than 80 different varieties of its pralines. Neuhaus holds a Royal Warrant which means it is a regular supplier of chocolate to the royal court of Belgium.

B. Stop 2 Galler

Exiting Galleries St. Hubert follow the signs, and tourists, to the Grand Place. Galler, the second producer to visit, is located on Rue au Beurre 44 just inside the Grand Place. The Grand Place is located on the junction of the medieval roads to Bruges (Flanders), Cologne (Germany) and Paris (France). Originally the location was something akin to a desert caravanserai where merchants would camp, exchange wine, beer, wool and textiles before moving on to their final destination. The site became a permanent trading center as trade between the cities increased. By the 14th century the wealthiest merchants had constructed stone palaces, roughly creating the square we know today. The Town Hall was built in 1402 and completed 50 years later. The Guilds eventually took over the palaces and improved the facades by copying the Town Hall’s architectural style.

The Grand Place suffered in the 17th Century during the war with France. In 1695 Louis the XIV ordered the city, and square bombed and destroyed as a reprisal for his defeat at the Battle of Namur. The Town Hall and the Guild Houses were rebuilt in the original style. Today the buildings are protected because of a decree issued by a 19th century mayor of Brussels, Karl Buls. All the buildings, except the Town Hall, remain private property, but the owners cannot alter the original architectural style.

Galler, founded in 1976 by the Pierre and Jean Galler, is one of the few great Belgian chocolate producers to be founded by native Belgians. Galler, like Neuhaus, holds a Royal Warrant. The Royal Office grants a royal warrant to businesses and individuals who supply regular goods and services to the King and Queen. The warrant defines the privileges and duties bestowed on the warrant holder.

C. Stop 3 Leonidas

The third chocolate house to visit is the Leonidas shop on 34 Rue au Buerre, just down the street from the Grand Place. There are several Leonidas shops located throughout Brussels, this one was selected because of its convenient location. Leonidas is one of the best known great Belgian chocolate producers and it is unfortunate that the company has not established a flagship store front in Brussels worthy of its reputation.

Leonidas Kestekides was Greek but born in Istanbul at the turn of the century. At that time Istanbul was the capital of the Ottoman Empire. He left the Istanbul and immigrated to the United States possibly in 1906. He traveled to Belgium in 1910 and 1913 as a member of the Greek-American delegation to the World Fair hosted by Brussels and Ghent respectively. He entered his confectionary in the competition and his chocolate creations earned him a bronze medal.

Leonidas settled in Belgium after the exposition and founded the company we know today. Originally his chocolates were sold in tea rooms he established in Blankenberge, Ghent and Brussels.

Leonidas’ nephew, Basile Kestekides, placed Leonidas chocolates on the path that established the company we know today. In 1935 invented the “guillotine window” method of selling chocolates on the street. Today, many chocolate shops in Brussels sell their chocolate to passers by on the street through the window. Basile invented this method of distribution at the Leonidas shop located on Ansbach Laan. The term “guillotine window” refers to the fact that the windows slide up and down to open as opposed to outwards.

Leonidas today is the largest Belgian chocolate producer. The American influence of its founder is reflected in its mission statement of providing high quality chocolate to all the people.

D. Stop 4 Mary’s Chocolate

Return to the Grand Place and follow the sign out of the Grand Place to see the Manneken Pis located on rue du Chene. The Manneken Pis occupies the site of a medieval age fountain. The fountain deteriorated over time and in 1619 Belgium purchased the Manneken Pis from the sculptor Jerome Duquesnoy. No one knows for certain the inspiration for this work, but one common legend states it is modeled after a patriotic Belgian child who peed on Spanish soldiers walking below his window. Another sculptor, Daniel Raessens, built the pedestal for the statue.

The Manneken Pis was hidden from the French during the 1695 bombardment. The Manneken Pis was returned after the French left the city and an inscription was placed on its pedestal reading, “God has put me on a rock and now I am stronger than my enemies.”

In 1747 soldiers from Louis XV’s army stole the statue. Louis XV punished the soldiers and returned the statue to Brussels giving it an elegant costume. This began the tradition of dressing the costume on festive occasions that continues to this day. The City Museum of Brussels houses his more than 500 costumes.

In 1817 Antoinne Lycas stole the statue. He was caught and given a sentence of life imprisonment. By this time the statue needed repair. The sculptor Godecharle did the restoration and the statue was returned to its pedestal in 1818.

After taking the obligatory photo of the Manneken Pis follow the signs to the Parc du Bruxelles. This park was built in the French style and played an important role in the war for Belgian independence in 1830. However, its important role in Belgian history is lost on most tourists.

Located near the Parc du Bruxelles is Mary’s Chocolate house located at 73 Rue Royale. Mary’s Chocolate was founded in 1919 by Madam Marie Delluc. The original chocolate house was located at 126 Rue Royale, but the house moved in 1990 to offer a more spacious environment for its customers and enlarge the production facility. The original workshop and dÃ?©cor have been preserved which creates an elegant ambiance. Mary’s Chocolate reinforces its link to its founder, Madam Delluc, by continuing to use her original recipes.

King Leopold III, King Baudouin and King Albert II have each issued Mary’s Chocolate a Royale Warrant. King Albert II issued the most recent warrant in 1999. This warrant specifically charges Mary’s Chocolate with developing an international market for its chocolate.

Heads of State and foreign dignitaries frequent Mary’s Chocolate on official visits. The current United States President, George W. Bush, visited the shop while on an official visit to Brussels in 2005.

If the world revolves around chocolate then the Plac du Grande Sablon is the axis on which it turns. Within the square is located the flagship shops for world class chocolate producers Marcolini and Wittamer. Godiva is located there as well.

E. Stop 5 The Place du Grande Sablon: Marcolini, Wittamer and Godiva

Return the direction you came along Rue Royale and pass the Parc du Bruxelles. Pass Konigs Place and continue on to the Place du Grande Sablon. The Place du Grande Sablon in medieval times remained outside the main gate to enter the city. The square derives its name from the yellow clay earth, sablon, which paved the entrance. In 1450 the gothic Church of Our Lady of the Victories was constructed. The square became a fashionable place to live in the 19th century because of its proximity to the Duke’s palace and the construction of the Rue de la Regence. The small park across from the square, Le Petite Sablon, was built at this time as well. Today the square hosts a weekend antique market and many cafÃ?©s line its perimeter.

Marcolini and Wittamer are the two leading contenders for producing the best chocolate in Belgium and likely the world.

Marcolini boasts impressive credentials. In 1991 the company won best pastry in Belgium. In 1993 it was the vice-world champion of pastry. In 1995 it was the world champion. The secret to the company’s success is in the quality of the ingredients they use. The use criollo cocoa been, known for producing sweet chocolate with a long after taste. The company uses only natural ingredients, real vanilla and cocoa butter for example, and has a cocoa content pure piece of chocolate. Even after one day of sampling chocolate, the difference is obvious.

Wittamer rivals Marcolini and one may easily spend an entire afternoon walking from shop to shop sampling each producer’s chocolate unable to decide with certainty which produces the best chocolate. Each producer places a premium on quality and one will never go wrong with presenting a box of either Marocolini or Wittamer chocolates as a gift.

Henri Wittamer began his confectionary career as a baker in 1910 when he founded his shop at its present location. He founded the company as a bakery producing bread during the work week and sweet roles and brioches on the weekends. He was forced to diversify his business because of rationing during World War II. He chose to expand into confectionary.

After World War II, in 1965 to be exact, Henri Wittamer’s grandon, Henri-Paul Wittamer, graduated from COBA, the most prestigious school of confectionary, in Switzerland. He continues to manage the business to this day along with his sister and niece. Wittamer was granted a Royal Warrant in 2000.

A journalist asked the famed British mountaineer, George Mallory, on his departure to the Himalaya, what was his motivation to climb Mount Everest. George Mallory’s simple and accurate response is still quoted today, “Because it’s there.” All one can do is quote George Mallory when asked why visit Godiva, the final stop on the chocolate tour.

Godiva is by far the most inferior of the great chocolate producers of Belgium. However, “because it’s there,” located on the Place du Grande Sablon, and it has an international reputation, one cannot over look this producer. At the very minimum, sampling a Godiva chocolate will impress upon you the degree in which you have developed a taste for good chocolate.

Joseph Draps founded Godiva Chocolate in Brussels in 1926. He named the company after Lady Godiva, the wife of a British nobleman who, in 1040, rode naked on horseback through Coventry. The original shop was located on the Grand Place, but has since moved to the Place du Grande Sablon to establish a presence with the other great Belgian chocolate producers.

4. Conclusion

Brussels may not compete with its sisters to the north and south. However, no other city will offers the possibility of visiting its most important historical sites while sampling such a large number of the best chocolate producers in the world. Even if you do not find Brussels as beautiful as Paris, or its night life as exciting as Amsterdam, you will not leave Brussels wishing you had passed it by.