Taste Buffalo Architecture in a Day
Anyone interested in twentieth century architecture has heard of Frank Lloyd Wright. One Buffalo structure that has been undergoing a $23 million renovation is the Darwin Martin House, which is currently in the final phase of restoration. The Martin House is actually a complex of Wright-designed structures (the only complex of its kind the architect ever designed). The components include: Martin House (main house), Barton House (a house constructed for Martin’s sister), Carriage House (demolished, but scheduled for reconstruction), Conservatory (demolished, but scheduled for reconstruction), and Pergola (deteriorated, but scheduled for reconstruction). The Darwin Martin House Restoration Company (http://www.darwinmartinhouse.org) has been working on restoring the complex to its former grandeur. They offer tours, and you can reserve a docent by calling (716) 856-3858, or emailing tours@darwinmartinhouse.org.
After visiting the Darwin Martin House, Hertel Avenue offers many places to eat lunch, including the popular Romeo and Juliet’s Bakery CafÃ?©. Freshly made breads, salads, pizza, and panini sandwiches (made with their bread), espresso, and wine are on the menu at this excellent cafÃ?© located at 1292 Hertel Avenue (716-873-5730).
City Hall (65 Niagara Square) offers tours of the beautiful downtown Art Deco structure every weekday from noon until 1 o’clock. The building was completed in 1931 and is thirty-two stories high. On clear days, from the observation deck, visitors can view the entire city, as well as see the mist of Niagara Falls. The ornate detail on the building, both inside and outside, illustrates Buffalo’s significant local history, including themes of the Iroquois Nation, the building of the Erie Canal, and the relationship of the United States with Canada. In addition to the observation deck, visitors should not miss the Common Council Chamber, which is lit by a giant stained glass sunburst. It is one of the most beautiful rooms in downtown Buffalo.
After seeing downtown’s focal point, take a walk past the lovely flowers on Niagara Square, up Delaware Avenue, where you will run into Spot Coffee (227 Delaware Avenue, 716-332-2299), a great cafÃ?© with locally roasted coffee, and excellent, inexpensive lunch. Salads and sandwiches, in addition to delectable pastries, are on the menu at this funky establishment. Be sure to sit and people watch, especially if you visit on a weekday.
After visiting downtown, a great way to round out your afternoon is to head north to Elmwood and Forest Avenues on Buffalo’s historic west side. Another building people shouldn’t miss is the H. H. Richardson Complex. Commonly known as the Buffalo Psychiatric Center, the spacious grounds of Richardson’s Romanesque masterpiece were designed by America’ premier landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmsted. The imposing Richardson Complex lords over Forest Avenue. The structure is absolutely enormous and is completely vacant. It is on the National Register of Historic Places and is an endangered building owned by the State of New York. Presently, the state is shoring up the building to slow its deterioration, due to a lawsuit brought against the state by people in the neighborhood closest to the building. Buffalonians are hopeful that this building will be found another use (ideas have included a school, hotel, shops, etc.), but for now it is vacant and can be seen only from the outside. Campaign for Buffalo History, Architecture, and Culture (http://greaterbuffalo.blogs.com/) does excellent, informative tours if you book in advance (716-884-3138). After standing in awe of this building, take a short drive down Richmond Avenue and admire the large, renovated Victorian homes that line the Avenue, as it was once known.
All of this touring will have you tired and hungry, so thank goodness you will end on Elmwood Avenue, home to many excellent worldwide cuisines. A fairly new restaurant that has an extensive Middle Eastern menu is Falafel Bar (1009 Elmwood Avenue, 716-884-0444). Plates come overflowing with hummus, falafel, grape leaves, and many other flavors of the Mediterranean. For those seeking a more traditional taste of Buffalo, check out nearby Cole’s (1104 Elmwood Avenue, 716-886-1449), which features great American cuisine and offers what are perhaps the Queen City’s most delicious wings.
The best times to visit Buffalo and get a feeling for the city is in the summer and early fall. This time of year brings gardeners, walkers, boaters, tourists, and plenty of others out to enjoy the sun, warmth, and brilliant fall foliage in one of America’s most forested cities.
Anyone interested in architecture will want to stay at the Mansion on Delaware Avenue (http://www.mansionondelaware.com), located at 414 Delaware Avenue (716-886-3300). This prestigious property has been featured in Architectural Digest and will astound you with its architectural detail and restoration. It began as a private residence, commissioned in the 1860s, fell into disrepair, and was resurrected in the past few years as this historic hotel. Visit their website for rates and e-specials.
Escape to Buffalo and be pleasantly surprised by the beauty of the houses and buildings that line its streets. Dine in one of the many fantastic restaurants. Enjoy the Olmsted designed park system. You will want to come back and see more. Bring a friend. Spread the word.
