Texas Backroads: Crockett, TX

Folks in Crockett, Texas live on the edge. Not so much viscerally or psychologically as literally. Native Texans understand the Texas Tourism slogan better than most visitors: “Texas, it’s like a whole ‘other country!” Folks from “over ‘yonder” might see Texas as just another star in a field of fifty. But Texas truly is much like a country, geographically and sociologically. East Texas is populated with folks who identify with the Deep South, confederate traditions and southern ways of thinking abound. Folks who live beyond the Piney Woods are more western than southern. There’s a fuzzy geographical line separating pine forests from prairie farmland. The line curves out from Texarkana, sweeps down along the eastern side of Interstate 45 and curls back towards Houston. Crockett sits about half way down that line bumped right up against it.

Whether a traveler is retracing the historic El Camino Real through Texas or simply looking for an alternative to city lights, Crockett makes a nice stopping place. There’s a mix of Southern hospitality and Western spirit in the folks who call Crockett home. The town has enough to keep someone interested but not so much that travelers can’t take a bit of time to relax and enjoy the slower pace of country life.

Located at the intersections of several highways, Crockett isn’t more than an hour or so from the Lufkin / Nacogdoches area to the East or I-45 to the West. Texas Highway 21, the route of El Camino Real, comes down from Nacogdoches and passes through the city on its way to Central Texas. U.S. 287 comes into town from the north then heads south east to cross U.S. 59 and end up on U.S. 69 down towards Beaumont.

Crockett was the fifth city to be incorporated during the days of the Republic. It’s named for the famous Davy Crockett who traveled through on his way to the Alamo. Crockett is the county seat for HoustonCounty, the first county established under the Republic of Texas. In the 1870’s the Great Northern Railroad came to town with tracks from Houston through Crockett and up to Longview. A depot was constructed in 1909. Today the depot is home to the Houston County History Visitor’s Center and Museum. Find the old depot by heading south on 19 from the square, take a right on Bell, then take a left on first at the railroad tracks. Hours of operation are limited, check with the Crockett Area Chamber of Commerce.

The Square in Crockett is a good starting place altogether. The current county courthouse, built in 1940, is centerpiece to Crockett’s town square. There’s still quite a bit of daily business conducted around the square so visitors get a feeling of yesterday as they stroll the sidewalks. Tourists can taste the flavor of Crockett as well, at the Moosehead CafÃ?©. The Moosehead, on the north side of the square, serves up delicious platefuls of country vittles. Diners enjoy their meal surrounded by memorabilia and pictures beneath a huge stuffed moose head, the restaurant’s namesake. A few famous folks have stopped in at the Moosehead over the years. There’s a signed photo of George and Laura Bush behind the counter.

A couple doors down from the Moosehead there’s Lee’s China Inn, or for diners looking for something a bit more upscale Just off the square on Goliad there’s Tchoupitoulas Steak House, located in a historic two-story stone building. Another great choice for dinner is Camp Street CafÃ?©.

Camp Street CafÃ?© and Store is located in a building built in the 1930’s. The old building was home to a store, a barber shop, and pool hall before it fell vacant for decades. It was brought back to life in 1998 by Guy and Pip Gillette, Western musicians. There’s good food, weekly live entertainment, and all kinds of interesting products for sale from Western Music CD’s to cook books to T-shirts. Camp Street’s owners have provided one of the best websites about Crockett at www.campstreetcafe.com. Folks learn about the CafÃ?© and the Gillette’s music and can find much more information about what Crockett has to offer visitors. Camp Street can be found by going a block west on Houston from the square and then a block north on Third.

Crockett has several historic Bed and Breakfasts that offer a lengthier introduction to Crockett. The Lantana House, an old two-story farm house built in 1902, has two homey rooms available. For Victorian flair there’s the Warfield House, a beautiful home with five bedrooms, a hot tub and an outdoor pool. The Warfield House was built in 1897. It’s been completely restored as one of Crockett’s best places to stay the night. Crockett has four motor inns including a Holiday Inn Express all located on Loop 304.

History is what folks did. But what is there to do around Crockett? Plenty! Especially if one enjoys the outdoors. DavidCrockettNational Forest, the largest National Forest in Texas, offers lots of recreation possibilities. To the east out Highway Seven a short half-hour’s drive there’s Ratcliff Lake Recreation Area, one of the best kept secrets of East Texas. On the site of an old mill pond, Ratcliff Lake Recreation Area was built in 1936 by the Civilian Conservation Corps. The small lake is a great place to fish or swim. There’s a massive log building which houses showers for swimmers. Boat, canoe and paddle boats are available for rent. A small concession open during the summer provides snacks, burgers, tackle and bait. There’s camping around the lake including RV hookups. There are several excellent hiking trails around the lake and through the woodlands nearby. Ratcliff is operated by the National Forest Service. Fees are very reasonable.

Up State 21 from Crockett about twenty miles there’s Mission TejasState Park. The park is another CCC project, built in 1934, now operated by the State of Texas. Besides having camping and picnic facilities, hiking trails and a fishing hole, the park has “a commemorative representation of Mission San Francisco de los Tejas, the first Spanish mission in the province of Texas, which was established in 1690.” (http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/mission_tejas/) The restored Rice Family Log Home is also located in the park.

On the other side of Crockett there’s HoustonCountyLake. Crockett Family Resort is located there. The resort offers everything from camping and cabins to all types of recreation, fishing, swimming and group facilities. More information about the lake and resort is available from their website, www.crockettresort.com.

Of course, back in town one must not forget the great entertainment over at Camp Street on the weekends. Through out the year Crockett hosts festivals and rodeos as well. There’s the Fiddler’s Fest, a Blue Grass celebration and the Peanut Festival. Check with the Chamber of Commerce for more information on these festivals. They are a great time to head for Crockett, when all the locals are out and ready to give visitors a big Texas welcome.

Find country cooking, live entertainment or a quiet afternoon at a good fishing hole where the South meets the West along the King’s highway. There’s plenty to explore in Houston county making Crockett an excellent Texas destination.

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