The Airborne Museum in the Netherlands
The history-lover in me continues to be drawn to places where history actually happened. Consequently, I was at the Airborne Museum near Arnhem in the Netherlands. Rather than a victory for the Allies, the story here was one of failure, making the sacrifices all the more heart-wrenching.
In September of 1944, more than ten thousand British and Polish airborne troops fought in and around Arnhem. Their objective was to take the Rhine bridge as part of a larger, overall plan known as Operation Market Garden. “Market” was the code name for the airborne actions, and “Garden” was the code name for the ground troops.
Only six hundred men managed to reach the bridge. While waiting for reinforcements, they fought for four days, holding the northern camp. The remainder of the force, however didn’t succeed in reaching them. Like the movie title, it truly was A Bridge Too Far. The group held out for five more days at Oosterbeek, before finally making their way across the Rhine to Allied held ground. Of the original troops, only 2,293 made it safely back to England.
During the battle the Hartenstein Hotel in Osterbeek was the headquarters of the British divisional commander, Major-General R. E. Urquhart. The Airborne Museum now occupies the building. Inside you can follow the events of the battle as they transpired, from the air landings, the march to the bridge, and fierce fighting in Arnhem and Oosterbeek, to the crossing of the river.
Visitors enter the back door of the mansion. After paying an entrance fee, the first stop is a large room where an audiovisual presentation
explains Operation Market Garden. Although I already knew the story, a refresher lesson was fitting, if somewhat saddening.
After this introduction, you continue through rooms filled with display cases, over-sized photographs, and memorabilia from the period. Uniforms, equipment, and weapons, from both sides of the conflict, make up a large share of the collection.
One case held bits of discarded parachutes, sewn into clothing. Since parachutes were no doubt numerous, local residents wisely turned them into garments and household items. For some reason, I found the idea of turning parachutes into clothing, simply fascinating.
Another display held the personal belongings of a young soldier who was wounded, then hidden from the enemy by a local family. It’s believed about 500 men were concealed from the Germans by civilians. The Dutch showed great courage and resourcefulness in helping the men, offering them whatever secretive shelter they could devise. The risk was enormous, and their actions inspiring.
Both life size and small dioramas are a major feature of the museum, especially in the basement. Sound effects bring additional realism to the
scenes. Much as I appreciated the dioramas in the lower level, I couldn’t help thinking of the wounded soldiers who became very familiar with this same basement. When the beds ran out, they lay suffering on the cold, hard floor, waiting their turn for treatment.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
After two hours, it was time to find the bus stop for my return journey. I hardly noticed the lingering rain. My imagination was working overtime, visualizing thousands of parachutes dotting the sky, carrying so many men to their ultimate fate.�¯�¿�½
Each year on the first Saturday in September, the Dutch hold the Airborne March, one of the world’s largest one-day marching events. Meant to commemorate those who fought and died in the region, those attending are accompanied by British and Polish military veterans and participants from over a dozen different countries.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
The routes are laid out through the several villages of the municipality of Renkum in the Netherlands, along the battlefields and drop zones of the operation Market Garden of September 1944. Start and finish are in the park Hartenstein (behind the Airborne Museum).�¯�¿�½
In addition, the Airborne Cemetery is in the vicinity of the museum. The Airborne Museum is open year round, but call ahead or check their
website for the exact hours. You can get a bus from the main station in Arnhem, which stops very near the museum.�¯�¿�½
