The Search for Graveyards in Edinburgh, Scotland
I’m not sure what the attraction is – probably because Edinburgh is so old. “Old” in an eerie kind of way. “Old” in the sense that the churches are decked out with more ornate carvings of angels and saints than I could ever hope to see in a lifetime. “Old” in the sense that even the graveyards I chanced upon all have tombstones that tell a lot about the culture and its townsfolk.
I was fortunate to have a good friend with me – Stephen – not only one of the most knowledgeable individuals I’ve ever met, but he also works for the city planning commission which sets and maintains high standards for how Edinburgh and it’s surrounds suburbs are maintained and protected. Let me tell you, this guy “knows”.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
So there we were – my buddy and I and our respective wives. My daughter was off exploring not too far away. Stephen walked up to a tombstone of some long-forgotten soul. “âÂ?¦Check this out” he said. (Actually, it was more like “Check this OOT” – Scottish accent you know). It was a tombstone with a skull and crossbones on it.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
“What was this guyâÂ?¦a pirate?” I askedÃ?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
“Actually”, replied Stephen, “The skull and crossbones represent the skull and femur of the deceased.”
And there in lies the tale. Apparently in ancient times, when someone died, the family would take the skull (obviously, this was some time after the body had decomposed) and femur bone and place them in a respectable location in the hose – up on the mantle of the fireplace or somewhere. This went on for years and years until it was decided that families really shouldn’t be doing this type of thing. City elders then decided that it was better to carve a skull and crossbones on the tombstone instead rather than displace part of the skeleton.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
Continuing or visit I noticed that several burial spots looked like they had had a type of tombstone of legs – very similar to a coffee table (albeit one made of marble). Again, Stephen the answer man came to the rescue. He explained to me that a long time ago, it was perfectly normal for the family to leave the body of the deceased lying “in state” placed out in the open under this horizontal tomb. This type of thing went one for years and was perfectly normal. Made for a great family outing apparently: “come everyone, let’s go visit grandma!” And the family would make a day of it – bring sandwiches, etc.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
Over time though, kids being kids, some of the more mischievous would steal the body and lace it on a person’s porch of steal the head, etc. Result; no more exposed bodies.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
And lest you think that these traditions are just things that happened a long time ago”, consider this: a large percentage of Edinburgh’s nearly 12,000 hheadstones were laid done on their sides to prevent acts of vandalism and also as a safety to hazard. As recent as 6 years ago, a headstone toppled over and crushed a young child. But the move has been branded “over the top” by critics who claim there is no need for the drastic action, which risks upsetting families and destroying the appearance of the city’s historic cemeteries. The same action has taken place in other towns but Edinburgh has enforced this decision the most.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
It’s not for me to say. These graveyards are no less….”haunting” I suppose just because some of the older tombstones have been laid down.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
Graveyards aren’t just popular with those of us curious to catch a glimpse of a ghost. They are also popular locations with (although not quite so much now) drug addicts. Edinburgh went as far as placing Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½needle boxes” at some of the more frequented graveyards to deter the bad habit of just leave dirty needles lying around.
Along with these graveyards are some fantastic urban legends. All the names escape me now, several weeks after our return, but “grave-robbing” was big business in Edinburgh way back when. Surgery was still in it’s infancy and the study of the human body was a chief pursuit at medical schools. Because the schools needed Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½fresh meat’ so to speak, many townsfolk took to robbing graves to make a decent living. Some individuals just got bored with the whole grave-robbing gig and decided to whack a few unsuspecting citizens instead. But THAT’S a tale for another time.Ã?¯Ã?¿Ã?½
There are quite a few graveyards in and around Edinburgh, and more than a couple are famous. The website: http://www.headstones.fsnet.co.uk gives a great accounting of the most famous in Edinburgh in addition to some noteworthy souls who currently call it home. Another great resource is: www.electricscotland.com/history/Edinburgh.�¯�¿�½
And on an even more commercial note, you may want to check out Edinburgh’s “City of the Dead: Haunted Graveyard Tour” (The Tron Church, 122 High Street, tel: 0131-255-9044). This just happens to be Scotland’s most acclaimed graveyard visit. Cost about $12.00 a head. The “City of the Dead’ tour takes you to some real ‘haunted graveyards’ and other locations full of reported supernatural activiity. But don’t take it from me – check out their website at: www.blackhart.uk.com.
Auld Reekie Tours (www.auldreekietours.com) and The Cadies & Witchery Tours (www.witcherytours.com) are full-fledged graveyard tours per se, but they do staop and one or two graveyards along the way. Check ’em out and don’t say you haven’t been warned.
You can tell me all about it. When it comes to graveyards, i much prefer to be a visitor and not a longterm resident.
